You don't necessarily have to get an X ring. I changed to an EK Chain 520 SRO-5 O-Ring Chain last year and no longer had to re-adjust the chain every hundred miles. It only cost me about $43.

I got caught in the tighten-and-measure-tension-on-centerstand mistake loop when I first got the bike. I'm sure that contributed, but I realized the chain on the bike when I got it was basic Bikemaster equivalent standard chain. Even if the EK is just ok, a just-ok brand-name o-ring chain is still better and more economical than a generic-quality standard roller chain.

So have I decided for my own personal sake...

So I've ridden quite a few more miles.  My chain got loose again.  I tightened it.  Less than 100 miles later, it's loose enough to justify another tightening.  I measured 16 links which should be exactly 10" on my 520 chain.  It came out to 10 1/8" so I've got a little stretching going on.  Does this warrant a new chain?  (I might get one anyway to save money on chain wax)
But this small amount of stretch doesn't seem to be enough to make me constantly tighten my chain.  I'm thinking it could be the rear wheel adjustment nuts moving.  I'll measure the length and see if it changes.
Maybe I'm not tightening the bolts enough.  I don't have a torque wrench so everything has been to the torque of "good 'n tight." 

::sigh::  I'm just paranoid that something is fatiguing and will one day snap.  Hope not. 

The chain adjustment shouldn't go "out" in only 100 miles...

Something is wrong...you must figure out what is wrong...

A stretch of 1/8" over 10 inches is A LOT!!!

I suspect you have a cheap sh-t chain, and need to replace it...

With that much stretch in the chain...the chain needs replacing...

I doubt that the rear axle is "slipping" forward...there are the chain adjusters in the swing arms to prevent the axle from moving forward..

You really should use a torque wrench...you can "rent" one for free from Advance auto.

But making the axle nut "good and tight" should work just fine, and the axle should not slip forward because of the chain adjusters preventing forward movement..

Buy a quality chain...like a D.I.D. x ring...yes expensive..(over $100)..but you're troubles will be over so it's worth it..

Cookie

Quote from: cpaiin on July 26, 2015, 03:10:53 PM
So I've ridden quite a few more miles.  My chain got loose again.  I tightened it.  Less than 100 miles later, it's loose enough to justify another tightening.  I measured 16 links which should be exactly 10" on my 520 chain.  It came out to 10 1/8" so I've got a little stretching going on.  Does this warrant a new chain?  (I might get one anyway to save money on chain wax)
But this small amount of stretch doesn't seem to be enough to make me constantly tighten my chain.  I'm thinking it could be the rear wheel adjustment nuts moving.  I'll measure the length and see if it changes.
Maybe I'm not tightening the bolts enough.  I don't have a torque wrench so everything has been to the torque of "good 'n tight." 

::sigh::  I'm just paranoid that something is fatiguing and will one day snap.  Hope not.

Make sure you didn't loose spacer 9 when you changed your chain and sprockets.  Will result in wheel bearing failure causing constant loosening of axle and eventual wheel lockup.

http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche_image_popup.asp?fveh=2102&section=92708&year=2001&make=SUZUKI&category=Motorcycles&dc=3378&name=REAR+WHEEL

Thanks for the input guys. 
I'm taking your advice cookie and buying the D.I.D. 520VX2 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068FTTPI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
Should get it Friday so I'll be taking it easy till then.

gsJack, I think I still have spacer 9 (I have a vague recollection of checking for it last time I took my wheel off) but I'll take the time to verify when I replace my chain.

So the new chain comes with a clip type connecting link.  My current chain has this same type of link and it seems to be on their nice and tight, but do you know of any specific instructions on installing these?

Oh no..... connector link war incoming!!

DID is better than most others. In the mid 90's I almost did what you're doing now. I found Tsubaki's to be the worst, and DID O rings to be better even though they were not as good as tsubaki's on paper.
Anyway I never managed to get a chain I was very happy with. I contemplated Belt drive. a 1" wide Gates Poly chain GT2 will easily take the GS power/torque and smile and ask for more. They put 22mm wide 14mm pitch on Vulcan 800's.

Anyway I never went on to make nothing for belt drive, but the clutch push rod is the biggest obstacle. Its less than 2.25" away and the smallest 14mm pulley is 4.9". Need to custom make a 4.4" pulley at a minimum. Which scootworks.com does.

Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: cpaiin on July 27, 2015, 08:32:52 PM
Thanks for the input guys. 
I'm taking your advice cookie and buying the D.I.D. 520VX2 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068FTTPI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
Should get it Friday so I'll be taking it easy till then.

gsJack, I think I still have spacer 9 (I have a vague recollection of checking for it last time I took my wheel off) but I'll take the time to verify when I replace my chain.

So the new chain comes with a clip type connecting link.  My current chain has this same type of link and it seems to be on their nice and tight, but do you know of any specific instructions on installing these?

Your Amazon link is for a 108 link chain. Stock GS500 takes a 110 link chain?

I replaced my sprockets to 14 front 39 back.
There used to be some website that showed the correct chain length to buy when using different sprockets.  I don't think that website is up anymore but someone took a screenshot and uploaded it to this forum somewhere.  Too lazy to look right now
Also, my current chain seemed a bit long when I first put it on (andwith all this stretching, my adjustors are getting close to the limit).

BUT GOOD NEWS!!!  I got my new chain today!  Days earlier than expected.  Just in time too because I was planning on tightening my chain yet again.  I'm going to measure the total chain length and see how much it has stretched.

I'll have to browse around and see if anyone has posted some general instructions on installing a master link. 

Has anyone ever contacted D.I.D customer support about bad chains?  I dunno if its worth the effort, but my current chain is also D.I.D. and has "lasted" less than a year and 1000 miles.  I'm guessing it has stretched about an inch in total length.  But, maybe I should just take responsibility for buying a ring-less chain (yup, no O-Ring, X-Wing, Y-Wing, or Z-Ring).  I'll inspect the chain and see if there is any wear an tear between links.

Wow, no rings at all? That might explain some of your problems....with no orings, any dirt around your chain was able to work it's way in and start wearing and tearing away. Normally chains like that are used for racing applications (used hard and then tossed in the trash).

Some older members can verify: drive chains use to never have any orings. And if you wanted it to last for a thousand miles you really had to baby it (actually just maintain it on a VERY regular basis).

Not sure what website you're referring to cpaiin but I've calculated a lot of center distances for different sprocket sizes and chain lengths for the GS and 14/39T works with either a 108 or 110 link chain:

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=44849.msg502495#msg502495

Like Rich said my early 80's 400cc Hondas came with standard unsealed chains but they were 530 wide, 50% wider than the GSs 520 chains.  I used the same for replacements and they lasted about 10k miles.  My 82 CB750 came with a 530 0-ring chain.  I've never cleaned a chain, just spray on lube and keep adjusted from then until now.

I've used only clip type master links for 30 years and 400k miles.   Back then the loose side plate was a slip fit on the pins and you jast slipped it on and put on the retaining clip.  Now they are a heavy press fit and I squeezed them on with a large arc joint pliers but the last couple I had to use a c-clamp with a small socket over the pin to squeeze them on.  Important thing is to get them on far enough so the clip will seat properly in the grooves.  Check by putting the large end of the clip slot over a pin and sliding it towards small end to make sure link plate is on far enough, check at both pins.  Then when installing the clip make sure the closed end is leading on the moving chain, open end trailing.

Its horribly hard to clean a chain really. There are some "lube cleaners".
I suspect they lube the dirt, and if you're lucky it flies off when riding.
Cool.
Buddha.

I got the new chain on.  Here's to hoping it solves the issue 

I measured the old chain: first to last pin to pin length is 69 7/16" or 69.4375"
If I'm doing the math correctly, 110 links of type 520 chain (which has a pitch of 5/8") should be exactly (5/8)*110 = 68.75" so my chain has stretched 0.6875"

I'll be putting about 150 miles on it by the end of this week so that should be a good test. 

Quote from: cpaiin on July 28, 2015, 05:45:11 PM
I replaced my sprockets to 14 front 39 back.
There used to be some website that showed the correct chain length to buy when using different sprockets.  I don't think that website is up anymore but someone took a screenshot and uploaded it to this forum somewhere.  Too lazy to look right now ...

Maybe this will help:
www.gearingcommander.com

There's a table on the bottom of the page (Relative sprocket & chain wear due to drive train changes). 

Quote from: cpaiin on July 28, 2015, 10:09:01 PM
I got the new chain on.  Here's to hoping it solves the issue 

I measured the old chain: first to last pin to pin length is 69 7/16" or 69.4375"
If I'm doing the math correctly, 110 links of type 520 chain (which has a pitch of 5/8") should be exactly (5/8)*110 = 68.75" so my chain has stretched 0.6875"

I'll be putting about 150 miles on it by the end of this week so that should be a good test. 

Chains don't `stretch` in the true sense of the word, they elongate over time due to wear between the pins and rollers.

And have another look at those figures

0.6875" is just under 17.5mm!!...has it really worn that much?

Please keep your new chain clean.

The manual recommends to clean and re lube every 1000km...or every 600 miles.

I can't  remember factors of 600 so I clean and lube every 500... If I'm on the road, I'll let it go to 600 or so, but then do the next clean sooner.

O ring or x ring chains are sealed, so they stay lubed pretty well...but it is the dirt which wears them out and caused stretching..  But the lubing also increases chain life.

The idea with or ring x ring etc...is you pay more up front, but get way mor elife overall, so they are actually more economical.

Cleaning a chain is easy and fun.

Just get a small shoebox size plastic container.  Put in a few ounces of kerosene.  Put bike on center stand.  Slide a piece of corrugated cardboard under rear wheel and chain area...or use a pizza box.  Slide the plastic container under chain.  Get a soft, 1/2" wide artist paint brush.   Just keep slathering on kerosene, and bushing softly.  Lots of kero!  Work the brush over each link, and work your way around the whole chain.  Start at the master link...so you know when you're all the way around.  The dirt will just wash off, and drop into the plastic container...

After only 500 miles, the chain will not be all that dirty anyway...after brushing with kero, it will look as clean as new.  Wipe down softly with a paper towel to dry...let it sit some time to dry off completely...

Spray the chain with your favorite lube....I like the spray made by Honda.

Use the power of the spray thru the little red nozzle tube to get the lube into the chain, and to power off any crap you missed with the brush...Let it shoot thru the chain and drip onto your cardboard.  Lightly wipe of any excess with paper shop towels.

Get the lube into the center of the chain, and on to the outer sides of the links.

Let this sit for a while...The lube which is thin like water when you first spray it on, will harden somewhat to the consistency of white grease...

My first OEM (Regina) chain went over 24,000 miles.  It was still good but I replaced it anyway.  My second chain threw out an o ring...at about 16,000 so I replaced the chain.

Now I have  D.I.D.....8000 miles on that, it looks brand new.  I've only done two "tightenings"...each one was a 1/12 turn of the adjusters.

(or you can do nothing at all...and go 1/2 million miles as per Dr, Jack!)


Cookie

The experts say that 'stretch"  of 1% is the limit for O ring type chains, and 2% is the limit for non o ring types...

So this chain is within limits for a non o ring chain...but beyond limits for an o ring type.

But I think the whole point of this exercise is the rate of wear...that the chain is continuing to wear out quickly, and needs constant re tightening...

Also non o ring chains need constant cleaning, in order to last...and they still don't last very long.

If the new chain doesn't solve the problem...then at least you can look somewhere else for what's wrong.   But knowing the old chain is non o ring...the evidence points to that being the issue.


Cookie

Quote from: sledge on July 29, 2015, 04:38:11 AM

Quote from: cpaiin on July 28, 2015, 10:09:01 PM
I got the new chain on.  Here's to hoping it solves the issue 

I measured the old chain: first to last pin to pin length is 69 7/16" or 69.4375"
If I'm doing the math correctly, 110 links of type 520 chain (which has a pitch of 5/8") should be exactly (5/8)*110 = 68.75" so my chain has stretched 0.6875"

I'll be putting about 150 miles on it by the end of this week so that should be a good test. 

Chains don't `stretch` in the true sense of the word, they elongate over time due to wear between the pins and rollers.

And have another look at those figures

0.6875" is just under 17.5mm!!...has it really worn that much?

Quote from: cpaiin on July 27, 2015, 08:32:52 PM................gsJack, I think I still have spacer 9 (I have a vague recollection of checking for it last time I took my wheel off) but I'll take the time to verify when I replace my chain.....................

?

Don't tell anyone, but...  I didn't check.
I'm pretty confident they're in there.  It's such a hassle getting the wheel off and back on. 
But maybe my slack attitude is one of the causes of my seemingly endless issues.

.... take the time and check! ... better peace of mind and knowledge!