So I bought some from an Ebay seller that had a decent rep, someone on here told me they used them.

my levers: http://imgur.com/a/9i3GK

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131444255446?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The switch would not fit.  So, I taped it into place, wrapped it, and electrical taped it to the underside electronic cable.  Now I don't need the clutch pull to start it, so whatever.  I'll just let the next buyer know that when I give him the screws and old levers.

Gear switching is so easy now.  The clutch pull before was just laughable for me, the friction zone was in the last 1/2" pull of the clutch and it was bothering me, this made quick shifting easy.

Speaking of clunky shifting - I was thinking about doing my first oil change (I've had the bike for 500 miles).  I checked the oil, and it's all the way on the "L".  Is this something I should worry about?  There is no oil slick where I park my bike (every single day).  There is no real oil on the underside of the engine except for a very thin film that I can wipe right off, it's loaded with dirt and grime.  Dad (retired mechanic) told me not to worry about it.

I bought some synthetic and I'm going to add it in when the bike cools off.  Is this the right procedure? 

There are many threads, debates and info about how much (or how little) the GS burns oil.  Check the oil often and always have some around for top-offs.

Idk if there is an exact proper procedure but about once a week (or more often depending on how much I ride) before I head out I put the bike on the center stand and check the oil.

Those levers look like the ones I have.  My clutch switch didn't fit ALL the way back in, but I reassembled it as if it did, and just left the screws out a thread or two.  Trying to force it in only made the clutch lever get stuck...  I checked the screws every ride for the first few weeks, worried they may wiggle loose.  Nothing yet.

I have to agree, when I installed shorty levers the clutch engagement felt perfect.  I love them!

The proper way to check the oil level (for those of us who are really anal):

Warm up the bike completely...to full operating temperature (ride around town or whatever)

Park the bike and turn off the engine..  On a level surface, on the side stand..

Wait a good 5 minutes for all the oil to drain down into the pan

Unscrew the dip stick and wipe clean.

Drop the dip stick into its hole...but do not screw in!  Just place it onto the hole..

Hold the bike level...so it just about balances left and right..hold it there for say 15 seconds so the oil can grab onto the dip stick...

Let the bike back down onto its side stand

Lift out the dipstick and check the level.

As long as the level is between the two marks...you are OK...

If it is getting to the lower mark..maybe add a few ounces of oil and repeat....

You don't want to start out on a long ride with the level already low...

Again...check when he oil is hot, not cold...(hot oil is "bigger" than cold oil!)

Bike needs to be level front to back and left to right...on its own wheels..not on center stand..

Do no overfill the engine oil!!!

Yes, everybody has their own way of checking oil...which works for them...whatever...


Cookie

Quote from: kharper4289 on July 17, 2015, 11:34:30 AM
So I bought some from an Ebay seller that had a decent rep, someone on here told me they used them.

my levers: http://imgur.com/a/9i3GK

http://www.ebay.com/itm/131444255446?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The switch would not fit.  So, I taped it into place, wrapped it, and electrical taped it to the underside electronic cable.  Now I don't need the clutch pull to start it, so whatever.  I'll just let the next buyer know that when I give him the screws and old levers.

Gear switching is so easy now.  The clutch pull before was just laughable for me, the friction zone was in the last 1/2" pull of the clutch and it was bothering me, this made quick shifting easy.

Speaking of clunky shifting - I was thinking about doing my first oil change (I've had the bike for 500 miles).  I checked the oil, and it's all the way on the "L".  Is this something I should worry about?  There is no oil slick where I park my bike (every single day).  There is no real oil on the underside of the engine except for a very thin film that I can wipe right off, it's loaded with dirt and grime.  Dad (retired mechanic) told me not to worry about it.

I bought some synthetic and I'm going to add it in when the bike cools off.  Is this the right procedure?

Wow neat!! I never knew that was the proper way... won't ever forget 

Or, bike cold on centerstand, plywood shim under front tire (if your anal), check oil level, ride...

Quote from: twocool on July 17, 2015, 06:11:42 PM


The proper way to check the oil level (for those of us who are really anal):

Warm up the bike completely...to full operating temperature (ride around town or whatever)

Park the bike and turn off the engine..  On a level surface, on the side stand..

Wait a good 5 minutes for all the oil to drain down into the pan

Unscrew the dip stick and wipe clean.

Drop the dip stick into its hole...but do not screw in!  Just place it onto the hole..

Hold the bike level...so it just about balances left and right..hold it there for say 15 seconds so the oil can grab onto the dip stick...

Let the bike back down onto its side stand

Lift out the dipstick and check the level.

As long as the level is between the two marks...you are OK...

If it is getting to the lower mark..maybe add a few ounces of oil and repeat....

You don't want to start out on a long ride with the level already low...

Again...check when he oil is hot, not cold...(hot oil is "bigger" than cold oil!)

Bike needs to be level front to back and left to right...on its own wheels..not on center stand..

Do no overfill the engine oil!!!

Yes, everybody has their own way of checking oil...which works for them...whatever...


Cookie

lol!

But actually putting a shim under the front tire, and not the rear...would not be anal enough..(if you're anal!)  BTW...my bike naturally sits back on the rear tire when on the center stand...maybe my tail pack is heavy?

It would result in the front of the bike being higher than the rear, by the thickness of the plywood...(If you're anal about it)

So to use the center stand, you'd have to slip equal thickness shims under the front AND the rear tires!  (If you're gonna be anal)

Also, for some reason, when on the center stand, my bike leans slightly to the right...


Honestly....you can check the oil, on the center stand, or by holding the bike about level...on any surface which is sort of level....it is not all that critical...

A few ounces of oil, more or less is not gong to matter one bit!

So don't be anal!

Cookie

Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on July 18, 2015, 05:24:44 AM
Or, bike cold on centerstand, plywood shim under front tire (if your anal), check oil level, ride...

Quote from: twocool on July 17, 2015, 06:11:42 PM


The proper way to check the oil level (for those of us who are really anal):

Warm up the bike completely...to full operating temperature (ride around town or whatever)

Park the bike and turn off the engine..  On a level surface, on the side stand..

Wait a good 5 minutes for all the oil to drain down into the pan

Unscrew the dip stick and wipe clean.

Drop the dip stick into its hole...but do not screw in!  Just place it onto the hole..

Hold the bike level...so it just about balances left and right..hold it there for say 15 seconds so the oil can grab onto the dip stick...

Let the bike back down onto its side stand

Lift out the dipstick and check the level.

As long as the level is between the two marks...you are OK...

If it is getting to the lower mark..maybe add a few ounces of oil and repeat....

You don't want to start out on a long ride with the level already low...

Again...check when he oil is hot, not cold...(hot oil is "bigger" than cold oil!)

Bike needs to be level front to back and left to right...on its own wheels..not on center stand..

Do no overfill the engine oil!!!

Yes, everybody has their own way of checking oil...which works for them...whatever...


Cookie

Just disconnect the clutch switch from inside the headlight, then reconnect the two bullet connectors inside the headlight. Then take the clutch safety switch and drop it in the bin, because it is rubbish.