First impressions of the K&N filter and re-jetting:

It seems to rev quicker, sitting in neutral. This change assists in smoother shifts, both up and down. Acceleration seems better above 6,000, and worse below that, weaker down low. I'm not using the restrictor, got 40 pilots and 127.5 mains, 3 turns out on idle air. I'll try and pull one of the two washers off the needles and see how it goes.

Won't pull any washers afterall. Checked the plugs. It's still about as lean as it was before the K&N & jets. Has anyone else found this to be the case? I'm thinking maybe 130 mains. :dunno:

i put the pod on my (former) gs, used the 37.5's, and 140's also had drilled the exhaust. hella quick

Thanks, yama. I'm going to try my old filter back in it for now until I can get some bigger mains.

Air box pod and slip on... 127.5 will work... below 6K is more needle. Lift that with a #2 washer. Also check float level... you may be low.. 1 mm or 2 makes a noticeable diff in that.
Cool.
Srinath.

Hmmm. :dunno: I already had two washers on each needle and it was running better before the drop in K&N. I haven't read of anyone adding 3 or more washers.  :dunno: I just put the old filter back in. I'll try it in the morning. It should be running richer/better with the stock filter and the new jets.

Then float level.. .too low... Oh well wait a sec... 2 washers, these #2 washers or #4... If #4 you may be just too rich on the needle.
Cool.
Srinath.

Latest road test results. I removed one #4 washer from each needle. Re-installed the drop in K&N with the 40 pilots, 127.5 mains, 3 turns out air screws. The low-mid range has returned(compared to 2 #4 washers). Up to 6,000rpms is smooth, then it flattens from 6,000- 8,000rpms :dunno:  and goes wild from 8,000-10,000rpms.   Plugs are still dry, light tan to white insulator. :dunno:

OK Please take out the damn #4 washer and put in a #2... Whoever said a GS uses #4... Somehow now everyone has #4's ... the washers are #2's... use 1 or 2, a #2 is 1/2 the thickness of the 4. And float level?? yours might be a mm or so too high, however at 6-8K (you are doing that test in top gear right...) float might hvae a bit less to do wiht that. But You should get that checked anyway. Also slide comming up too quick might be another factor you might want ot check.
Cool.
Srinath.

three words:
Bigger main jets

Quote from: Piper5177three words:
Bigger main jets

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking too. I took out all the washers and it's about the same. Bigger mains when the bike shop opens Monday.

Please keep us updated Ed, I am interested in your final result.  This link may be of help if you haven't looked at it before:

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html


Cheers
Conrad

Thanks Conrad. I already had that link added to my favorites. It's a good page for referrence. It is a nuisance pulling things apart and putting them back together to test the various combinations, but I just want to get this right. In keeping with my personal goal of doing these things the easiest way possible I look for shortcuts. Rather than pulling all the gas lines loose and risking getting them crossed, I only pull the lines from the tank and leave the rest attached to the carbs. Then you just have to remember how they route back through things during reassembly. I take the choke cable loose and leave the throttle attached, since the choke is so easy to pull loose. To get to the jets I put a thin piece of particle board across the frame and lay the loosened carb assembly across it to work on it. This way there are less parts to re-attach and you only have the two gas tank lines to get back on right.

Yeh, it a real pain in the ... removing and replacing the bits, worst yet when you have done it so many times you almost work on auto-pilot.  This is when you put something like the fuel tank back on and and all the other bits and THEN remember you didn't turn the fuel tap back on, ah well whats one more time :x

I have only done some playing with the setup but haven't had the time to go out to some open road for proper testing.  I have however replaced the screws that hold the float bowls on with some allen head screws so in theory I should be able to swap mains without even taking the fuel tank off

I look foward to reading the results of your test.

Good luck
Conrad

Heres an image from on what fuel circuit is used at different throttle settings (I think this is accurate) at http://www.motocross.com/motoprof/moto/mcycle/carb101/carb101.html