Hello guyz,

My 2007 gs500 has 14k miles and never had he valves adjusted. Recently the bike lost power and is very hard to start.

Compression on the right is only 15lbs.

Pulled the cover and I noticed the valves are very tight. No way to fit a feeler gauge on the right side.


I ordered a shim tool at the dealer and when I go pick it up, i am going to pick up some smaller shims that i can try so I can see the exact shims I need.

Which shim should I buy to start out with. Figured id buy on the small side and measure up from there once I can fit a feeler gauge in there.

Thanks

Jfman,  I think the stock shims are usually around 265-270. Explain what you're doing to the dealer - they might try and help you out somehow. But I would try and get a 255 and a 245 if possible. Remember to bring your mics to check the shims before you leave!

Mine were close to what Rich said, here's my complete record of valve checks and shim changes for 180k GS500 miles:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GSvalvelogs_zpscvcef42y.jpg

Note I set my valves to Suzuki specs on the 97 and one exhaust valve was down to a 215 minimum shim at 80k miles.  On the 02 I went to wider .003-.005" gaps on the exhausts and the min shim at 100k miles was a 245.  Never had to change an intake shim.

I keep a 215 shim just in case, but to be honest, the last few valve checks, there was minimal change ever since the first valve check where I set the exhaust valves on the loose end on gsJack's recommendations. I haven't even needed to swap any shims since.

It sounds like you'll need to make another trip to the dealer to get shims after you measure the clearances, and because of that, I'd just one extra small shim for now, like a 245 like Rich mentioned. You might even be able to use that 245.

Before buying smaller shims, try a gauge that goes way down, like to .01mm. This will help establish a baseline. Also helpful is a micro-meter to measure any shims old or new. It's still an investment, but the gauges and meter should only run about $20-30 for both. The shims seem to average around $13-15. I used GSJack's method w/a small crobar and med size flat-head. Works like a charm!
Good luck!

Thank you guyz.

Gonna buy a 245 and a 255 and report back with outcome.

Already got a micrometer. I'll bring it to the dealer to make sure shim is in spec (they sell used ones)

Well the dealer had no shims in stock.

They told me the GS shims are a different size than most other suzukis and they dont stock them.

I have to order them.

Any way to measure them without buying a thin shim first?

Not a money issue moreso a problem of having to run to the dealer multiple times to order and pickup shims.

Actually, all Suzuki bikes (that I'm aware of) that use shims, all use the same diameter. I think Kawasaki uses smaller shims. 

Don't bother ordering them from the dealer - you can order them online and have them shipped to your house.

its a guess but, I imagine its your exhaust that are tight.  Can you feeler gauge any of your valves? Take all your shims out (make a map) and use the smallest one  in the tight spots to try and get a baseline.  I ended up rotating my shims between valves and buying only one new shim.  I went loose on the exhaust spec, as others have said. 

Maybe check local independant shops for shims, a kawi shim would do for measurement if you have a mic or calipers to verify it, just dont leave it in and run the engine.

Slacken off the camcaps so the clearance between the cam and the follower increases and you can get the right size feeler in there. then get a feeler in the gap between the camcaps and the head, record the size. Take this size away from the size of the shim that's in place. Do it a few times and get an average..........you wont be a million miles off.

If you have got a compression tester it wouldn't be a bad idea taking a reading with the camcaps slack.........you may have a bigger problem than tight valves

Hello guyz,

I ordered the bucket tool and a 215 shim to put in there.

There is now a lot of clearance for a feeler gauge.

I turned the motor over with the 215 shim. Unfortunately, the compression is still terrible on the right. It barely makes any compression while on the left there is plenty of compression.

Another problem is that the bucket wont spin like on the other 3 cylinders. On the other 3 cylinder I can move the bucket to line up the groove for the shim. Could not do it on this valve.

Looks like I will have to pull the head to see what is going on.

Probably a burnt valve or worse.

Quote from: sledge on November 20, 2015, 04:56:07 PM
Slacken off the camcaps so the clearance between the cam and the follower increases and you can get the right size feeler in there. then get a feeler in the gap between the camcaps and the head, record the size. Take this size away from the size of the shim that's in place. Do it a few times and get an average..........you wont be a million miles off.

Cool advice!

I pulled the head

As Homer Simpson might say.
"Douuuuuggghhh! "

As the "Mythbusters would say,
"well there's your problem"

As NASA did say, "Houston, we've got a problem"

As my mechanical "guru" friend used to say in such circumstances.."Well my friend, You've just been f_cked by the fickle finger of fate!"


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Quote from: jfman on January 17, 2016, 02:33:41 PM
I pulled the head

Is that what a burned exhaust valve looks like?

Quote from: lucas on January 17, 2016, 07:41:43 PM
Is that what a burned exhaust valve looks like?

Yes and if they were steaks that one woul be well done.

The way I understand it-

Very tight valves not adjusted dont fully close all the way. At, every power stroke some of the combustion escapes thru the gap between the seat and the valve like a blow torch. The escaping combustion eats at the valve and seat and accentuates the problem until it quits running even with the other cylinder pushing it.

Apparently this is why you have to do your valve checks folks

Read the manual...do what it says to do...

Burnt valve at 14K never shoulda happened....

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