Behold it's decrepit-ness and weep for me!





I'm about to get very friendly and talkative on here!
All the help I can get will be greatly appreciated!

Heaven knows I'll need all the help I can get to un-f*ck this bike up! 

WOOT it has arrived!!!!! I am super excited for this thread 

Yeah!  Finally.  Take lots of pics, make sure to go over every last detail and get this thing running like a top and it will serve you well for years.

Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 12, 2016, 08:09:51 PM
WOOT it has arrived!!!!! I am super excited for this thread 

You and me both! 

Quote from: lucas on February 12, 2016, 10:57:31 PM
Yeah!  Finally.  Take lots of pics, make sure to go over every last detail and get this thing running like a top and it will serve you well for years.

I shall indeed! The breakdown begins now! 

Ok, here's the initial impressions:

1) I need a whole new keyset. The previous owners somehow managed to lose them, so they replaced the gas-tank lock (not very well), but I need keys to be able to do testing and anything else.
Anybody got a spare set of keys, switches, and locks they're willing to let go cheap? If not, is there an alternative that doesn't cost me well over $100 through a lock-smith? The EMGO ignition switch has compatibility issues, I know that. . .

2) Every panel, the tank, seat, and gauges are loose. I need to strip the bike down, but since I lack the keys, I'm going to have to work around the latching mechanism. Any suggestion other than research the wiki (I'm already doing this, but its always good to double-check)?

3) I have a strong suspicion the rear wheel is either improperly aligned or it's not spaced correctly, as it makes a squeaking noise once every revolution while pushing and there's significant rub-marks in the rear fender-well.

EDIT; LATER EVALUATION: The rear brake is dragging on the rear rotor, implying over-tightness. The rub-marks seem to be from an exceeded weight-limit coupled with a worn rear shock. (The leading theory)

4) The suspension seems really soft, but a friend says it doesn't seem so bad. Are there adjustment points I need to look at, or is there a method for gauging how much travel they should have from static?

EDIT; LATER EVALUATION: See above explanation.


5) If more info is needed, what pictures would you all like to see to do (limited) theoretical diagnostics?

As a note: I have a certified motorcycle mechanic friend who vows to help me work on this, as well as a friend who knows bikes very well. I've been doing research for a while on this bike, but every bit of input helps! 

Thanks in advance, guys!!! 

Accidentally locked my seat on once after removing the lock and cable. I used a long flathead screwdriver to activate the latch from the opposite side to push the latch open.

Quote from: Joester41 on February 14, 2016, 06:01:35 AM
Accidentally locked my seat on once after removing the lock and cable. I used a long flathead screwdriver to activate the latch from the opposite side to push the latch open.

Thanks! I''l see what I can do!

=========================================================================================

In regards to the ignition switch, it looks like it may have been replaced with an Emgo switch already, as it lacks any markings and has been hard-wired into the wiring harness. While this is not really a massive problem, I have no idea what evil "bolts" they used to secure the assembly, as they seem to be smaller than 4mm!  
How the heck do I get the assembly off?!? There's no bolts on the top of the triple-tree (I took everything apart to check), so how the heck is it removed? Please tell me I don't have to get a drill out. . .
HELP!

EDIT: I'M AN IDIOT AND I REALIZE THAT THERE ARE NO BOLTS BENEATH THERE, ONLY "SLIP-RINGS" AS I CALL THEM, AND I BELIEVE ALL I NEED TO DO IS CAREFULLY PRY THE ASSEMBLY OFF THE BARS AND GO FROM THERE. . .

Aside from that, I replaced the oil and the oil filter (using that wonderful wiki! ) and it looked great! So no worries about water seeping into the case past the rings! I put fresh plugs in, so everything is ready to rock there for later testing. Now to remove the seat to see what the air filter looks like and stare at the carbs balefully, because I really don't want to remove them and strip them apart. . . 

That aint no basket case. Its a runner. In my hands it is the finished end product.
Looks like trash, and runs like a champ.
Cool.
Buddha.

If you search you will find multiple threads about how to remove a locked seat, it is definitely doable.

Buck up, you can handle the carbs.  Inspect the rubber boots, the rubber diaphragm, the rubber o rings.  Diassemble them completely, ensure the choke needles slide easily, inspect the fuel valve and float are in good shape (the service manual has drawings of acceptable wear on the fuel valve needle thing), make sure the fuel needle slides easy in the metal tube it goes in.

Use screwdrivers in good condition, don't strip your jets.  The idle jet needs a flat head screwdriver that is long but not too wide, I filed one of mine down to be about .200 wide.

Take this opportunity to carefully drill out the fuel mixture screw plugs.

Completely disassemble.  You can get the plastic slide guides (white plastic) out using a long m5 or m6 bolt, can't remember which.

Clean everything.  I used a dilute solution of citric acid in a big pot of boiling water (using a camp stove outside, it stinks bad) scrubbed with brass brushes and guitar strings and then dried with wd40 and paper towels.  Blow all the little passages out with a can of compressed air, like you use for keyboards.

You can't really skip this step, your bike will not run right with gunky old carbs. 

I saw a GS in a lowes parking lot, that was from out of state and had the key on the triple busted out and legit just had a screw driver down in there.. seemed to work for that guy.. [ps if you're lurking and see this, it was an all matte'd out black GS]

Quote from: The Buddha on February 14, 2016, 07:32:04 PM
That aint no basket case. Its a runner. In my hands it is the finished end product.
Looks like trash, and runs like a champ.
Cool.
Buddha.

Thanks for the vote of confidence? 

Quote from: J_Walker on February 14, 2016, 11:05:24 PM
I saw a GS in a lowes parking lot, that was from out of state and had the key on the triple busted out and legit just had a screw driver down in there.. seemed to work for that guy.. [ps if you're lurking and see this, it was an all matte'd out black GS]

While I applaud someone for finding unorthodox solutions to their problems, I personally prefer to have everything functional if possible. 
Also: "Murdered Out" bikes (everything black) are rubbish in my opinion. Especially if you're like the PO of my bike who seemed to have just drunkenly spray-painted literally every surface of the bike barring the indicators, headlight, and gauge faces. Paint-runs everywhere. . .

Quote from: lucas on February 14, 2016, 08:40:15 PM
If you search you will find multiple threads about how to remove a locked seat, it is definitely doable.

Buck up, you can handle the carbs.

I'll look into those threads!

Thanks for the vote of confidence! I'll take a look at them today, gird my loins, and carefully strip them down and clean them.

OK, I manned up and tore the front of my bike apart so I could get to the switch and then tore the seat, tank, and side covers off so I could get to the battery and the carbs.

The upper triple-tree clamp came off with not too much of a fuss:


I then discovered that the ignition switch was an aftermarket switch that the PO had hard-wired in:

and those cursed bolts: 


Upon removing the tank, I discovered something surprising. My bike seems to be missing something:

That's right! There's no airbox!

But the Carbs say Mikuni? 

So I removed them for cleaning:


and carefully pulled them apart and set them out for drying:

Pretty clean all things considered! 

What now? Are my Mikuni's stock or aftermarket? My two motorcycle mechanic friends are urging me to get pod filters and call it a day, but I don't know. . . 

Pod filters and jet it.

Also, not sure what the frame paint is like on pre 2004 bikes, but acetone works well for removing bad spray paint jobs... Acetone didn't take any of my stock frame paint off when I prepped mine for paint (2005).

Quote from: Joester41 on February 15, 2016, 06:51:23 PM
Pod filters and jet it.

Also, not sure what the frame paint is like on pre 2004 bikes, but acetone works well for removing bad spray paint jobs... Acetone didn't take any of my stock frame paint off when I prepped mine for paint (2005).

According to my motorcycle mechanic friend, after reviewing pics I sent him, the jets are correctly shimmed.

As for the acetone, I'll have to pick up a container of it at some point. Its sad because the original color of the tank and plastics was that beautiful turquoise green. 

EDIT: 4th post updated.

Those are stock carbs and your air box is indeed missing.  I got 10 bucks for mine selling on this website, you might ask around in the for sale section.

You have to drill out the bolts for the ignition key cylinder.  Those bolts shear off when you tighten them so it is more difficult for a thief to steal your motorcycle.  Your ignition key cylinder also locks your handle bars which is important because hot wiring a motorcycle is extremely simple and takes only a couple seconds.  If your steering is locked the thief can only drive around in tight little circles.

Also I disagree that murdered out bikes are rubbish.  That is just a style (or color?) of motorcycle that you aren't a fan of.  I also don't like seeing shoddy craftsmanship.  You have a Canadian crap-load of over spray on that motorcycle!!

Good luck with the project, take your time and you'll do fine. 

I am loving the updates so far. I'm not sure where would be the cheapest place to get acetone (in a large amount) but I've always bought it at the dollar store. Seems a little bit of it goes a long way 

That would indeed break my heart too about the original color of the tank and plastics... I am a fan of that turquoise color as well 

Forgive me if I missed it somewhere along the way but what are your paint scheme plans/do you have any ideas yet?

Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 16, 2016, 11:32:41 AM
I am loving the updates so far. I'm not sure where would be the cheapest place to get acetone (in a large amount) but I've always bought it at the dollar store. Seems a little bit of it goes a long way 

That would indeed break my heart too about the original color of the tank and plastics... I am a fan of that turquoise color as well 

Forgive me if I missed it somewhere along the way but what are your paint scheme plans/do you have any ideas yet?

I don't have a definitive color scheme selected, but I was leaning towards a metallic electric blue and gold:

(A quick photo-manip to give you an idea)

I do want to put a Cafe-style seat on it as well, but that's all in theory right now; I'm not focused on it at the moment, as I want to get it running first.

That is really a sharp idea IMO... that gold and blue looks very nice together! Thank you for answering and providing a pic too 

Quote from: ShowBizWolf on February 18, 2016, 01:37:30 AM
That is really a sharp idea IMO... that gold and blue looks very nice together! Thank you for answering and providing a pic too 

I like to do photo-manipulations of bikes, plus its a good way to visualize how ell colors go together. I have a friend who wants to paint my bike in that chameleon purple/green and a gun-metal frame. I might mock that combo up sometime.

Work has stalled on the bike while I'm waiting to purchase the ignition switch and several body bushings and bolts. I'd like to buy the bolts at Ace Hardware, but I have no idea what size/pitch/length I'd need without having references. 


=========================================================================================

Oh, and speaking of photoshop work Ive done regarding bikes: 

NICE Daeouse!!! I got my degree in fine art/graphics almost 6 years ago so photoshop, graphics etc. catch my interest all the time