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Going back together

Started by G.Rossman, July 11, 2016, 05:28:38 PM

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G.Rossman

After taking the gs500 apart to check the valve shim gaps, paint the battery tray and swap batteries I have had too much time in between and now need to make sure it's going back together right.

Battery tray is good I think but there is no battery hold down?

I took the airbox out for a K&N but put the stocker back on for now to avoid any issues and I have some line questions.  I have one hose that goes down near the shock, does that hook to the fuel tank underside?  I also have two hoses smaller that look like they go to the carbs but I don't see anyplace to hook them up...where do they go?  I put the larger hose to the top of the airbox and there was a smaller one that had one end capped off I put that on the bottom of the airbox then just ran it back towards the battery...is that where it goes?  The clamp on it is about worthless.

Need to put fairings and tank back on but I messed up taking the tank off.  I eventually took the fuel peacock off but had not at first and the brass lineso going into the bottom of the tank pulled out.  I have pushed then back on but will they stay in?  I'm not sure they are in as far as they had been but I can't remember really how far they were in plus when they came off the tank was still upright. 



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Torstein

Try these for hose routing info:






Adshed

Just curious, where did you source those diagrams from?

ShowBizWolf

I'm not sure where specifically Torstein grabbed them from but they are all over the forum in various threads.

GSJack is always sharing them to help out because there were errors in the original diagrams and they have been corrected in these diagrams  :cheers:
Superbike bars, '04 GSXR headlight & cowl, DRZ signals, 1/2" fork brace, 'Busa fender, stainless exhaust & brake lines, belly pan, LED dash & brake bulbs, 140/80 rear hoop, F tail lens, SV650 shock, Bandit400 hugger, aluminum heel guards & pegs, fork preload adjusters, .75 SonicSprings, heated grips

gsJack

The first two are from Suzuki shop manual and the 3rd one I made putting together the ones in the part fiches and correcting them.  All had confusing errors as shown in the parts fiches.
407,400 miles in 30 years for 13,580 miles/year average.  Started riding 7/21/84 and hung up helmet 8/31/14.

G.Rossman

I think I've decided that while the tank is still off I'm going to swap that k and n filter in.  I flipped the key to on with the new battery and ground and the dash lights seem a lot brighter.  I think that ground was rotting out from the inside.  It is a bit of a stretch with this battery but snagged down fine.  Hopefully be ready to fire tomorrow or Thursday.

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G.Rossman

Okay so looking down at the carbs there are small vacuum and breather lines going to tan plastic pieces.  I have one coming from the canister mounted on the frame, one goes to a splitter but on the right carb the inner side has no line hooked to it and I don't see a line to hook up so I don't think it had one when I got it.  Is there suppose to be one?

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G.Rossman

Just found a photo of when I took it apart.  Before I started there was no line there, but I'm guessing there should be?

I think the carbs maybe were off before, I found one clamp missing a screw going from the left carb to the engine.  I stuck a random screw in there but really should have the proper screw, it's holding it snug for now I think.

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Janx101

There is no battery hold down so you are ok, usually there is a rectangle of very high density foam or rubber under the seat that hovers just above/slightly pushes on top of battery when the seat is properly secured. :thumb:

Torstein

Quote from: Adshed on July 12, 2016, 07:29:18 AM
Just curious, where did you source those diagrams from?

someone had posted them in a thread that i had started a couple of months ago when i was having troubles. just thought i'd pass them on

G.Rossman

New problem.

Got the brass fittings back in the tank with a little pressure and light tap.  Seem to be seated well.  Went to put tank on and rerun fuel line...fuel line is split.  Just old I think.  So I went to the auto parts store and got some more line but nobody had exactly what I needed.  Went home and the line seems to be way too tight.  Rather then trying to force it of rig something up I just went ahead and ordered new oem fuel lines for all 3 spots but may just swap the two going to the tank for now.  I did not order new clamps they were 2.95 each...will  any hose clamp work or is there something special about the oem variety?

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jdoorn14

As long as the old OEM clamps aren't rusted through or too beat up, I'd just use those.

FWIW, I used new OEM fuel lines too. Since the connectors are different diameters on each end of all the hoses, I opted to avoid the headache and pay a little more for the exact right fitting lines. The choice was getting some cheaper lines made of tygon or similar, measure and cut to fit and curse them going on for a couple hours (maybe less)...or pick up the more expensive new OEM lines on the way home from work, pop off the old, pop on the new, and be done with it.
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sdrogue

When I replaced my fuel lines, I ordered some 5/16" fuel line off ebay and some of these. They're darn close to the OEM ones and work just fine. They were a bit tight to get on but some silicon spray helped move them in to position.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-for-Briggs-791850-93053-95162S-Fuel-Line-Clamps-1-2-Hose-1-4-Fuel-Line-/230942018073?hash=item35c5378a19:g:6swAAMXQHDlRbvMw

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