so I sold my GS a while back, and recently I've been looking at bikes in my area. 2 different '07s came up for cheap, one is pretty modified so i might stay away from that one but anyway, on to my question.

I was looking for information on deleting the emissions equipment (which I guess would include the pair valve, or am I mistaken?) on the California specific bikes. the modified bike might actually not be california specific, but i would still like to get rid of that mess of vacuum lines for the carbs and stuff. My previous bike was a 2000 E, and had all the vacuum lines removed, and was running a crf250 petcock, I would like to do the same to the 07 I'll likely be buying within the next few days. Or are there any other options, like perhaps putting older carbs on it, or some off another bike?

I read this thread, but without pictures, it doesnt do me that much good, since im not really familiar with the "newer" GS's.

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=40142.0

Thanks in advance for all the help, looking forward to being back on two wheels.

I have de-emissioned an 09. I haven't seen a pictorial step by step but there is info on the various emissions parts on this website, search "emissions" .

The block off plates used on the PAIR system are common to the Hayabusa.  Its used to when you are using an o2 sensor as the added air via the PAIR sys. messes with the A/F readings. On our bikes if you replace the muffler/CAT combo then the PAIR certainly has no use anymore.  If you leave the muffler/CAT on it will work without PAIR, just not as well.  PAIR removal opens up space on the top of engine and removes hoses.

In my opinion, the only vacuum line you need is for the fuel petcock - if you don't go full manual.

I wouldn't change out the carbs, yours are the newer 3 jet version and do a nice job, but they all start oem life as very lean...too lean.  So a rejet would help, there is a chart on the forum.  The white caps on top of these carbs affect the needle-height for emissions, if you remove the vacuum line from them they are defeated and then the electric vacuum valve and throttle position sensor can all be removed as well.  Way less potential vacuum problems with only 1 or 0 hoses.

I advanced my ignition timing 3-4 mm as well, a little more off-idle jump and fuel economy.

Post pictures of items you want information on.

okay, good to know. I was planning on throwing a slip on, k&n lunchbox, and rejetting as necessary. If I get my hands on a bike one of these days I'll start poking around and taking pictures.

Thanks.

You really can remove the throttle position sensor without any ill effect?

I thought that advancing the timing at higher RPMs would have some benefit?

I think so.

In general ignition is retarded for better emissions, I cant say that I know the TPS intimately but I would guess it advances near idle (to keep it running on lean mixture) and retard as the throttle opens. I reserve to right to be wrong.

But that said, I statically advanced mine(hers) by slotting the ignition pickup plate so it probably compensates for any loss of timing advance provided by the TPS.  The idle increases significantly as I advanced the p/u with the bike running.  It improves off stoplight jump.  I did all my mods at once as they work with each other, the bike (GFs bike) starts easily cold, sounds nice and runs much better than it ever did oem.

Quote from: Weedy64 on July 13, 2016, 10:40:06 AM
I have de-emissioned an 09. I haven't seen a pictorial step by step but there is info on the various emissions parts on this website, search "emissions" .

The block off plates used on the PAIR system are common to the Hayabusa.  Its used to when you are using an o2 sensor as the added air via the PAIR sys. messes with the A/F readings. On our bikes if you replace the muffler/CAT combo then the PAIR certainly has no use anymore.  If you leave the muffler/CAT on it will work without PAIR, just not as well.  PAIR removal opens up space on the top of engine and removes hoses.

In my opinion, the only vacuum line you need is for the fuel petcock - if you don't go full manual.

I wouldn't change out the carbs, yours are the newer 3 jet version and do a nice job, but they all start oem life as very lean...too lean.  So a rejet would help, there is a chart on the forum.  The white caps on top of these carbs affect the needle-height for emissions, if you remove the vacuum line from them they are defeated and then the electric vacuum valve and throttle position sensor can all be removed as well.  Way less potential vacuum problems with only 1 or 0 hoses.

I advanced my ignition timing 3-4 mm as well, a little more off-idle jump and fuel economy.

Post pictures of items you want information on.

So would it be better to cap the PAIR hoses coming out of the silver box or to remove the box entirely?