In need of some help.

I ruined the wife's GS500E engine the other day (camshaft bearing). Bought a GS500F donor and now I'm not sure how many of the vacuum hoses I can omit?

I'm pretty sure one does not need that many hoses to get an engine to work:
- Why are there hoses connected to the exhaust
- Why that many hoses to/from the carbs. I think one containing fuel would bee sufficient

Also. Can I use the old ignition coils with the 500F's ECU?

Any other things to take into account

this is the setup i have right now. 07f engine on 01e chassis.

the hoses attached to the exhaust, that you're referring to is most likely the oil cooler. the 500f has these and the 500e doesn't. what you can do is to swap the part of the frame in the 500e that you can remove completely, with the 500f part. this way, you can attach the oil cooler on the frame no problem.

the excessive vacuum lines you're talking about are most likely the pair system lines. you can remove the pair system. the hoses attached to the exhaust that you are referring to, may also be the hoses from the pair system. these can be removed, however, you will need to buy "block off plates" to block the holes in the engine that they attach to. i bought mine from eBay, they were from a hayabusa.

the electricals on the 500f may not be 100% identical. it's best to swap the electricals as well along with the engine. that's what i did.

Thanks for the promt reply.

The system I'm referring to is the one you call the pair system line. How does that system work? As I understand it generates pulses to the carbs. Why?

The donor is an -04 and the other bike is a -91. The removable frame part is not exactly the same and can not be switched between the frames. The oil cooler is mounted beneath the tripple tree and and there are bolt holes already in the older frame.

The electricals differs quite a lot. I have got the complete wiring loom from the donor and will have to use most of it since the igition pick-up(s) differ. The F motor use an electricel tacho (got that too). Electical choke(?) and also have a carb throttle position sensor. The old engine used a TCI ignition but the new have a more sophisticated ECU.

Is the newer ignition system also a kind of TCI or is it a CDI? Do I have to get new ignition coils?

Decided to use the older ECU but that leaves me without connector at the ECU end for the electrical tacho. Does anyone know if this tacho is possible to connect to one of the ignition coils minus (-) terminal as in the "good old days".

Electrical choke? Hmmmm?!

Quote from: Janx101 on September 18, 2016, 12:31:42 AM
Electrical choke? Hmmmm?!

At least one that has read the text and dear to comment. Unfortunately it was not a comment regarding any of my questions. Not even how the solenoid affects the vacuumsystem / carbs.

I also need to know if the electrical tacho could be conneccted to the ignition coil as in the good old days or if it use voltage or amperage instead of pulses for indicating/counting revs?

Most ?  are now !
- Used the older ignition plate with the older wiring harness
- got rid of most of the vacuum hoses.
- connected the new tacho to one of the igition coils

Engine is running 
Tacho is working 

Next up is rearsets.
Have had mail contacts with Mr Raask himself. Either his rearsets or make my own or adapt from another bike. Suggestions?

One more question to my monolog. What should the petcock markings on a -91 look like. Either someone has done some work on it or I'm too drunk to get it. No matter how I turn the knob it makes no sense. Also, the other day when I ruined the engine I also ran out of juice and no matter how I turned the knob it could not be turned to RES. Should the PRI or ON markings on the petcok be towards the tank? (FUEL text on the right or left)

Greetings from Sweden

Is this what you were wanting to know ?



The longer part of the knob you turn has a triangle that will point to what you want it to be set on. I hope this helps!!

About the rearsets, I put a Honda CBR900RR on mine.  They look sporty, and you can find them for a reasonable price on eBay.

Tiny bit of drilling, but if you can manage an engine swap the rearsets will be a piece of cake.