I just picked up an 06 GS500f off craigslist for 500 whim whams! But alas she needs work. . She has 30k miles on her, and appears over all to be in good condition, except she wont run, well kinda. Previous owner was not mechanically inclined, and stated that "it just died one day, then after a few minutes would start, run for a while, then die again.". Upon my inspection the engine turns but no fire. So far I have changed the oil and spark plugs (with NGK's) and topped of the tires and brake fluid. I am able to get the bike to fire over and it runs fine for a few minutes and then indeed dies. After it dies it wont even run on starting fluid. Pulling the plugs, I get no spark on the block at all. Until I wait a few minutes and try again. Is this the coil packs? or is there some temperature sensor or low oil sensor or some other sensor telling the bike to kill the spark? Wanted to get some advice before I haul off and start replacing parts.

Forgot to mention, gas was bad, did drain and fill up with brand new gas.

If the bike was from 1976 instead of 2006, I'd say your coils have expired..... but since it's only 11 years old with 30k miles, I'd look at some corrosion in the electrical system. Usually around the engine ground strap or battery itself. Maybe even a faulty battery depending on its age.

If the gas was bad do yourself a favor and clean the carbs too. New gas is great, but old gas can make a slimy mess inside all the little passageways. And don't forget your valve clearances too - that will need done unless you personally have done it already.

Quote from: km4unq on February 18, 2017, 08:32:00 PM
I just picked up an 06 GS500f off craigslist for 500 whim whams! But alas she needs work. . She has 30k miles on her, and appears over all to be in good condition, except she wont run, well kinda. Previous owner was not mechanically inclined, and stated that "it just died one day, then after a few minutes would start, run for a while, then die again.". Upon my inspection the engine turns but no fire. So far I have changed the oil and spark plugs (with NGK's) and topped of the tires and brake fluid. I am able to get the bike to fire over and it runs fine for a few minutes and then indeed dies. After it dies it wont even run on starting fluid. Pulling the plugs, I get no spark on the block at all. Until I wait a few minutes and try again. Is this the coil packs? or is there some temperature sensor or low oil sensor or some other sensor telling the bike to kill the spark? Wanted to get some advice before I haul off and start replacing parts.

the only sensor thats engine related, is low oil pressure, and can 100% confirm, riding with that baby on does nothing to shut off the bike. 

is it shutting off like you're hitting the kill switch? like you know the spark plugs are sparkin, and the gas is being delivered?? before I go mechanical.. here's a few switches and do-dads you should look at first..

the main fuse, could be bad, ive had mine go out for no reason at all but because I went over a speed bump.. its a 20amp, its the only fuse on the bike... but this would shut off everything on the bike, no lights or nuffin.

Kickstand switch, easy enough to tell if its what's wrong, pull the plug, and with some bare copper wire, just stick it in both plug holes bridging the connection.

the kill switch itself.. easy enough to take apart and see if there's any lose dangley electrical bits or water damage. pretty simple but be warned, kinda a PITA to get back on the bars without everything wanting to fall out.. 

ERRRMMMMMM

what did the old spark plugs look like? Rich conditions? maybe the carbs are giving it TOO Much fuel and hence why it wont start with starting fluid?..

I mean, the coils are pretty meh tier as far as this bike goes, but some people never see problems with them, while others they have just kicked the bucket for no reason at all. the only issue I've had with them is the little whimpy electrical wires that connect to them, the female plug ends on those suckers have gotten lose on me and I've replaced them on my GS.. I would check those whimpy wires first.. I have chased those things coming lose from vibrations numerous times before replacing, sometimes they are just lose enough to sometimes make connection, and rattle out and lose it, then make it.. then lose it.. but both sides doing this at once would be pretty unlikely. and the GS does run on one cylinder.

The old plugs were awful, rusty and just black. See below.

What's alarming to me is that it fires on both cylinders when it runs, (and idles around 4k I might add) and then just dies, and wont start again, on ether or anything else. Pull both plugs and get no spark to either. Is there a way to test power to the coils? I see the blade attachments on the back, and they have 12v to them, but I'm not sure about where to go from there. She doesn't look too bad for 500 bucks. I have the fairings they are just off for the work.


potentially related question, should this bit have a cover over it? see below

There is a way to test the coils - it would be in the service manual.

Yes, there should be a cover on that..... the fact that it's gone "usually" means the bike has been dropped on the right side. Your timing pickup is under that cover..... so if it's damaged and firing sporadically, you might have found the problem with the spark plugs.

Yes, the previous owner dropped it, its missing the mirror and turn signal on that side as well. Whats that cover called so that I can replace it? and can I repair the spinny touchy thingy inside or is it to be replaced as well? can it be tested?

Quote from: km4unq on February 19, 2017, 12:38:37 AM
Yes, the previous owner dropped it, its missing the mirror and turn signal on that side as well. Whats that cover called so that I can replace it? and can I repair the spinny touchy thingy inside or is it to be replaced as well? can it be tested?

yeah dude, that pickup is rusty AF. they aren't suppose to look like that.. they are normally a greenish golden color.. and there's electrical bits in there, so if its gotten filled up with water, betcha somethings corroded.. luckily for you! you can easily take off that little cover over it, and hit it with some steel wool to get it cleaned up, as far as covering the hole again, OEM sticker.. OR do what I do, some high temp RTV silcone, a ball peen hammer, a little bit of time, and a piece of sheet metal. doesn't look super pretty, but will keep water and other road junk from climbing in there.

Quote from: km4unq on February 19, 2017, 12:38:37 AM
Yes, the previous owner dropped it, its missing the mirror and turn signal on that side as well. Whats that cover called so that I can replace it? and can I repair the spinny touchy thingy inside or is it to be replaced as well? can it be tested?

Here's a link to buy that Suzuki emblem. It's overpriced, and shipping is high, so I covered mine with silver duct tape until I was ordering a few other items from Partzilla at the same time (to cut shipping expenses).

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/suzuki/SP-68233-01D10.html


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I am currently fashioning a cover from a piece of a beer can and some RTV, is there any way I can test the signal generator? the two wires on it with a multimeter? what am i looking for? side note, what year did the GS come to the US? I keep getting that question and i cant find the answer anywhere lol

If i take the rotor off to clean it, does it have to go back on a certain way? or is it marked?

I took it off and cleaned the crap out of it, still no spark. Let me try to describe this better. Wake up, go start the bike, no problem. Ride it up and down the street for >5 mins and it dies and will not come back to life, pull some plugs and see there is no spark. Wait hours and hours, when the bike is stone cold, starts up again and same process. What can happen when this thing gets hot that can steal away my spark? 

My idea (and hope) is that the coils are just super rekt, and when they get a few blasts off stop working due to overheating. I think i can test this by making sure they are still getting 12v sent, but not sending anything back out?

Or since they both go out at the same time the rectifier is busted? I'm spit balling here

Quote from: km4unq on February 19, 2017, 03:50:06 PM
Or since they both go out at the same time the rectifier is busted? I'm spit balling here

the rectifier wont effect the coils, the only point of it is to take the AC current from the generator and convert it to DC current to charge the battery.

Just pull out a spark plug, and ground it off, and turn over the engine to visually see for spark. do it when its kinda dark so its easier to see. im not sure what the voltage is suppose to be after the coils.

KM, I'm busy at work so don't take this the wrong way:

Find a copy of the service manual. It describes the the way to test the ignition coils.

After short run engine stops (both cylinders) and will restart only after cooling; sounds like a coil problem to me.  On a 06 GS there are 2 ignition coils and one pickup coil (signal generator) so I'd check  the pickup coil first for resistance.

My old Clymers specs 250-420 ohms.  If restance is way high indicating coil is open or way low indicating coil is shorted when hot it's bad.  They're not cheap so check it first.  Not likely 2 ignition coils are bad at same time.

Spark is lost on BOTH cylinders, i can pull both ground to block and get zero spark on either. Until bike is cooled off. I'm now also thinking its that signal generator, I'm also at work so I'll have to fiddle with it when I get home. Will update

Quote from: Big Rich on February 18, 2017, 10:18:44 PM
If the bike was from 1976 instead of 2006, I'd say your coils have expired..... but since it's only 11 years old with 30k miles, I'd look at some corrosion in the electrical system. Usually around the engine ground strap or battery itself. Maybe even a faulty battery depending on its age.

If the gas was bad do yourself a favor and clean the carbs too. New gas is great, but old gas can make a slimy mess inside all the little passageways. And don't forget your valve clearances too - that will need done unless you personally have done it already.

My bike is a 2007 and has 5k miles. The coils went bad. Got them checked and replaced.

Nuclear, did they both go out at the same time?