I can't hate to keep posting this but this is really getting annoying to me I have a 2007 GS500F with 4000 miles on it when I bought it it needed a new battery which I brought with me with the cash mine when I started it up it stalled out so I talked to guy down a few hundred dollars I got it for $1,300 never been late now beautiful color when I got it home I took the carbs off I am a commercial golf equipment mechanic so I know carburetor I took the air box off remove the carbs all the rubber boots for perfect when I assembled it I put a little vaseline on the inside of the boots you went together like butter l did not drill the plugs out to adjust the idle air gas adjustment after I got a back together it runs really good this started I full choke it hit the starter button it starts up in about a tenth of a second I turn down the choke little bit let it warm up for about a minute and take off from there everything is fine I'll stop the RPM at idle is about 1600 which I love but after the thing warms up after driving it 20-some miles when I stopped at a light and pull the clutch in the idles up it like 3500 I adjusted the big idle knob after it was hot like you're supposed to do but it keeps having this hanging idle at 3500 RPM when I'm at a light and it's rubbing at 3500 RPM in neutral I crack it down into first gear let the clutch out to put a load on the motor after the tachometer goes below mm or so it idles at a perfect 1600 what would causes high idle when it's hot there are no vacuum leaks I've checked everything all the hoses are fine but I am getting a loud clicking sound from the TPS is this normal I'm at the end of my rope otherwise I love this fight it goes from idle to redline like a screaming banshee handles great but this high idle thing I cannot fix I've checked the throttle cable it's at the end of it travel so I know the butterflies are closing all the way what the hell is going on

Idle is too high to start with. Adjust the idle only after it is fully warmed up. 15 minutes of actual riding on the road. Then adjust to 1200 rpm and see if the hanging idle goes away. If not then adjust richer 1/4 turn and repeat warm up and adjust idle etc.

, the thing is this problem is intermittent sometimes I can drive it for 20-25 Mi and stop then the idles fine at 1600 but more than half the time once it's fully hot it starts idling at 3500 and like I said in my previous post if I'm stopped and it's idling at 3500 and it's in first gear and I let the clutch out and put a load on the engine and the RPM drops to about 2,000 if I pull in the clutch then and I'm still stopped at the light the RPM drops down to the normal 1600

Yes. 1600 is too high.

Quote from: Gcook57 on July 19, 2017, 03:18:37 PM
I can't hate to keep posting this but this is really getting annoying to me I have a 2007 GS500F with 4000 miles on it when I bought it it needed a new battery which I brought with me with the cash mine when I started it up it stalled out so I talked to guy down a few hundred dollars I got it for $1,300 never been late now beautiful color when I got it home I took the carbs off I am a commercial golf equipment mechanic so I know carburetor I took the air box off remove the carbs all the rubber boots for perfect when I assembled it I put a little vaseline on the inside of the boots you went together like butter l did not drill the plugs out to adjust the idle air gas adjustment after I got a back together it runs really good this started I full choke it hit the starter button it starts up in about a tenth of a second I turn down the choke little bit let it warm up for about a minute and take off from there everything is fine I'll stop the RPM at idle is about 1600 which I love but after the thing warms up after driving it 20-some miles when I stopped at a light and pull the clutch in the idles up it like 3500 I adjusted the big idle knob after it was hot like you're supposed to do but it keeps having this hanging idle at 3500 RPM when I'm at a light and it's rubbing at 3500 RPM in neutral I crack it down into first gear let the clutch out to put a load on the motor after the tachometer goes below mm or so it idles at a perfect 1600 what would causes high idle when it's hot there are no vacuum leaks I've checked everything all the hoses are fine but I am getting a loud clicking sound from the TPS is this normal I'm at the end of my rope otherwise I love this fight it goes from idle to redline like a screaming banshee handles great but this high idle thing I cannot fix I've checked the throttle cable it's at the end of it travel so I know the butterflies are closing all the way what the hell is going on

The ignition control modules on these bikes can get pretty wonky - dwell and total timing can go right out the window with temperature changes.  If you've done 'everything else' then the problem just might be that.  Good luck.

Quote from: bigfatcat on July 21, 2017, 07:00:56 AM
The ignition control modules on these bikes can get pretty wonky - dwell and total timing can go right out the window with temperature changes.  If you've done 'everything else' then the problem just might be that.  Good luck.

How can ignition cause high idle? You have to have fuel to get it to rev.

The spark is retarded (closer to top dead center) at low engine speeds. As the rpm's go up, the spark is advanced so that the engine runs correctly. If the spark is not retarded when the rpm's go down, the engine will want to idle high.

Quote from: ajensen on July 21, 2017, 07:25:10 AM
The spark is retarded (closer to top dead center) at low engine speeds. As the rpm's go up, the spark is advanced so that the engine runs correctly. If the spark is not retarded when the rpm's go down, the engine will want to idle high.

I'm not sure I buy this explanation entirely but even still I can't imagine this would have more than a very, very slight effect on idle speed. Like 1200rpm vs 1250 rpm. Not 3500 rpm, typical "hanging idle" symptom.

If you set the idle speed too high (like in this case, 1600 rpm) then when coming down from higher speed running the throttle plate doesn't fully close (enough) to cause the air pressure conditions needed to cause the slide and main needle to drop all the way down and close off the main jet. So you still get fuel from the main jet and as long as there is enough air coming through the throttle plate to sustain it, it will keep running at a higher speed and in particular the vacuum will remain high enough to keep the slide up a little bit. At idle you should get air in through a little tiny hole in the throat of the carb so the throttle plate can be fully closed meaning there's NO WAY for air to flow over the main jet and pull fuel in even if it remains open, and eventually vacuum will reduce (talking a second here) and the slide will drop all the way down.

So if the idle speed is set too high, regardless of mixture, it can cause hanging idle. It's not because you are trying to idle too high. It's just that you are truly not idling because the throttle plate is open too much. Also having the idle plate open too much at idle will cause it to run lean because air comes in through the throat of the carb and not across the pilot jet and therefore doesn't pick up fuel from the pilot jet. You end up thinking the pilot mixture is too lean and trying to fix the problem by making it way, way too rich, when the solution is to lower the idle speed.

It's not really a great idea to try to get these bikes to idle over about 1300 rpm. I think it's tempting to try to up the idle speed if the bike wants to sometimes stall at idle because you take it off of choke too soon or you have a vacuum leak or carb sync issue etc. making idle difficult, but you are just compounding the problems IMHO.


To the OP: seriously, lower the idle speed. Fully warm the bike by riding on the road like 15-20 minutes then set the idle speed to 1200 rpm. IF that doesn't fix the hanging idle completely, then adjust the pilot screws 1/4 turn richer WHILE THE BIKE IS STILL FULLY WARMED. That will likely make the idle speed increase (if it was too lean), so you will have to re-adjust the idle speed back down to 1200, etc. etc. This is when you go ride to a gigantic empty parking lot after a 20 minute ride and bring along your tiny screwdriver and ride-adjust-ride-adjust.

I'm repeating myself here so I'll bail off of this topic. If these things don't fix your hanging idle then I probably can't help with whatever the problem is. If you're not willing to fix the idle speed, it'll still have hanging idle.

1600 is a good idle rpm, I am more comfortable with it even higher, 1700 even.
Idle rpm is what determines oil pressure at idle, and a higher oil pressure = more oil pressure @ the cam bearings etc.
I'd bet you're lean on pilots. Very common issue. About 1/2 the bikes are that way.
Cool.
Buddha.

My 2007 GS500F seems to be running perfectly most of the time when I started in about 60 degree weather I full choke I hit the starter and it fires right up I moved the choke down so it idles at about 3000 weight about 1 or 2 minutes and then I can take off I've written 25 miles on the freeway with no stopping and when I come to a stop it idles great I like my idle at about 14 1500 but once in awhile when I come to a stop it idles at about 3000 to 3500 RPM like I said in my other post when I'm stopped and it's idling high and I'm in first gear and I let the clutch out and put a load on the engine and the RPM drops to about 2000 and pull the clutch back in so the motor is basically in neutral the idle will drop to the normal 1500 I just can't figure out why is this is happening I pulled the carbs off and totally cleaned them out didn't shoot any gumout up into the diaphragm just cleaned all the Jets out and blew them out with compressed air reassemble them the choke slide is working fine the only thing I can think of is that when I reattach the throttle cables maybe I didn't tighten up the lock nuts tighten enough but when I twist the throttle when the bike is off it snaps back like you wouldn't believe I've tried adjusting the idle when it's warm and I got it down to about 1500 like I like it but like I'm saying sometimes when I stop I get this hanging idle at about 3,500 RPM all the rubber boots are good brand new air cleaner brand new spark plugs it's just really hard for me to figure this out I've been a commercial Turf mechanic for almost 40 years so I know carburetor is like the back of my hand but I've never experienced anything like this

Also when I pulled the carbs off I didn't drill the plugs out for the idle air mixture screws is there any way anybody has done this without taking the carbs off like with an angle drill possibly drilling a small hole in the cap screwing a screw in and then pulling it out maybe that is my problem if I could adjust the idle mixture screw but I don't know

Also the bike will run from Idol to the 11000 Red Line with no hiccups I can cruise at 90 all day so it seems like the carburetor is in tune but I keep getting this hanging idle once in awhile it's very annoying any help would be greatly appreciated

You're lean at idle. If it was me, I would pull the carbs and replace the slow jets with the next higher jet. Then I would drill the plugs and remove and clean the idle fuel-air ports. Be careful when you do this. There is a tiny o-ring and a tinier washer in that hole. As a note, you need to shoot some aerosolized carb cleaner in those ports, so you need to remove the diaphragms.

Then I would reassemble everything (set the fuel-air screws at 2.5 turns out) and go for a ride. Set the idle at 1300 rpm after you have ridden for at least ten minutes. Then ride some more. Does the idle still hang? If so, turn the mixture screws out a quarter turn and try again. You will need to adjust the idle after you mess with the screws. It may take a few times, but you'll get there. Be patient and don't half-ass any of the steps.

Quote from: Jim Moore on July 24, 2017, 03:04:10 AM
Set the idle at 1300 rpm after you have ridden for at least ten minutes. Then ride some more. Does the idle still hang? If so, turn the mixture screws out a quarter turn and try again. You will need to adjust the idle after you mess with the screws. It may take a few times, but you'll get there.

This is what I have said about three times already in this thread.

OP: report back when you have done this. Until then you will have hanging idle problems no matter what, so get used to it. And regardless of what others may say, your idle is set too high at 1600 rpm and that's the root cause of the problem, but too-lean idle (from the factory) is also contributing to the problem. You will need to change the pilot jet and remove the anti-tamper plugs to fix that. In any case once you pull the carbs, change the jets, etc. etc., you will have to reset the idle anyway.

Thanks everybody for all the feedback if I take all the feedback I've gotten it really seems like my idle /gas  air mixture is too lean l will pull the carburetors drill out the plugs and start with two and three quarters turns out from after they bottom out when I pull them out I will make sure the old rings and washers are there and probably replace the O-rings anyways the thing that really perplexes me is that in the morning I can start my bike on full choke it fires up in a tenth of a second I turn down the choke about halfway it idles at about 3000 RPM I let it run for about 1 minute and I take off the choke completely and it idles at about 1200 and I can ride it I've driven it as far as 30 miles on the freeway after I have started it up and let it warm up for that minute and then when I come to a stop the idol is a perfect 1200 but just once in awhile and it's always when it's hot I'll come to a stop and it will be idling at 3000 to 3500 I just don't understand understand why it wouldn't do that all the time when it's hot or is that just the nature of the Beast with this fight this is my first Suzuki and I'm finding it very finicky especially the carburetors I'm really happy with all the other aspects of the bike it's a great machine

Just a thought, but is your throttle cable moving smoothly and routed correctly? perhaps if there was any corrosion on the cable or a slight fray in the cable somewhere it might stick intermittently. I found that the GS500 was a little picky about cable routing as well. If you get a high rev, try physically pushing and pulling the cable a little to see if the idle changes.   

Quote from: Gcook57 on July 24, 2017, 01:00:06 PM
Thanks everybody for all the feedback if I take all the feedback I've gotten it really seems like my idle /gas  air mixture is too lean l will pull the carburetors drill out the plugs and start with two and three quarters turns out from after they bottom out when I pull them out I will make sure the old rings and washers are there and probably replace the O-rings anyways the thing that really perplexes me is that in the morning I can start my bike on full choke it fires up in a tenth of a second I turn down the choke about halfway it idles at about 3000 RPM I let it run for about 1 minute and I take off the choke completely and it idles at about 1200 and I can ride it I've driven it as far as 30 miles on the freeway after I have started it up and let it warm up for that minute and then when I come to a stop the idol is a perfect 1200 but just once in awhile and it's always when it's hot I'll come to a stop and it will be idling at 3000 to 3500 I just don't understand understand why it wouldn't do that all the time when it's hot or is that just the nature of the Beast with this fight this is my first Suzuki and I'm finding it very finicky especially the carburetors I'm really happy with all the other aspects of the bike it's a great machine

Brother, that's the nature of the hanging idle. Don't let it perplex you any more. Just fix it.