Been reading through some threads of powder coating since my frame is a bit pock-marked with rust, and is grubby and I don't particularly like the drab silver and was thinking of having it sorted.

Does anyone have any advice on having it done? There are quite a few places around here that do Powder-coating, I haven't asked around for automotive ones yet but I'd imagine at least some have.

This post mentions amongst other things the powder getting into the threads which I'd hope I can just leave bolts in (as per the suggestion) to prevent them crusting up. Another, maybe this one, mentioned the need to have a decent earth point - Didn't know if the bolts provided this well enough? I also wasn't sure about the various frame numbers and designation plates and things and if they would survive, I assume the VIN is the most important here?

I'd guess they'd have to sandblast it all down first to remove any paint (someone has had a go at the cradle with a rattle can) and get a clean surface, I don't know if it would need any other prep, either before blasting or after?

Also wasn't sure what else needs thinking about, I'm concerned about the swing arm rubbing, not checked clearances (and its raining), and a few other bits like the rear engine mounts and whether losing a bit of finish will compromise the rest of the coat? Lastly, If I change from the original silver is there a robust way to recolour the bolt heads? It would look a bit daft with a matt grey finish and stainless bolts?

don't worry about the vin, as long as all the original paint is off, it should show through like when painted.

yeah you could leave the bolts in, but you could also ask the powder coating shop what you can do to preserve these holes.

as far as choosing the shop, who ever is gonna do it for the cheapest. you REALLY cannot screw up powder coating without it being super obvious.

bolt heads, you can get little bolt head caps if they really bother you that much, or just use a paint pen, to dot over them [its what I did with the ones on the handlebar clamps.]

Not all powder coaters are the same. Give your frame to someone who normally coats say......radiators, and they will coat your frame like its a radiator!

Find someone who specialises in bike parts and let them advise you.

I am speaking from experience.

I'd recommend removing that sticker on the left side so they can coat it, else, that will not be removed in the blasting, but the heat will melt off the glue and it will be nice old metal.
I also welded all the gaping holes in the welds, and some spots that was concave I put material in it and sanded it so it was convex, so it wont collect water and eat the powder and then rust.
I now however believe POR15 followed by POR15 hardnose would have been a better choice. Gas turns the black color greyish and I am worried it still softens it.
PO15 usually will be much much cheaper however these are the cautions you have to observe before using it.
POR15 will not stand up to UV light. You will have to cover it with hardnose.
Hardnose adheres like crap to anything other than finger drag cured POR15.
Hardnose does not prevent rust, that's why you need the POR15.

POR15 on my driveway has stood up to standing/walking/driving/sun for 10+ yrs.
Too bad the frucking thing is peeling out of my gas tank in 10yrs.
However on an open surface, with a sprayer where you can get a thin enough coating on it you may get good adhesion. Since there is no way to drain a GS tank fully and no way to exactly put in the right thickness into it and since we have no idea what is in the crap pocket of a GS we're SOL.

Cool.
Buddha.

I just recently started using POR15 and it really is amazing stuff. A bit pricey, yes... but so far from what I've seen, it's totally worth it. Never considered using it for a bike frame but... sounds like a good idea!!

i forget what site I first learned about POR15.. but man It blew up like "BEST THING EVER FOR COATING THE INSIDE GASTANKS" then a few years later "IT FLAKED!" I believe it was a boating forum, Ethanol eats away at fiberglass tanks that are un-coated so lots of old tanks started leaking after being fine for 40 years... so when POR15 became mainstream everyone was all over it.

it's good stuff, just lacks color choices.

@J_Walker Ah cool, I wasn't sure if the powder would be too thick and obscure the VIN and the man from the ministry would say 'no' at its next MOT. Thanks for confirming that!

@Sledge: That is worth considering as the nearest lot to me mostly do industrial fittings and condensers and things - I'll give them a miss and look a bit further afield. Radiator look bike?!

@The Buddha: I wasn't sure if the blasting would remove the stickers, most of them are illegible or are in very faded French or repeatedly point out the engine size - I don't think I'll miss any of them. I'll remove them when the swing arm is off and I'm degreasing it.

I'll have a look into POR15 and ask if whoever does the work can lash a layer of it over the bike after blasting. Rust forming underneath any coating is my big concern as it'll just fester unnoticed and then the bike will parallelogram at speed and that'll be that. Looks like its available over here too. The bike lives outside under a cover but it is exposed so anything has to be quite environment proof until I move and get a garage.

Thanks all for input, stripped back most of the back of the frame now, just the remaining electrics and front to go before getting out the swing arm.

The beauty of POR15 is that it's specifically made to be painted directly onto rust... believe it or not!