http://imgur.com/a/e0Cyh

Hey everyone. I had to clean my carbs. It had old, brown gas in it and I think it was gunking up my carb and idle. So, I decided to take things out and clean it. As mentioned before in an old post, my fuel inlet broke, so I got a serrated knife to saw off the ridge so that I could put a 5/16" hose over it (clamped after).

The problem now is that I have some questions that I'm sure of. Please see the link to see 3 images.

1. How do I know which goes where in the gas tank? I think I had them mixed up once... when my bike died and there was not a drop of gas left.

2. This is on the carbs.... that black box on the bottom is the air box(?) where does this tube go? To the ground?

3. I originally thought this was the water vent (?) for the bottom of the gas tank... and it fits too. But I think I found another hose for that. Where does this go? It is capped, not open.

Hiya tzzzel,

This link here should help ya out with the corrected hose routing:
http://wiki.gstwins.com/index.php?n=Main.HoseRouting

Also, the tube in picture number 3 is the airbox drain hose. It connects to the bottom of the airbox and you can aim it down at the ground anywhere under the bike where it won't interfere with anything. It appears capped off at the end but if you look closer, there is a slit in the end. I recently got up close and personal with mine because it was rubbed through and I had to replace it lol

Edit: Just had a look at my bike to be sure before I said anything more... and also, you appear to have the newer style than mine so bear with me... but from what I can see, the thinner/smaller hose in picture number two should be the vacuum line. It goes from that T piece on the carbs to the diagonal aimed hookup on the rear most part of the frame petcock. You can see that part of the petcock in the link above, it's labeled "vacuum hose". When I check out your first picture, it looks like that hose is already attached where it should be tbh... which would be great !!

SBW, thanks for the link! I would have never been able to find it on the web. I am trying to get this baby up today or the holiday so I can pass safety... almost there...

You're quite welcome! I hear ya about searching for it on the web. Good luck with meeting your deadline!

The stock routing for the air box drain hose comes out between the frame and engine, just in front of the rear brake lever. Also, the tank overflow and battery drain (if you have one) are routed there as well. There should be a clamp on the engine casing for them.

That cover on the air box drain hose is so that liquid can drain out, but won't suck unfiltered air into the engine.

- Bboy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

http://imgur.com/a/jKQ7I

Hey everyone, I tried looking at your comments and the diagrams. Mine's a 2004, so it follows the 2004+ build. I thought I followed everything, but I tried priming and choking it and it didn't even turn over or make the sound like it would turn over. I'm thinking I will need to disassemble and re-assemble . While I'm at it, I made a 2nd picture... I am still not 100% sure the hose is supposed to exit out to nothing?

Quote from: tzzzel on September 06, 2017, 01:41:39 AM
http://imgur.com/a/jKQ7I

Hey everyone, I tried looking at your comments and the diagrams. Mine's a 2004, so it follows the 2004+ build. I thought I followed everything, but I tried priming and choking it and it didn't even turn over or make the sound like it would turn over. I'm thinking I will need to disassemble and re-assemble . While I'm at it, I made a 2nd picture... I am still not 100% sure the hose is supposed to exit out to nothing?

Are you sure the battery is charged?

Are you sure you didn't trip the kill switch near the right grip?

Quote from: gsJack on September 06, 2017, 06:04:54 AM
Are you sure you didn't trip the kill switch near the right grip?

I don't think the bike will crank if the kill switch is on, right?

start with KGB known good battery. make sure connected. make sure that one fuse   is good. nexxt make sure bike is in neutral. ( if kickstand is down and bike in gear it does nothing.) turn key on switch on and try. if nothing still, there are two safety switches on bike. the kickstand ( the neutral thing i mentioned) and one on clutch lever. either one can be bypassed if need be..
Aaron

Hey guys, could you also confirm that my T hose here, not the one that connects to gas valve, is supposed to lead to nothing?

http://imgur.com/a/jKQ7I

the vent hose from the upper T connection is supposed to lead to nothing. This hose should be routed over and behind the airbox, otherwise air can force itself in there at speed and cause fuel starvation issues. However, you stated that the engine "will not turn over" when you press the starter. That is much more likely to be electrical, which is why I suggested the battery and why gsJack suggested the kill switch. Other possible issues are the clutch safety switch or the side sand safety switch.

Like qcbaker said the no start, no crank problem is electrical and has nothing to do with the hoses.  Check the kill, kickstand, and clutch switches.  Do the lights come on with key turned on, if not see if they do with a jumper battery boost. 

Thanks QCB! I had an issue reading that diagram.... I might have to get some sort of labels to help me with those the next time. I've already mixed up the hoses for the main line and reserve line once (guess how I know I mixed them up).

And GSJACK, thanks. It cranks, but no turn over. I figured since I cleaned the carbs, the fuel line would be totally empty. I didn't want to flood it, so I stopped cranking after a while, esp. since I was getting zero turn over sounds.

Going to work on this again Thursday or Saturday... I've got both safety to do then registration. Ordered some touchup paint. In the meantime, doing a 35 minute walk to work downtown, which is not bad in Hawaii right now .

Quote from: tzzzel on September 06, 2017, 12:57:11 PM
Thanks QCB! I had an issue reading that diagram.... I might have to get some sort of labels to help me with those the next time. I've already mixed up the hoses for the main line and reserve line once (guess how I know I mixed them up).

And GSJACK, thanks. It cranks, but no turn over. I figured since I cleaned the carbs, the fuel line would be totally empty. I didn't want to flood it, so I stopped cranking after a while, esp. since I was getting zero turn over sounds.

Going to work on this again Thursday or Saturday... I've got both safety to do then registration. Ordered some touchup paint. In the meantime, doing a 35 minute walk to work downtown, which is not bad in Hawaii right now .

Here is a more clear diagram, however the text is in german:

Hey guys, thanks for the diagrams. Really cleared things up.

Can I ask another question? I initially took it apart because I thought the carbs were gunked -- old gas, fired up with choke, but died without. So I opened it up, and sprayed the carbs allover. However, even after putting it back together, the choke only goes up to 4k RPM (it sounds less than normal), and once again, dies with the choke off.

Do I need to go back and do a better job of cleaning the carbs? I sprayed carb cleaner in every hole I could find and opened up the float bowls too (worked for me in the past...)

Take the carbs completely apart. Either buy new jets or clean the old ones. It is not best to poke wires through the holes in the jets, but I do it. Then spray carb cleaner through everythiing, making sure that you do not get any on any of the rubber parts. Be sure to clean the slide needles and the piece they fit into. Make sure the float needles and seats are good, and set the float levels.Set he low speed mixture screws are set at about three turns out. My GS500f runs well at 3 1/2 turns out. There are other ways to get your carbs clean and working right, and I hope other members of the forum will tell you about them. Let us know how it goes.

Quote from: tzzzel on September 09, 2017, 09:12:40 PM
Hey guys, thanks for the diagrams. Really cleared things up.

Can I ask another question? I initially took it apart because I thought the carbs were gunked -- old gas, fired up with choke, but died without. So I opened it up, and sprayed the carbs allover. However, even after putting it back together, the choke only goes up to 4k RPM (it sounds less than normal), and once again, dies with the choke off.

Do I need to go back and do a better job of cleaning the carbs? I sprayed carb cleaner in every hole I could find and opened up the float bowls too (worked for me in the past...)

If you sprayed carb cleaner directly into the carbs, you may have damaged any number of rubber o-rings and/or the diaphragms. I would check for vacuum leaks.

Quote from: qcbaker on September 11, 2017, 05:15:05 AM

Quote from: tzzzel on September 09, 2017, 09:12:40 PM
Hey guys, thanks for the diagrams. Really cleared things up.

Can I ask another question? I initially took it apart because I thought the carbs were gunked -- old gas, fired up with choke, but died without. So I opened it up, and sprayed the carbs allover. However, even after putting it back together, the choke only goes up to 4k RPM (it sounds less than normal), and once again, dies with the choke off.

Do I need to go back and do a better job of cleaning the carbs? I sprayed carb cleaner in every hole I could find and opened up the float bowls too (worked for me in the past...)

If you sprayed carb cleaner directly into the carbs, you may have damaged any number of rubber o-rings and/or the diaphragms. I would check for vacuum leaks.

qbaker is right. If you got carb cleaner on the diaphragms then you probably ruined them. You need to completely disassemble the carbs before spraying anything with carb cleaner, and ensure you don't spray anything rubber, including o-rings. Only spray/clean metal parts with no rubber attached to them.

Anyway, starting the bike cold should require choke. Period. Just because it requires choke to start and dies without is no reason to believe something is wrong.

When you start it on choke it will rev to something like 4-5K rpm. 4K is within the range of normal. Leave it running like that for a minute or so until you get underway. You can turn the choke off after a minute or two if you are rolling but you may still have to nurse the throttle at stops to prevent it from stalling when it's cold without choke. It will not run normally off-choke until it is fully warmed up which takes about 15-20 minutes of actual riding on the road in my experience. Up to that point it may still have low idle with the choke turned off.

IDK the original symptom you were trying to fix but I am just trying to help define what's up with the starting on choke behavior, that's normal.

BTW if you had destroyed or damaged the rubber diaphragm from spraying with carb cleaner you will get some other issues, like it won't rev over about 3-4K rpm when riding, or if it does rev above 3-4K it intermittently refuses to rev back down on its own, requires you to set the idle so low that the bike won't idle at all without nursing the throttle no matter how warmed up it is, or otherwise idles at 7K rpm, etc. Those are more typical symptoms of damaged diaphragm. They are similar to issues with severe vacuum leak, only worse. Now, you might cause a vacuum leak or internal fuel leak by damaging o-rings with carb cleaner.... float won't stay seated, vacuum leak from top of the carb, fuel leak at the pilot screw so you can't correctly set pilot mixture, fuel leak into bowls when float needles are closed, etc. This manifests as bike won't idle, surges when you run it especially when aiming down hill, inconsistent idle speed, acts like it's running rich even when you bottom the pilot screws, and of course vacuum leak related problems.

hi. is the rubber diaphragm the circular rubber housing that connects the carbs to the engine?