News:

The simplest way to help GStwin is to use this Amazon link to shop

Main Menu

Cam-tensioner - black end cap

Started by Darkstar, December 24, 2017, 10:52:52 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Darkstar

I found an oil leak coming from the large gasket on my tensioner, so I removed the whole assembly and scraped both gaskets off. I was amazed at how completely fused to the metal  the large gasket was. It seemed like it was chemically bonded. Anyway, I got the surface clean clean and checked the spring action which was good. There's not much info out here, nor in the SM, for re-installing. From what I can gather it will go like this:

1. Re-assemble with the new gaskets, slide into place
2. Remove the black cap and then turn the flat head to set the spring, screw into down, release spring
3. Reinstall the black cap.

I imagine the black cap would leak if it became bent coming out. So do I have to buy a replacement cap, and should I use some sealant when putting it in? Any alternatives to this $1.48 cap that will cost $5.00 to ship? ugh
2007F with 22k NY/NJ miles. Stock exhaust/airbox. Rejet to 20/60/132/one o-ring/1.25 turns out, +2 mojo

user11235813

#1
I just did this a couple of weeks ago. Someone suggested that I give the tensioner a soak in some oil. I disintegrated the black cap when I took it out. It's probably worthwhile getting both gaskets. Yes, the old main gasket gets baked on similar to the stator cover gasket.

I found the best way to install was to wind the spring in a bit then while holding it screw on the four bolts in by hand just enough to hold the tensioner in place. Once it's being held by the bolts I just turn the tensioner a bit then wind the bolts by hand, turn the tensioner a bit, wind them some more by hand and keep on doing that till it's flush then do the final tighten.

I just pressed a new black cap on, no leakage from there even when it was old and cracked.

Joolstacho

Yeah there's not actual oil pressure in there, sealant like 3-Bond will do it.
Beam me up Scottie....

Darkstar

Quote from: Joolstacho on December 25, 2017, 12:21:55 AM
Yeah there's not actual oil pressure in there, sealant like 3-Bond will do it.

when i look inside the spring/coil section, i see no hole going through but plenty of oil on the springs. so its not pulling oil from the engine? is it mean to be re-oiled if time you open it up?
2007F with 22k NY/NJ miles. Stock exhaust/airbox. Rejet to 20/60/132/one o-ring/1.25 turns out, +2 mojo

J_Walker

Quote from: Darkstar on December 25, 2017, 02:04:01 PM
Quote from: Joolstacho on December 25, 2017, 12:21:55 AM
Yeah there's not actual oil pressure in there, sealant like 3-Bond will do it.

when i look inside the spring/coil section, i see no hole going through but plenty of oil on the springs. so its not pulling oil from the engine? is it mean to be re-oiled if time you open it up?

a little oil gets flicked in there from the engine, re-oiling it is just good to do when you've pulled it all off and cleaned it to get the sand and road crude out of there.
-Walker

The Buddha

You make a T fitting out of metal and retract the thing and install the T to hold it retracted in place of that rubber button in the outer cover.
You can also enlist a helper and use a small screwdriver instead. General idea is to retract it and then install it and let it unfurl, and then sort of turn the motor forward slowly by hand till it takes hold of where its supposed to be. Then crank it up.
Cool.
Buddha.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
I run a business based on other people's junk.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk