Quote from: MotoSig on February 23, 2018, 02:50:48 PM

Quote from: mr72 on February 23, 2018, 12:36:36 PM
Please, just sell the bike now or leave it alone.

Heck no. Half the fun is modding it. Im with gregjet on this one.

So are therr any aftermarket filters you all would reccommend other than K&N?

Those clamp on uni's can be almost as clean as a stocker with almost as much flow as a K&N lunch box, except those things hold up very very poorly when you stick em in the open. Worse yet, they take in water and choke out if you ever get caught in a rain storm. I seriously doubt if its eve worth it. They'd disintegrate in 6 mo / 1yr when installed out in the open. In an airbox you barely get 3-4 yrs out of them.
Cool.
Buddha.

What about HIFLOFiltro filters? Know anything about them?

Quote from: MotoSig on February 23, 2018, 03:55:52 PM
What about HIFLOFiltro filters? Know anything about them?

He he he ... might as well take a stock filter and name it super duper hi hoss power filtro that can make your D1ck bigger and you seXier than Jorge Clooner ...
Cool.
Buddha.

I am with you on not having an airbox around a filter, I am not so sure about water sucking, but they definitely get dirtier faster. The amount you would get through the filter unless you got it soaked from a full water blast, is probably not going to do much ( dirt bike experience).
Except on race bikes  I am not a fan of open pods either. An ait intake somewhere a bit more labyrinthine is preferable. I am running a stock box with a GS1400 filter. That should give better flow and a "still"air box . Different on track of course. Open stacks and different length inlet tract.

Quote from: mr72 on February 23, 2018, 08:09:20 AM
...
Well that's a confusion of cause and effect. Because the pipe diameter is larger, the exhaust gases flow more slowly and at a lower pressure. Putting bigger exhaust doesn't CAUSE a higher volume of exhaust to flow, or even enable it. The rate of flow is critical, and it is not true that the ideal is the lowest possible rate of flow (bigger pipes). The acoustical tuning to produce scavenging is way, way more important than flow rate.
...

Again, I think you're getting a bit hung up on semantics here. I'm not disagreeing with you about the mechanics at play. When I say "allows" a better flow rate, I figured it was obvious that I didn't mean to imply that a better exhaust magically increases the volume of exhaust gases being produced. Adding more fuel and air to the combustion cycle does that, the better exhaust is just better able to handle it. A better exhaust allows a higher volume of exhaust gasses to flow through it per unit time. And that is through a combination of things, scavenging via acoustic wave tuning, slightly larger pipes, less restrictive muffler, etc.

Improving the scavenging process allows a higher volume of gasses to travel through the pipes at any given time. "Flow rate" just refers to the volume of exhaust gases being evacuated per engine cycle. And if an aftermarket exhaust scavenges better than the stock one, more exhaust gases will be evacuated per cycle. Ergo, an exhaust that is tuned acoustically to scavenge exhaust gases better than the stock on will flow a higher volume of exhaust gasses per cycle.

Again, I'm not disagreeing with you. Seems like there was just a bit of miscommunication because I wasn't specific enough.

I also don't disagree that exhausts and filters are probably some of the least productive mods in terms of power gains. Stock filters and stock exhaust are fine, but a slightly richer rejet is probably beneficial. If you want to make the bike "feel" faster, going with a -1 front sprocket will make the bike feel like a rocket off the line. Top speed will be reduced a bit, but who is riding a GS at top speed? The harder acceleration at lower speeds is much more fun, IMO. Suspension mods will also help make the bike feel faster.

At the end of the day, I think if you really want to go fast with the GS, you're much better off improving your riding than you will be improving the bike.

I might point out that is is not a single good reason for NOT putting a GS1400 filter in, if you are rejetting or intending to. Flows better, will last much longer before restricting even to the stock level of a stock filter, fits straight in ( zero mods) . Using a stock paper filter (Get water on them and see what happens. And yes you mostly certainly can get water on even your stock filter, especially in a tropical downpour), it will be about the same price.
So explain to me where the good reason for not doing it is.

I don't think I suggested this was a bad idea. But it might require rejetting, and when you require rejetting it means you have reduced air velocity and may reduce vacuum. So you have to be attentive to that.

But I don't think there's any NEED for less intake air restriction, since this is not really a bottleneck in the GS AFAIK.

But yeah, I'll buy a GS1400 air filter element next time. I'm already up-jetted and probably the bike would run better with a different air filter.

Quote from: mr72 on February 26, 2018, 01:28:20 PM
I don't think there's any NEED for less intake air restriction, since this is not really a bottleneck in the GS AFAIK.

This is really where my stance on intake mods is. Why deviate from stock if it isn't really necessary?

Just because something isn't a bad idea, doesn't automatically make it a good idea.

Quote from: qcbaker on February 26, 2018, 01:51:07 PM
Why deviate from stock if it isn't really necessary?

Same goes for the exhaust.

And the reality is that in both cases it's possible to have a detrimental effect if you screw up vacuum, air velocity or scavenging.

It's just a tempting misunderstanding to think that somehow engineers left reliable horsepower on the table by choosing the wrong air filter or exhaust or etc. I mean, if the GS1400 air filter fits and makes more power without any downside why wouldn't they have put that in a GS500 to begin with?

The GS1400 air filter looks exactly like the GS500 air filter. So obviously it makes more power. Its 1400.
Cool.
Buddha.

It's longer, but still fits in. That's where it gets the extra filter area. the hole is bigger as well.
The point about pressure difference is very valid though for CV carbs. I got caught with this with a VTR250 I was racing. But that was due to the way the VTR carbs got their " atmospheric". It shouldn't be a problem with the gs carbs.

Oh OK, cant tell from pics. But I just put a brand new hiflofiltro (yea its higher flowing ... really it is, like the mighty Missipp) in mine so I guess I'm out of the bandwagon.
BTW The GS500 hiflo has a thicker wall diamond hatch mesh on the outer wall.
You drill a few tiny - like 6 holes @ the correct locations and wire tie the end plate to the wall. Now that would let you take it apart and put it back together.
Then after a few wash with gas and reuse on that filter you can dissolve the glue and the paper and the end cap will come unglued.
Now do that same process to the other end and your paper will be out, there on you can use simple UNI style foam cut to that size and wire tie it back together.
Cool.
Buddha.