Yeah has to be the oil
Absolutely no chance of it being down to....

Glazed, overheated, warped, plates and discs.
A ridged clutch basket.
A worn or partially seized actuator mechanism
Tired clutch springs
Bent or sticking push rod.
Failing release bearing.

The way we in here can diagnose and pinpoint faults in our bikes without any sort of inspection or examination is amazing. It would impress even the world's greatest doctors and surgeons 

It couldn't be the oil because over on the suzukisavage forum they've been recommending the rotella since forever mainly due to the high zinc because the tappets are more susceptible to wear, and I'd venture to say if it doesn't hurt the 30 year old savage clutch it's not going to hurt the 30 year old gs clutch.

I didn't intend to derail this oil thread into a is-the-clutch-worn-out thread.

FYI, I do think there's a fairly good chance (>50%) my clutch is nearing the end of its life. I also think there's a slight (20%) chance the clutch's misbehavior is exacerbated by my choice of oil, but not caused by it. IOW, if your clutch is on its way out, I think it makes sense that using full-synthetic Rotella will allow an iffy clutch to slip more than it would with a moto-specific conventional oil, but the oil choice is not causing or accelerating the clutch wear IMHO. It's actually more likely that it is prolonging the clutch's life even though it allows more slipping. In my case I am betting I will replace my GS long before the clutch gets worn enough to warrant replacement. If it was my sole source of transportation, I'd probably replace the clutch next weekend.

My main point was that oil choice can affect shifting and clutch behavior. That's all. Sorry again for the derailment.

Oil: Change it early, change it often. Your engine will thank you.

My bikes get Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic. Why? Because I pound the crap out of them and they work well with that oil. Mobil 1 synthetic is a good one, too; one of my buddies with a GSX-R1000 uses it.

mr72,
Might be worth checking your cable for a broken strand sticking into the outer of the ends,jic.

Does this oil meet the JASO and other required standards?

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Penrite-Full-Synthetic-Engine-Oil-10W-40-6-Litre/348769

Ah crap.

I've been putting olive oil into mine because I figured that's what the Italians used. Based on this thread, I might want to reconsider. It would explain why the bike has been burning so much oil, although on the plus side it smells fantastic.

Quote from: nit on May 14, 2018, 10:54:56 PM
Ah crap.

I've been putting olive oil into mine because I figured that's what the Italians used. Based on this thread, I might want to reconsider. It would explain why the bike has been burning so much oil, although on the plus side it smells fantastic.

Rookie mistake, only MV-Agustas can run olive oil.

I usually just stick to non-"economic" or "friction additives" oil that i can find for a decent price of one of the known oil brands, they usually here sell Valvoline really cheaply, which is car oil, but my previous 2 bikes never had any clutch problems. Though i do switch between 10W50(summer) and 10W40(winter), since i generally make enough miles to justify the changes that frequent. Otherwise(or if you're not on a tight budget, unlike a student like me  ) i'd just stick with 10W40 as suzuki suggests and is made for motorcycles.

" Does this oil meet the JASO and other required standards?"
If it has the JASO standard in the list of standards it meets then it does. I have used similar Penrite in my bikes. Good oil. never had any real problems. They make a few multivehicle oils that are fine with wet clutches. Only thing is the high zinc which I have gone off a bit after seeing some reports. Possibly fine for our old design  twin valve machine though.

Quote from: Watcher on May 15, 2018, 04:24:02 AM

Quote from: nit on May 14, 2018, 10:54:56 PM
Ah crap.

I've been putting olive oil into mine because I figured that's what the Italians used. Based on this thread, I might want to reconsider. It would explain why the bike has been burning so much oil, although on the plus side it smells fantastic.

Rookie mistake, only MV-Agustas can run olive oil.

Don't forget the Morbidelli V8 and spagthorpes (which as we all know cant countersteer) But spray olive oil on its tires and it will out counter steer anything right into the ditch.

Cool.
Buddha.

I prefer Hawian tropic.

I like the smell of coconut and it puts a lovely shine on the bodywork 

Quote from: sledge on May 15, 2018, 03:51:06 PM
I prefer Hawian tropic.

I like the smell of coconut and it puts a lovely shine on the bodywork 

He he, they would wax a vehicle with coconut oil back in the old days just before a sale. Those old bullets with black and those gold pin stripes would really pop with coconut oil. Of course as it collects dust it looks worse, but it worked cos lots of people bought em cos of how they looked.

Cool.
Buddha.

Quote from: Jimbob on May 14, 2018, 04:27:36 PM
Does this oil meet the JASO and other required standards?

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Penrite-Full-Synthetic-Engine-Oil-10W-40-6-Litre/348769

I've spoken to the Penrite oil techs who are very knowledgeable. Basically if it has m/cycle icon on the front then it's good for m/cycles.

EDIT: just noticed that it has JASO MA written on the label!


@gregjet, I need the zinc for our S40's flat tappets.

"@gregjet, I need the zinc for our S40's flat tappets."
I am on a mailing list for ultra performance engine stuff ( car, bike and aeroplane) and have seen a few articles on zinc in oil in modern motors ( of which the GS ISN'T). There can be problems with high zinc oils with wet clutches, as well ( not consistant and depends on the friction plate material) and also with plain bearings and low skirt pistons and complex-metal rings.  Mostly a recent thing. I used hi zinc oils in my Rodeo Diesel and the exconomy improved markedly which is why I became a fan originally. Now I am a little more careful.

@gregjet...

Noted.