This is a check I have never done. Haynes suggests you do it once a year.
They say the cylinder head is secured by "eight 10mm domed nuts and one 6mm nut".
You are supposed to slacken them all in a particular order and then tighten them again to their correct torque settings.

But I found that the "eight 10mm domed nuts" are actually 14mm and the "one 6mm nut" at the front is actually 10mm.
At the start of the chapter they give a 35-40nm torque setting for the "10mm" nuts and a 7-11nm torque setting for the "six mm" one.

So I am unsure what to do.
Anyone know the correct torque setting for these nuts?

They are the correct settings. The nut tightening order is marked on the block itself. I think you might be confusing the head size with the thread diameter.

Quote from: user11235813 on July 06, 2018, 05:40:27 PM
They are the correct settings. The nut tightening order is marked on the block itself. I think you might be confusing the head size with the thread diameter.

Thanks, I must be doing that. I guess these are the first nuts on the bike I've come across where the head is different to the the thread.

Well it looks like that front 6mm bolt is in too awkward a position to get any leverage on a torque wrench without taking the exhaust off which I don't want to do as the bolts are rusted and I want a shop to replace them. As the torque is so low, I might just nip it.

Well that's one more job done while I'm waiting for my carb to came back. Nearly gave up after the nuts were tight on there. Difficult to get off without a breaker bar which I must buy. Ended up using a spanner as an extension to get the leverage. They tightened much easier. Still managed to scuff up the nuts even though I had a great grip on them.