EDIT: See question about restrictor plates in post 7.

Guys, just got my carburettor back from the cleaners, Sent it off at the end of May. No bike all summer. There was a hold up because he had to order slide guides from a BMW dealer in Lithuania. Apparently they're hard to get.

Can't wait to get this back on the bike but how do I set the throttle cable slack? 

Here's the current slack. You think that is too much?



How do I tighten the slack?
There are three nuts.
One is hidden in the pic (you can just see half it) and then there are two on the left of the fixture. 
What way are you supposed to turn them to reduce slack?

That's WAY too much slack!

First make sure the adjuster at the grip is all the way in.

The nut closest to the carb is a locking nut.  You'll want to turn the nut just behind that one.  That will pull the jacket of the cable further back and draw the slack off the cable.
You'll want to set that so that you have about a 1/8" play in the throttle at the grip, then tighten the smaller nut against the carb to lock it all in place.

From there if the cable stretches you can adjust at the grip.

Quote from: Watcher on August 03, 2018, 05:14:53 PM
That's WAY too much slack!

First make sure the adjuster at the grip is all the way in.

The nut closest to the carb is a locking nut.  You'll want to turn the nut just behind that one.  That will pull the jacket of the cable further back and draw the slack off the cable.
You'll want to set that so that you have about a 1/8" play in the throttle at the grip, then tighten the smaller nut against the carb to lock it all in place.

From there if the cable stretches you can adjust at the grip.

Cheers for the help, think I understand but just so I'm clear, I've labelled the parts.



So I turn the large nut marked 1 that and the object is to pull the threaded bit marked 4 towards the left in the picture to tighten slack?

you got it and when you are done tighten nut number 2.

Sorry for the late reply, you got it, and thanks for Grader for confirmation 

One more thing, when the bike is all buttoned up check to make sure steering all the way left/right doesn't automatically apply throttle.
That would indicate insufficient slack in the cable, but it's sometimes a symptom of routing the cable incorrectly.

Let us know if you have any further issues.

Quote from: grader on August 03, 2018, 10:45:14 PM
you got it and when you are done tighten nut number 2.

Quote from: Watcher on August 03, 2018, 11:12:01 PM
Sorry for the late reply, you got it, and thanks for Grader for confirmation 

One more thing, when the bike is all buttoned up check to make sure steering all the way left/right doesn't automatically apply throttle.
That would indicate insufficient slack in the cable, but it's sometimes a symptom of routing the cable incorrectly.

Let us know if you have any further issues.

Cheers guys.

This look better? Note the way the bolts on the left are are. They aren't seated against eachother. 



Trying to push the carbs back onto their boots. Harder than I thought. Had to get some help. I have the airbox on them so that makes it harder to get a grip on them to pull back.

This was as far as I was able to pull them on. You think they are on far enough? Can someone please check their bike and compare it to mine? Should there be no gap? The screw holes on the airbox line up with their holes on the frame but I didn't hear a pop like one video suggested I would hear when the carbs are seated properly.








Forgot to put a clip on the centre hose so I might pull them off again if I can't get it on while the carbs are on the bike or I might just leave it.

If they won't go in any further, they're in. I don't recall any special noise when reseating the carbs.

Quote from: Kookas on August 04, 2018, 08:10:41 AM
If they won't go in any further, they're in. I don't recall any special noise when reseating the carbs.

Took them off again, removed the airbox, put the fuel hose clip on and put them on without the airbox so I had plenty of grip to push them on. 
There was a slight pop sound, though you might not hear it if they are pushed on slowly.





This seems to be as flush as they get.

However, I was searching the forum and this post says that these are restrictor plates.



Should I remove them?
This is an EU bike. Nobody told me it was restricted when I bought it second hand.  Is it an emissions thing?

Here's the info I received from the guy who was rebuilding my carbs about the new jets:

QuoteThe codes on your carbs are not listed in the Suzuki manual, so I've set them up according to the EU/UK model specs.
The needle is now one position richer as per the Suzuki manual. The floats are set to the stock height and the pilot screws at 2.25 turns.
The main jets in the king are also slightly bigger, but the difference is minimal (#120 up from #117.5).
The carbs are bench balanced, bug may benefit from balancing on the bike, idle will need to be set, but has been approximated.
I suspect your model year was set up a bit lean to meet increasing emissions requirements, so hopefully it will run better than new. If not, put the needles back on clip position 3.

Quote from: Toner on August 04, 2018, 09:24:36 AMShould I remove them?

YES!!!!

And then throw them into the ocean....where salt water will eventually make them disappear off the face of the earth.....Pure Evil!

Quote from: Suzuki Stevo on August 04, 2018, 10:08:41 AM

Quote from: Toner on August 04, 2018, 09:24:36 AMShould I remove them?

YES!!!!

And then throw them into the ocean....where salt water will eventually make them disappear off the face of the earth.....Pure Evil!

Well that's fairly emphatic.  I'll take your advice but I'll keep 'em just in case.

Quote from: Toner on August 04, 2018, 10:22:47 AMWell that's fairly emphatic.  I'll take your advice but I'll keep 'em just in case.

Look at the size of the hole with the restrictor plate in place...imagine that as the amount of FUN you have had riding a restricted GS.
Now remove the restrictor plate and then look at the size of the hole...the new hole size is proportional to the amount of FUN you will have riding your GS now 

Wow, that's rough. More than likely something for an A2 restriction - I think the UK's used to be lower? Definitely burn in a fire.

Well got her all back together and took her out. Can't really tell if she has more bite. I'll have to take her out for a longer ride tomorrow for more testing. It's late here now. 
Low gears would bog a bit though. She stalled twice when I was stopped but I was messing with the idle so maybe that was it.

Those 120 Jets will still be a bit lean. What size pilot Jets? How did you set the idle?

Still lean?

This is the guy who did the carb work for Toner, on my recommendation. He is one of the most knowledgeable and respected carb guys in the Uk.

Given your limited experience and habit of of overlooking some of the most important aspects of carb overhauls are you really saying he got it wrong.

Don't embarrass yourself 


https://m.harpers-ultrasonic.com/Home---Ultrasonic-Cleaning.html

Took her out for a big long spin, motorways and the works on an absolutely stunning day here.   
Bike is working great. Didn't have one problem, no stalls, nothing. I think the bogging problem is gone.
I think I have the idle set fine.

Quote from: sledge on August 05, 2018, 09:32:38 AM
https://m.harpers-ultrasonic.com/Home---Ultrasonic-Cleaning.html

@Toner Out of interest, how much did the complete carb cleaning come to in the end? I remember you posted before saying you had to pay extra for new slides or something too, so was that a big portion of the end cost?

It's £90 for a basic clean and overhaul. plus any postage costs. Least it was about 6 months ago when Mat last did a set for me. For that I got the carbs split, dismantled, inspected and ultrasonically cleaned. ALL the orings, the chamber gaskets, the fuel rail seals and the choke plunger seals were replaced.

Worn slides, needles, jets, emulsion tubes, diaphragms, throttle spindles and seals, springs, linkage parts etc will bump the price up.

Give him a call and ask him, he really does know his stuff and is a nice guy to deal with.

Downside is that he is always busy and you will probably have to wait a few weeks for him to do the work 

I say don't fix what ain't broke.

Quote from: max on August 05, 2018, 12:41:05 PM

Quote from: sledge on August 05, 2018, 09:32:38 AM
https://m.harpers-ultrasonic.com/Home---Ultrasonic-Cleaning.html

@Toner Out of interest, how much did the complete carb cleaning come to in the end? I remember you posted before saying you had to pay extra for new slides or something too, so was that a big portion of the end cost?

Here is the cost breakdown I got:

Cleaning £60.00
Rebuild kits £63.04
Slide inserts £69.03
Post £16.00

Total: £208.27

which is about €250 or $270

He did a quality job shipping it back with polystyrene inserts holding it study and loads of bubble wrap. Plus he sent all the old stuff he took out in a ziplock bag which was cool.