Hi all, first post. Not sure if this is the right place for it, but...

Don't have a gs, might go look at a rough 2004 with no fairings and a bbq grill paint job.

I've been riding for about 10 years, had enduros, standards, tourers, cruisers, full on sport bikes, ranging from ~12hp to 193rwhp.

Now I'm on a 110hp, 850lb touring cruiser (which I really like, surprisingly) and am considering a gs500 as an economical bike to try and build my skills and push my riding envelope with. I feel that some of my perishable skills have faded as I transitioned into cruiser riding, and I want something capable of being really cranked over to mess around with. I'm not looking for a hyper-speed super sport though.

My question is, do you guys think a naked gs is suitable? I would likely do fork springs, a shock, and good tires. Or am I barking up the wrong tree? Thanks in advance.

In my opinion, hell yes. Obviously, if you want to push the limit of the rider/bike combination, you have two points of improvement. Bike and rider. If you cap the bike, you'll be forced to improve the rider. The average rider will never reach the limits of their bikes, simply because they don't have the skill level to do what the bike could, theoretically, do.

So if you're thinking about improving your own skills on a more sportier ride, then hell yes, the GS500 is excellent.

Why? Exactly for the same reason as why it's a good beginner's bike. It's forgiving, it has a smooth power distribution, it is easy to mod/change, and it's a twin. Torque in the lower end, not too high a top speed. If you want to know what you can do with a "measly" 500cc bike, check out Schaaf on Youtube. He rocks his CB500 and not many people will out-ride him on the thing, especially not the way he rode before his accident.

Definitely upgrade the fork springs and the rear shock. Lineair is supposedly best if you actually intend to ride it hard instead of comfortable, but you can get a pretty good corner on progressive fork springs as well, I know from experience. The R6 rear shock is a good upgrade because it's very adjustable, which would be perfect for sportier riding. Upgrade the brake lines with steel braided ones and revise your front calliper at the very least. You only have one. Any air in the system makes is mushy, so make sure to really bleed the system well. Get a good chain and sprockets and regularly check them (also the front sprocket). Make sure all regular maintenance (by interval) is been kept up with. You could consider a thicker fork brace if you're a bit heavier. I also have the forks protruding from the steering stem plate a bit, to make it more happy to fall into corners. If you intend to ride track with it, consider crash bars and securing important nuts and bolts with pins or something.

Heck yea and don't put your cruiser down. I had some great fun on my Electraglide pushing myself to make it do what I wanted it to do!

Thanks guys, this seems like a great, active forum.

I personally prefer straight rate springs to progressives.

I love my VN2000, I find It makes me ride more often and further, because I don't fatigue on it. It's also just a cool, unique ride, and startlingly quick off the line for a half-ton of chrome and leather.

Looking at tires, it seems like upping to a 140 section rear really opens up some higher tier tires. Does the 10mm jump to 140 really slow the bike down turning or negatively effect front to rear tire ratio, if anyone has any experience with 140s?

My GS is the faired version but "cheap sportbike" is exactly how I use mine lol.

I didn't like a 140 on the rear. It made it fall into corners weirdly and it felt uneasy throughout the whole corner. I never once thought "oh jolly, this is better on a 140!". Went back to a 130 and I'll never go back to a 140. I'm running Dunlop Arrowmax Streetsmart right now and I love the things. They're not really good when cold, especially if it's wet, but when warmed up they're like glue. Incredible tyres. You can also go for some Michelin thingy I think, at least, my final choice was between the Dunlops and some Michelin Pilot somethings, I think. I originally wanted the Pirelli Sport Demons, but was told they no longer make the 130 rear tyre of that model.

Quote from: Sarasi on August 23, 2018, 06:10:34 AM
I didn't like a 140 on the rear. It made it fall into corners weirdly and it felt uneasy throughout the whole corner....I originally wanted the Pirelli Sport Demons, but was told they no longer make the 130 rear tyre of that model.

Didn't you have a 140/80? That may be part of the weird feeling. Most who tried a 140 and liked it used a 140/70. In fact that's what I'm planning to get Real Soon Now.

AFAIK they do make Pirelli Sport Demon in 130/70-17, which I discovered since that's the rear tire match for what I have in front. The Michelin Pilot Street Radial is said to last a lot longer and I can't get anyone to agree that the Sport Demons perform better, so I'm planning to get a Michelin instead of a Pirelli for the rear, but in 140/70-17.

Quote from: mr72 on August 23, 2018, 06:18:18 AM

Quote from: Sarasi on August 23, 2018, 06:10:34 AM
I didn't like a 140 on the rear. It made it fall into corners weirdly and it felt uneasy throughout the whole corner....I originally wanted the Pirelli Sport Demons, but was told they no longer make the 130 rear tyre of that model.

Didn't you have a 140/80? That may be part of the weird feeling. Most who tried a 140 and liked it used a 140/70. In fact that's what I'm planning to get Real Soon Now.

AFAIK they do make Pirelli Sport Demon in 130/70-17, which I discovered since that's the rear tire match for what I have in front. The Michelin Pilot Street Radial is said to last a lot longer and I can't get anyone to agree that the Sport Demons perform better, so I'm planning to get a Michelin instead of a Pirelli for the rear, but in 140/70-17.

Yes, it was a 140/80. Might have something to do with it indeed. I thought they made the Sport Demon in 130/70/17 as well, but my shop said they couldn't order them anymore, and they were willing to stick with the Pirelli price while upgrading me to any other set of tyres. I ended up choosing the Dunlops because the shop is a Triumph dealer and he'd heard really good things about the Dunlops from Bonneville riders. These tyres are specifically made for oldtimery bikes. I figured that bike is kind of similar in weight, handling and all that shizz that I'd give it a try. I wanted something that was solid in the rain and this fit that prerequisite. I'll definitely get a new set without thinking twice if this set's done.

But whatever you do, don't get ContiGo's. 

I have sport demons on my kz650 roadburner and like them. About the sportiest classic/bias tire you can get I think. Not great life though if you run hard in a straight line.

It's obviously not a super sport. But it's no slouch while being pretty mild-mannered at the same time.  It handles great, has fair brakes and decent power.  The rest is up to you.  In short it's a great entry to mid-level sport bike that doesn't look too much like a sport bike.  Just what you describe yourself to be looking for.

Like yourself, I've had a bunch of bikes of all different sorts and sizes and I'm really enjoying the GS.  It's handled every road I've thrown at it with grace and aplomb, and asked for more.

FWIW I upgraded the rear shock on my GS to a Kat600 shock soon after I got it but only recently upgraded the front springs to match. Boy what a night and day difference. It's my opinion that these should be upgraded together. The amount of confidence I have cornering has increased dramatically. I'm sure the bike could do the same thing with the original springs it just didn't FEEL like it.

I concur. I first upgraded the front and a while later (idk, a month, maybe two?) the rear. I would suggest riding a bit inbetween though, rather than changing them at exactly the same time. It's good to feel what a difference both make for your bike, individually, so that you can later on diagnose problems with your suspension more easily (differentiating between front and back).

Quote from: Cincykz on August 23, 2018, 04:33:54 AM
My question is, do you guys think a naked gs is suitable? I would likely do fork springs, a shock, and good tires. Or am I barking up the wrong tree? Thanks in advance.

Hi Cincykz,

I have done (still doing!) your plan! And is perfect!

I decided to buy a GS for 2 main reasons... learn mechanics without  having the fear of disassembly a 3000 dollars engine and also ride my bike without concerns of scratch, fall, crash or  explode it 

Planning to start track days with my GS in a few couples of months... just need to buy a trailer first

I have mine gs for a 14 months... I already can tell you ..Gs is a hell of a teacher... as old timers here used to say: its engine is bullet proof.. simply unbelievable! And have a friendly mechanics (2 cyl. 4 valves, air cooled and no electronics)

In these 14 months.. I have disassembled almost every bike piece... for me, it was a game changer... when you know EXACLY how each part of your bike works...  simply beatiful.

Another thing is this GS forum... is priceless. Really helpful and smart members...

The only drawback.. at least here in Brazil.. is the OEM parts prices... not nice  at all

But at least I do everything on my own... while having a beer! 

I am impressed with that level of dissasembly!

Well, I got one! 2004 gs500f minus the f
It's super rough cosmetically, signals don't work, no fairings, deck light for a headlight, mismatched tires black spraypaint job, scratched cases, won't start, supposedly 3k miles.

I really know how to pick 'em!

I got it to run when I got it home, but only while hooked up to a jump. Battery is dead dead. Didn't want to idle too long. Very mechanically quiet though, sounded new and smooth.

Let the tinkering begin...

Question: when up on the center stand, should both tites be down? Seemed odd to me. Rear is touching or just about touching depending on the ground.

Thanks, Pat

Hi Cincykz!

On level ground, with everything stock (tire size, shock, dogbones, etc.) the rear wheel should be off the ground. I'd say about a half inch IIRC, give or take... letting the rear wheel free to spin.

Hmm, my wheel spins on a perfect level with just about 0 clearance, but my back tire is a 140.

Put a new battery in today and got it running poorly for a couple minutes but couldn't keep it running. I'm guessing the carbs are gummed up.  The bottom finger screw (idle I assume) was all the way out and made no contact with the throttle mechanism. I had it going feathering choke and throttle for probably three or four minutes, but had to start it several times. Eventually it would not start back up. 

I see I have a k&n filter in the airbox.
There is also a fuel filter on one of the fuel lines, the one that comes off of the longer chicken.

I guess I will be pulling the carbs off tomorrow for a cleaning. Are the ebay rebuild kits considered acceptable for rubbers and things, or are they probably subpar?

I did get the deck light off the front of the bike and put on a daymaker LED in an ebay bucket, and it looks pretty good! Still have to wire it in, the PO cut off the female three prong for the headlight and just braided in the deck light and taped it up.

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If your rear tyre is a 140/80, then it should still spin freely on the center stand, but with next to no clearance.