How hard is it to adjust valves? Is it a shims/bucket combo? Also, are the shims beneath the cams? WOuld you recommend doing this kind of work at home when you have little motorcycle wrenching time? Worth takign to someone?

jon

Shims are on top of the buckets, right under the cams... the job is very very easy... I can do it all in 20 mins. even if you take a whole afternoon... its worth it. You need that suzuki tappet depressing tool, and some tweezers and feeler guages... down to that 1 thou thickness other than the sockets, cresents and allen wrenches.
Cool.
Srinath.

Looks like it is pretty easy from the "how to pages".

Thanks everyone that has taken the time to put these "how to" pages together for us newbies.

jnosal
Yellow 99 GS500E

Quote from: seshadri_srinathShims are on top of the buckets, right under the cams... the job is very very easy... I can do it all in 20 mins. even if you take a whole afternoon... its worth it. You need that suzuki tappet depressing tool, and some tweezers and feeler guages... down to that 1 thou thickness other than the sockets, cresents and allen wrenches.
Cool.
Srinath.

Were do you get the depressing tool?

I got mine from Dennis Kirk.  It's part number 28-270.  Here's the direct link.  The picture shows all of the valve shim tools they offer in a single view.  The Suzuki-appropriate tool is the one on the far left.  Here's a close up.

If you aren't comfortable with spending $33.99 + shipping on a tool like this, you can:

* Think of all the money it will save you over having it done at the shop.
* Make your own (see

Adjusting The Valves - need more specific info)
* Borrow one?[/list:u]Good Luck!

I just finished doing mine and it took about the whole afternoon.  But I did do a couple other things at the same time.  

I wouldn't even think of getting a mechanic (pick pocket) to do this work.  I'm sure there's good mechanics out there but seems like everytime I take my car in I have to take it back because some @$$hole stripped my wheel nuts or forgot a few bolts or something.  

To get at the shims, you need to remove the battery and tank and finally the breather cover and valve cover.  Perhaps there are some shortcuts in the how-to section.  I didn't have to change the shims so that was good.  

I used some RTV silicone when putting the valve cover back on.  It looks like that's what was on there before.  Clymer manual recommends using Suzuki bond - something.  You may want to pick some up before you start the job.

Two questions, 500rider:

1) Your bike is a 2000 model and so it should be just like my '99.  Just wondering why you removed the battery...?

2) I don't have my Clymer here at work, so I'll look it up at home, but...  did they recommend putting the sealant between the gasket and the valve cover, or between the gasket and the engine block, or both?  I do the former and not the latter, but I haven't run across that blurb in the manual yet.  (I used my Haynes manual when I did this the first time.  I don't think they mentioned it at all - I got the tip from this board.   )[/list:u]

Quote from: KerryTwo questions, 500rider:

1) Your bike is a 2000 model and so it should be just like my '99.  Just wondering why you removed the battery...?

2) I don't have my Clymer here at work, so I'll look it up at home, but...  did they recommend putting the sealant between the gasket and the valve cover, or between the gasket and the engine block, or both?  I do the former and not the latter, but I haven't run across that blurb in the manual yet.  (I used my Haynes manual when I did this the first time.  I don't think they mentioned it at all - I got the tip from this board.   )[/list:u]

1. You might be able to do up the screws for the tank closest to the battery without removing it but for the 10 seconds it takes to remove the battery it made the job a lot easier.  It just gives you more room to insert the screws and use a socket instead of a wrench.  

2.  The Clymer manual pg 106 recommends putting the sealant in the groove of the valve cover as well as around the camshaft endcaps (of the gasket).  I put some around the camshaft end caps as there was some there previously.  I didn't put any in the groove since there was none there B4 and it never leaked.