Thanks!

Went a little crazy on babbits and ebay...
Fork oil/dust seals, oem oil + air filters, carb rebuild kits, chain adjuster plates(one of mine is bent into the swingarm-scary), side emblem, exhaust bolts and gaskets, misc orings and gaskets for the oil filter, drain plug, etc.

I got a used front master cylinder with lever for $23 shipped (mine appears jb-welded and has a broken lever)

A used rear rotor (mine is grooved terribly) for $30 and some new ceramic pads for the back. My front brakes look like they've never been used, might explain the crash...)

Drag bar! Bareley fits, and controls need tweaking. But it looks cool, and feels right.

Howdy, working on cleaning my carbs (don't really know what I'm doing). What is this white plastic piece from the top cap of the carb? One of the hose nipples is broken off and filled in with a wood screw. Inside the white plastic piece are a rubber diaphragm, a metal cap, and a spring.  The bike would barely run and quit after a minute no matter what I do, thus the carb cleaning.
What is this thing, do I need a non broken one, and where can I get one?

Every turn on fixing up this bike reveals another maintenance disaster left by the p.o.(s?)

Any help greatly appreciated

Quote from: Cincykz on September 06, 2018, 10:49:39 AM
Howdy, working on cleaning my carbs (don't really know what I'm doing)

This is the only way to propper learning... try and exchange ideas!!! and spend some money 

My carb is different than yours.... this part makes no sense to me... in a few minutes, some folk will help you through.

stay positive!

Try to find it on a parts catalogue

Thanks Kito!

Sorry folks, I do believe that it is factory with the screw like that. Found a youtube video that shows it the same way.

False alarm, disregard last!

I actually don't think that screw is stock.  But in any event, those white discs aren't necessary and your bike will run OK with them blocked off.

If I understand things correctly, those white discs are part of the PAIR / emissions system of the bike.  They prevent the slides from bouncing up too high, by regulating the vacuum above the diaphragm.

There are a lot of posts about getting rid of as many vacuum lines as possible (I wrote some as well).  This may help to eliminate a lot of the vacuum gremlins our bikes deal with.  My bike still runs fine without those white discs, along with no petcock, PAIR solenoid etc...

Hmm, intruiging...

I think endo is right, that's part of the PAIR system which does no harm but still many people see fit to remove it. Capping the port with a screw seems like part of a removal attempt.

Ummm.....

Interesting development(s)

The second carb I did, the mid main jet (60) was not screwed into its spot, but rather was loose in the float bowl. Carbs all cleaned, new orings, etc. I also did not have the tiny orings under the top covers (they are there now).  I used the K&L kits.

Put everything back together, no start. I went to check and see if i had fuel in the bowls by draining the left one. It drained gas indefinitely. I had to close the screw. At least a pint. Checked the right carb, couple of drops, then dry. Left carb again, dripping indefinitely. 

I'm guessing I messed something up. Lol.

Any gurus can point me in the right direction? I think I will order the haynes book.

Thanks folks

Huge amount of fuel from left carb, and jet loose as it was when i pulled the bowl.

Did you shut off the fuel petcock before draining it?  All that gas came from somewhere.  The only place that much could come from would be the tank.  Either you forgot and left it in prime, or your petcock isn't working properly.  Also your right carb has either a stuck needle valve, severely maladjusted float, or the supply line is somehow blocked.  In your rebuild, did you replace the needle valves and seats?  If not, you should.  While you have them out, blow a bit of air through the passage to make sure they're clear.  Then check/set the float height and verify fuel level (and presence) once they're back in place.

I did replace the needle valves and seats. I noticed the old ones were marked 1.5 and the new ones 2.0, opening in the new ones did appear slightly larger. Anybody know which size is correct?  I thought the float heights looked about right, but to be honest I'm not sure if I measured correctly.  Thanks for the help!

Quote from: Cincykz on September 08, 2018, 01:17:56 AM
I did replace the needle valves and seats. I noticed the old ones were marked 1.5 and the new ones 2.0, opening in the new ones did appear slightly larger. Anybody know which size is correct?  I thought the float heights looked about right, but to be honest I'm not sure if I measured correctly.  Thanks for the help!

I've never noticed they were marked or came in different sizes.  Could be wrong but I wouldn't think their size would be important since they're just allowing fuel to flow into the bowl until the float shuts it off at the correct level.  So long as inflowing fuel can keep up with demand, ie: fuel being sucked out of the bowl through the jets, you should be fine.

As Kilted pointed...

The problem seems to be not on the carb that the gas went indefinitely, but the other that was dry.

If the gas start to leak from the carbs apertures (holes).. then also can be a float/seating problem.

check if the pieces are seating properly.. and see if the floats have different adjusts 

( if you dont have this on paper right beside you... now is time to print or buy one)
http://forum.gs500.pl/ftp/Studi/Suzuki_GS_500_E_F_1989-2009_Service_Manual.pdf

Carb is the first thing that everyone struggles... I can tell you. lol

http://www.bbburma.net/FloatHeight.htm

Kito, that's a great link.  Thank you! My floats seem to be correct.

Update on the bike:  Last night I screwed the throttle stop/idle adjust all the way out, put the choke on full, and pushed the starter.  Bike started right up like a new bike.  Hmm... 

Ran an idled, warmed it up a bit.  Idled ok with no choke (tach doesn't seem to work) I was able to limp up the road, bike will move under its own power, but throttle has to be nursed.  On an idle, a rev and release causes a hang and slow return to idle.

I also received a Haynes manual and a bunch of parts yesterday (filters, gaskets, fork seals and dust covers, swingarm alignment plates to replace the bent ones from my bike's apparent past life of botched wheelies....) 

I realized from the Haynes diagram that the oring on the main jet/holder/needle jet assembly was in the WRONG place (squeezed between the jet and holder instead of between the holder and the needle jet.  I am going to go correct that now.  It didn't look right when I saw it the first time, but without a good reference I didn't figure it out.

My jet needles are marked 5DH59.  This doesn't match anything else that I've seen, is this definitely incorrect?  Shop manual shows 5DH91.

Out tinkering.  Thanks again folks for all your help, I hope to be a resource to others on this forum some day like you guys are to me.

Ugh. Made it worse somehow
I believe those orings are in the right place. Upon putting everything back together, realized that i had no hose plugged back into the black plastic electrical component under the right carb..... Bike runs worse now, barely started, then stalled, lots of backfires.

What plugs into that black plastic thing with the brass projection (bolted under right carb, has 2 other vacuum hoses plugged into it) Thanks folks...

Update - vacuum petcock wasnt functioning properly. Back working. Finally got it running almost as it should. Still not quite perfect, but ridable. Will idle about 1150rpm and pulls reasonably smoothly. Changed the oil, it was awful, probably 20% gas and full of sludge. I'm confident enough in
it's running mechanics to put tires on it now... Needs a chain too. Will probably do fork seals and new front mc in the morning. I guess the time has come to order fork springs too....

Also, my speedo rests at 30mph and climbs from there. Are these servicable or tamperproof by design? Odo still works proper, I'd rather not loose the 3.5k odo...

Clacking from top end after revving? If idling fully warm and i rev to about 5k i get a couple of faint clacks from the top end, on the way back down as rpm drops. Not too loud, just a clack clack clack as revs settle back from 5k to idle. I'm all stock and suspect with pods or a pipe you probably wouldn't hear it unless you were listening to the valve cover.

Happens in neutral or in gear with clutch pulled.

Any ideas? Valve clearance? Cam chain? Hopefully not a shredded motor, I just ordered $400 in tires, suspension, and chain :/