Quote from: qcbaker on October 04, 2018, 06:13:42 AM
If the soot is dry, the plugs are definitely carbon fouled. This happens when the fuel in the cylinder is not fully combusted, usually a result of a rich fuel:air mixture. I would say that is most likely because of all the starting attempts with the choke on. When the choke is on, the mixture is richer than normal, to help the bike start when cold. Normally, this is temporary and the mixture returns to normal once the choke is backed off after the bike warms up. Any residue usually gets burned off while the bike is running normally. But, if the bike doesn't start and never gets to warm up, the residue left on the plugs is not burned away and the plugs end up dirty like that.

Like herennow, if it were my bike, I would also suspect the battery as the culprit. A weak battery causing weak or no spark could create this situation. However, if you previously had another battery go bad after a month of being used on this bike, I would say that its also possible that you may have a wiring problem. Perhaps there is a short something that is draining your battery even when the bike is off. This would be that "parasitic load" that guy told you about. Fixing it would require you to inspect the bike's electrical system. First thing I would do is inspect all the wiring and make sure it's all intact. If you don't notice any immediate issues, you'll need to get a multimeter to investigate further.

Are those plugs still usable (can I clean them) or should I buy new ones?
What is ideal  RPM for bike to idle once the choke is backed off?

I got one problem-I'm terrible when it comes to electronic.
Can you tell me what does I need to measure once I get multimeter except battery and what reading should I expect?
After I recharged battery and after I put it in bike when should I measure it-when it's fully charged,half charged or...?
Do you have some good youtube video that I could watch to get the picture?
Sorry,but I was never good at electric stuff.

You can brush the carbon residue off with an old toothbrush or similar.  At this point I'd go ahead and reuse the plugs, at least until you get the bike running again.  The carbon means you're running a bit rich as qcbaker said.  Probably not a big deal at this point but worth checking up on when you have it running again.  It never hurts to have new plugs though. 

You'll need to get new screws for the carb bowl drains.  They're not just a regular screw.  A motorcycle shop should have them or you can order online.

Quote from: Petar on October 04, 2018, 06:36:10 AM
Are those plugs still usable (can I clean them) or should I buy new ones?

Those plugs don't look ruined to me, just a bit dirty. So you should be able to simply clean them. There are many ways to do it and I'm not really sure what would be considered the "proper" way, but what I would do is take a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper and lightly rub the electrodes to clean the soot off. Don't rub too hard, you're not trying to actually sand down the metal, just clean the surface. Then, blow off any loose dust left on the plug. That should get them clean enough to spark properly, and if you get the bike back to running normally, the other residue should eventually burn off as you ride.

Quote
What is ideal RPM for bike to idle once the choke is backed off?

I would consider anything between 1200-1400 RPM a normal idle speed.

When I cold-start my bike with full choke, the bike will usually start with the idle pretty low, around 2K, but over a few seconds of running (or if I blip the throttle), it rises to around 3.5-4K, and then rises slowly from there as the bike warms up. Once the bike is warm enough to idle normally, the revs are around 4.5-5K. Then, I back the choke all the way off an my bike idles around 1300.

Quote
I got one problem-I'm terrible when it comes to electronic.
Can you tell me what does I need to measure once I get multimeter except battery and what reading should I expect?
After I recharged battery and after I put it in bike when should I measure it-when it's fully charged,half charged or...?
Do you have some good youtube video that I could watch to get the picture?
Sorry,but I was never good at electric stuff.

Unfortunately, I am far from an expert in this area as well. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than me will chime in to help as well. I can only tell you what I would do if it were my bike. What I would do first is measure the voltage that the battery produces at rest, not connected to the bike. If the voltage doesn't match what the battery should be producing, you'll know the battery is bad and will most likely need replaced. A correct reading doesn't necessarily prove it ISN'T a bad battery, but its a start. You really should have the battery load tested to know if its truly good. I don't know what the situation in Croatia is, but in the US, most auto parts stores can perform a battery load test for you, usually for little to no money. If you can have the battery load tested, I highly recommend it. Its really the only way to know for sure if the battery is behaving as it should.

If you can verify the battery itself is good, the next thing I would do is connect it to the bike with the ignition in the OFF position, then measure the voltage. If it's lower than normal when connected with the bike off, then I would think that would indicate that it is under some kind of load, which would mean you have some electrical problem that is draining the battery even when the bike is off. Where to go from there I am less sure. You'd have to go through all the wiring and see if you can find where the problem is, but I am not really experienced enough with these kinds of issues to give you good advice about it. Sorry :/

Kilted1 I will try to clean plugs,but I would feel safer if I just buy new ones.
Is it possible that plugs create that popping sound from exhaust?
I will take drain screws too.

qcbaker I will clean them,but like I said to Kilted1 I'm afraid that it may cause exhaust popping,so I'm not sure will cleaning them help with exhaust popping?
Thanks for explaining idle speed.I always ride with choke almost fully ON because I read it's recommended.I will warm it up like you do next time.
However does running bike with choke constantly turn to half damages the bike?

You gave me good idea to take battery to car mechanic and that's exactly what I'll do tomorrow and I'll get back here with results.


Thanks to both of you once again 

Quote from: Petar on October 04, 2018, 10:33:30 AM
qcbaker I will clean them,but like I said to Kilted1 I'm afraid that it may cause exhaust popping,so I'm not sure will cleaning them help with exhaust popping?

Cleaning the plugs shouldn't really affect the popping one way or the other. The plugs being dirty in the first place is a product of the bike running rich, which is also what causes the exhaust popping. Which brings me to this:

Quote
Thanks for explaining idle speed.I always ride with choke almost fully ON because I read it's recommended.I will warm it up like you do next time.
However does running bike with choke constantly turn to half damages the bike?

You ride with the choke on all the time?? No wonder your plugs are all dirty! The choke is only supposed to be used while the bike is warming up. It should be turned fully off once the bike is able to idle unassisted. If you've been riding with it half on or more all the time, that's probably why your plugs are all fouled up, and that's probably the source of the popping/backfiring you mentioned. The choke makes the bike run rich. The reason for this is because when the bike is cold, the air:fuel ratio is much leaner than normal. The choke acts as a counter balance to this and helps the bike to start. But, once the bike warms up, this additional enrichment is no longer needed. Keeping the choke on after the bike is warm makes it run extremely rich, which is what causes the fouling and the popping/backfiring.

Another thing: if you were riding around with the choke on all the time, how was your idle speed not crazy high? Did you use the idle adjust screw to lower the idle? If so, that could be contributing to your problems.

Well that's explains a lot.
I ride for short distance,maybe 1,5-2 miles to work and back home.I work on night hours so one of main reasons for buying bike was there are no buses that could drop me near work.
Since I ride at night (2:00pm) I tend to warm bike as short as possible because I don't wanna wake up my neighbors.

Idle speed was high,but I haven't turn on choke fully,only 1/2 or even 1/3.
I haven't messed with idle screw.

Quote from: Petar on October 04, 2018, 01:16:40 PM
Well that's explains a lot.
I ride for short distance,maybe 1,5-2 miles to work and back home.I work on night hours so one of main reasons for buying bike was there are no buses that could drop me near work.
Since I ride at night (2:00pm) I tend to warm bike as short as possible because I don't wanna wake up my neighbors.

Idle speed was high,but I haven't turn on choke fully,only 1/2 or even 1/3.
I haven't messed with idle screw.

In that distance the bike is no where near fully warmed up, so having the choke on isn't unreasonable.  It's barely enough distance to recharge the battery after starting.

I'd also suggest taking your battery to have it load tested.  Ideally where you can see the tester.  Some places will take it to a back room or behind the counter and then tell you it was bad but you don't really know.  Best to have it fully charged for testing too.

Once you have it running again, it would do your bike (and maybe you as well) good to take it out for a longer ride now and then.

Quote from: Kilted1 on October 04, 2018, 09:29:52 PM

Quote from: Petar on October 04, 2018, 01:16:40 PM
Well that's explains a lot.
I ride for short distance,maybe 1,5-2 miles to work and back home.I work on night hours so one of main reasons for buying bike was there are no buses that could drop me near work.
Since I ride at night (2:00pm) I tend to warm bike as short as possible because I don't wanna wake up my neighbors.

Idle speed was high,but I haven't turn on choke fully,only 1/2 or even 1/3.
I haven't messed with idle screw.

In that distance the bike is no where near fully warmed up, so having the choke on isn't unreasonable.  It's barely enough distance to recharge the battery after starting.

I'd also suggest taking your battery to have it load tested.  Ideally where you can see the tester.  Some places will take it to a back room or behind the counter and then tell you it was bad but you don't really know.  Best to have it fully charged for testing too.

Once you have it running again, it would do your bike (and maybe you as well) good to take it out for a longer ride now and then.

Thanks for info.
I wanted to take battery to testing to nearby car shop,but they told me they only work with cars.
I'll need to either wait for Tuesday (there is national holiday in Monday) for other shops to open,or try to find someone who works on Saturday.
I forgot to mention that I spoke with my friend today who told me that something is draining my battery.
Then I remembered that I have some sort of alarm that sometimes goes ON when I use right signal turning light.
I also have 12v outlet for charging cell phones,I think it's called cigarette holder,and I have gear indicator.
Is it possible that one or more of this things causing battery to drain?

I would like to unplug it all (maybe no gear indicator)but I don't know where is cigarette holder's connected to bike (it goes beneath tank),and same goes for alarm.
Do you perhaps know where are they supposed to be located?

PS

I put battery in bike today (fully charged)and it needed cca. 40 seconds of holding clutch and start button before bike started.Lights worked when I turned key tho.
Then I tried to pull choke off,but it's seems that choke isn't working.
I pull it back and forward,but bike's revs weren't changing.
Bike was barley 1k at idle.

Do you perhaps know cause of these problems?


EDIT/UPDATE:I went to turn On bike today,and it didin't want to start.Choke isn't working either.
Bike makes this sound;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7NDJ3VWfTA

Quote from: Petar on October 05, 2018, 01:05:16 PM


Thanks for info.
I wanted to take battery to testing to nearby car shop,but they told me they only work with cars.
I'll need to either wait for Tuesday (there is national holiday in Monday) for other shops to open,or try to find someone who works on Saturday.
I forgot to mention that I spoke with my friend today who told me that something is draining my battery.
Then I remembered that I have some sort of alarm that sometimes goes ON when I use right signal turning light.
I also have 12v outlet for charging cell phones,I think it's called cigarette holder,and I have gear indicator.
Is it possible that one or more of this things causing battery to drain?

I would like to unplug it all (maybe no gear indicator)but I don't know where is cigarette holder's connected to bike (it goes beneath tank),and same goes for alarm.
Do you perhaps know where are they supposed to be located?

PS

I put battery in bike today (fully charged)and it needed cca. 40 seconds of holding clutch and start button before bike started.Lights worked when I turned key tho.
Then I tried to pull choke off,but it's seems that choke isn't working.
I pull it back and forward,but bike's revs weren't changing.
Bike was barley 1k at idle.

Do you perhaps know cause of these problems?


EDIT/UPDATE:I went to turn On bike today,and it didin't want to start.Choke isn't working either.
Bike makes this sound;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7NDJ3VWfTA

It's absolutely possible that the added accessories are causing the battery drain.  The alarm is particularly likely.  How it's wired is anyone's guess.  Just depends on who wired it.

At least you got it to sputter!  That's progress, right?  How long did you let it run for?  I can't watch your vid right now, or I could watch, I just did watch it, but can't hear it on this PC.  I'm thinking it may be time for a carb service though.  Hopefully someone else will be able to give you a better analysis.

One other thing to note.  The choke pretty much only works at idle.  When you open the throttle, it bypasses the choke system.

Once I made it work (only once) I let it run for 3-5 minutes.
I was afraid that carbs need service,since I don't have mechanical knowledge,I'll ask someone to do it for me.
It's not a rocket science,but safe is safe.
As for choke,I haven't add throttle,once I made it run,I tried to pull choke when bike was idling,but it didn't work.
EDIT:Is it possible that bike won't start because I cleaned plugs?
Will it help if I buy new ones?

Quote from: Petar on October 07, 2018, 08:14:47 AM

EDIT:Is it possible that bike won't start because I cleaned plugs?
Will it help if I buy new ones?

It's possible, but it seems unlikely.  I guess anything's worth a try at this point.  Be sure to check the gap before you put them in. 

To Start you need air, spark and gas.

What is the air temperature where you are? cold?

If you remove the spark plugs and lay them on the head (to ground them) - how does the spark look when you crank the motor?

When activating the choke lever on the handlebar, can you see the corresponding lever on the choke move?

Try to start the bike with petcock on prime (might be a problem with vacuum signal to petcock)

Try to spray some starter fluid in the air box, does the bike start then?

QuoteI tried to pull choke when bike was idling,but it didn't work.

What do you mean "does not work". The choke had no effect?

Kilted1 OK,gap should be between 0.8-0.9mm,right?

herennow,temperature in my city is 66 degrees.
I haven't done that,but I'll try.
Where exactly is corresponding lever?Sorry this is first time I do this.
I will try,if it won't start with ''prime'' position,that means vacuum is OK,right?
I'll need  to buy starter fluid.

Yes,the choke had no effect.

UPDATE:I went to my bike and it worked for few seconds and then it died.I manage to make it work for few seconds few more times,but it shuts off.
I tried to check spark plugs and they produce spark,it looks like normal spark,and the color is yellow/blue.
I also tried to move choke lever back and forward,and look at engine-I found small metal part that goes left-right when I move choke lever.I hope that's what you asked me to check.
I putted petcock on prime and try to start engine and nothing,it worked for few seconds and then died.

Have you tried to start it with the throttle 1/2 or wide open to see what happens?

After that I would check float level. using the clear tube method.