Hi all,

I have hit a bit of a wall on my GS project bike...

I bought two, one with poor compression and one with a damaged crank... The first had a bent valve which I have now resolved but as its on 60k miles id like to do the rings. The second was in an accident and the pulse generation bolt snapped off inside the crankshaft.

Now I cannot seem to get the cylinder block off either of them! I have follow the haynes manual (GS500 twin '89 to'08) and watched multiple videos where the block is tapped with a rubber mallet a few time and just pulled off. Now these videos infuriate me given the hours I've spent hitting and winching the thing to get it off I have even removed the engine studs on one with no prevail.

I have been given two tips... One, heat the mating surface of the block - been dubious about doing this in case it ends up warped. The other said I need to remove the piston connecting rods from the bottom to get it off. Pretty sure this isn't the case but may make block removal easier... Although manual says block needs to be removed before you split the crankcase - is this accurate?

To summarise I guess I am asking the following...

Is is okay to heat the mating surface with a propane torch?

Will (if possible) splitting the crankcase and going at this from the bottom make my life easier?

Is the any other tips to getting the block off? I have followed the manual to the word.

Just for clarification, the rear cam chain guide doesn't need to be removed correct?

Many thanks in advance
Harvey

I wouldn't heat anything in this situation.
But the bolt between the exhaust ports - you removed that ? and if there is any other bolts - I done remember in this case, make sure you remove that too.
Cool.
Srinath.

YT videos are great for 'how to' but I think they're misleading.

I did my Jeep ball joints over the weekend and in the video the guy hits the tie rod end, once(!) and it falls off.  I beat the h out of that thing and nothing.  Used a puller to get it off. 

He uses a little impact on his C frame ball joint press and it basically falls out.  I used a three foot cheater pipe on a 24" ratchet and felt like I was dead lifting 315# and it barely moved.

Finally got it out but some YT videos are staged.

Hi both, thanks for the replies..

When you say bolt between the exhaust port, do you mean no10 in the diagram from the below link? I've managed to get the head off no problem, it's the block I'm having problems with.

https://www.motorcyclespareparts.eu/en/suzuki-parts/2003-gs500-motorcycles/cylinder-head

Cheers

I had quite a bit of trouble with mine - actually snapped off one of the engine block pry pieces. At the front/back there are two spots where can wedge something in to pry on, two spanners in my case, have you tried that?

I resorted to just beating at it with a rubber mallet, hitting upwards on the sides (careful to not bend it!) and it even wiggled about enough for me to fit a screwdriver in-between the blocks and wedge them that way.

Probably best to not heat them, don't think it'd help much, really.

Cheers Kylll,

Where are these pry points? Are they under the part of the fins that run vertical? Sorry not being very descriptive... On the far left and far right of the pic linked below
https://gs500resurrection.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/dsc00807.jpg

Its fine to heat up with a heat gun or torch up to about 150 degrees C.

I'd use heat with gentle persuasion.

Quote from: 09dudharb on November 13, 2019, 05:20:58 AM
Cheers Kylll,

Where are these pry points? Are they under the part of the fins that run vertical? Sorry not being very descriptive... On the far left and far right of the pic linked below
https://gs500resurrection.files.wordpress.com/2010/05/dsc00807.jpg

My bad. thought you meant the actual bottom and top half of crankcase.
I have attached pictures anyway. Probably don't need to take cylinder sleeves off to split the crankcase.
Heating the cylinder sleeves are probably fine, as recommended above use a heat gun and slowly, evenly heat them and use a bit of light tapping.

Good luck