Once the front turn signals were made dual brightness (running and turn)  it's easy to see why they are considered unattractive to GS owners.  Add that these need to be tweaked (mounting ears) so they are more level and yeah, only a mother could love 'em.

They are staying for now because it's more visibility and (esp. new) riders, need all they can get.

I have a real busy weekend of repairing other things, but still trying to keep this project moving.

Sprocket cover back off to lube the cable and adjust it.  The cable does not swivel in the cover, the entire housing has to spin to adjust the cable at the cover   

I hope to get the other two cables lubed this weekend.







This can of black synthetic enamel is the oldest, longest open can of paint I've ever used. This can was first opened about 35 years ago. It was stored upside down and amazingly it's still perfectly good.






The tank had a LOT of dings, chips,  scratches , and a few dents. I think it can be saved, dents pulled and filled, but it's not happening now. I just want the bare metal spots covered so the tank can be used for a bit. It can always be refinished later.

For now, it's rust converter as the primer and then touched up with straight enamel.




No illusions of this looking great, just covered up and stable... not rusting

Met the very modest goal for today of lubing all the cables, adjusting the clutch, securing the wires to the handle bars.


That clutch cable adjuster is a long way out!  IDK if that is typical, or a sign that the cable is stretched. The clutch lever feel is good.








Some protective loom over the coil primary wire and secured.



The K&N Lunchbox was filthy. After cleaning, I noticed that the wire mesh was worn in several places.  Inspection with light showed the filter media was still intact.  A little oil resistant black cement was  applied to stabilize the filter. Maybe tomorrow the the filter will get oiled and reinstalled.









It's time to make a "punch list" of items left to finish!

Taillight / Brake light problem

When the brake light is turned on, one bulb goes off completely, the other lights up the bright filament only.  When one bulb that does show brake light is removed, the other tail goes off.  The schematic shows wires in parallel. Suspicion of a ground problem.






First thing was to swap bulbs side to side, push the bulb against the socket shell, etc...  no change.



Removed the taillight assembly and started testing with the meter.
There is NO continuity between the two socket shells (ground). There is continuity between both tail light contacts and the two brake light contacts.  Also check from the plug to the sockets.


Bad


Good


Good


Good


Bad



The socket removes from the taillight housing with a twist.  You can see the copper wire at the top of the socket. Probing the wire, the meter showed continuity to the plug.





The metal socket shell pushes out with a little force. The  wire and shell are corroded., you can see the rust spot. All that makes contact is the press fit against the wire.






Options were to:
1) Just clean and re-assemble
2) See if the shell would take solder.   
Cleaned the shell and the wire with scotchbrite. Tried tinning the shell and it took.
Soldered the wire onto the shell.




Pressed it back together and tested.

Good on the bench




Good on the bike.
(The bulb was a bit loose in the socket shell after messing with it. It had to be tightened (squeeze with needle nose pliers) to be perfect.) 







Those little foam blocks that Suzuki wants $5 each for the fuel tank,  exist on the taillight too. I had to re-glue them with contact cement.  The don't actually touch until the light moves a fair bit... I think they're just to limit motion.

Found a complete tool bag on eBay for $10. and stowed it in the spot by the taillight.

I always like to have a factory tool kit.
They are nothing great, but do have the basic tools for adjustments, emergency repairs and  wheel  removal.

man look at all these pics,... good stuff on a sleepy monday morning at work!

Quote from: cbrfxr67 on September 21, 2020, 06:54:59 AM
man look at all these pics,... good stuff on a sleepy monday morning at work!

I prob spent more time on photos than working on it this past weekend 

I had to take apart the engine in one of the family vehicles.  Timing cover, the timing chains, the cylinder head. It blew the timing chain and bent some valves. That's the major repair going on currently.
I squeezed in a little motorcycle work and wrote it up instead of watching TV or something...

It's down to this list. Even after all this time and effort, there is a number of items. I have just about everything except a couple bits... cotter pin and will need to have the key made.

I made the list and then completed just one item... the taillight...





This spring pin will be good for the rear. I have to find the correct size standard style cotter pin for the front. Its in between USA sizes and must be a metric size.




This stuff keeps showing up... and taking up my time.

Quote from: SK Racing on September 09, 2020, 02:20:42 PM
This is what the mounting rubbers look like for the rear of the tank.

The steel spacer is 18mm long, 6.5mm ID, 9mm OD. There is an H-shaped rubber ring, about 14mm ID, 25mm OD x 8mm high. The second rubber has a stepped shape, 9mm ID, 25mm OD and 8mm high with the stepped part raising up 10mm, 14mm OD.

Had a few minutes to spare... and made up the spacers.

Quote from: Sporty on September 22, 2020, 06:12:09 AM
Had a few minutes to spare... and made up the spacers.

Looking good. 

I allowed 30 minutes before supper to get something done from the list... that turned into 40 minutes.


Axles torqued and cotter pins in. A 5/32" is the best I'm going to find for the front.
The rear will keep the spring pin, at least until the chain and sprockets wear in and are re-adjusted









Lubed the seat lock cable.




Installed the repaired seat lock and the cable. The previous owner was tugging the cable housing to release the seat. The vinyl covering was wadded at the latch end because of that. This made it so the latch didn't have full travel. A little work with a knife, the cable fit into the end and it works nice and smoothly.









Funny, but this made me quite happy. Sometimes the little things are satisfying.

Knocking down the list another notch.

Bled the front and rear brakes.

Covered up the paint before starting the job... brake fluid sucks.

I used a vacuum pump for drawing fluid samples from compartments. It works better than the mighty vac for brakes.
Bled the front about 3X more than necessary and it still had a mediocre feel at best.
Let it be and bled the rear. When the front brake lever was squeezed a half hour later... it felt very good.

The brake lever also was squeaking and annoying. A few squirts of spray lube (cable lube) and it quieted down.





The rear brake had a good pedal after replacing pads, but the brake fluid was old.




First the reservoir was sucked almost dry by dipping the vacuum hose into it. (no photo of that)

Then four refills, vacuumed out the rear caliper bleeder and it was almost clear.






Nasty old fluid removed.



Just a small job but the bike had no front brake and a grinding, metal to metal rear brake when it came home. Finally having working brakes is kind of a big deal!

Thanks for the write-up on brake bleeding. It's something I've never done before, but will have to in the near future.

Quote from: SK Racing on September 23, 2020, 10:33:27 PM
Thanks for the write-up on brake bleeding. It's something I've never done before, but will have to in the near future.

My pleasure, but that's really just "show and tell". 

You don't need a vacuum pump, but it makes for an easy and clean one person job.
There's a few ways to bleed... pumping, drip, pressure, vacuum

The procedure used in the photos was vacuum.
1) fill the res.
2) make sure the bleeder can turn, crack it open, then lightly close it
3) attach the vacuum hose,
4) pull a vacuum
5) open the bleeder just enough for fluid to flow.
6) maintain vacuum, then close the bleeder before the res gets too low.

Operate the brake pedal/lever and bleed again. Repeat again if needed.

That's even better. Thanks!   

The bike was missing the ignition side cover. 
One was procured from eBay early in the project, but it was missing the emblem. It seems all the used ones are missing the emblem    Without the emblem, there is an open hole in the cover.

I bought a multi pack of this aluminum foil tape for a project. I had a lot left over it and it's handy for all kinds of things.





Four layers of tape, stuck/stacked, then cut into a circle and applied. One little circle on the inside.  Sprayed rattle can black. It looked good, but it's been beating around the shop for about six weeks now and it's scratched up, foil flexed and crinkled, etc... It will have to do for now.







More of a worry was that one of the threaded mounting bosses is broken. (Circle in red).  Used clutch covers are plentiful and inexpensive, but was wanting to get by with this one .  FYI Note: the green arrow is pointing at the infamous oil pressure switch/sensor.




I thought about various epoxy repair methods. It turned out that even with the broken casting, there was still enough thread to hold a screw. Some loctite was applied to that one screw and it was carefully tightened just finger tight with the Allen key.





Fitted the tank mount cushions







The "Cobra F1s" Muffler was poorly mounted and needed attention. There was no washer against the rubber mount. It was loose on the pipe. The exhaust clamps were positioned incorrectly and the larger clamp was hitting the swingarm.










Clamps, removed, turned, and retightened. Out of the way, plenty of clearance to the swingarm.





The adapter pipe is  rusty....maybe it gets removed and painted later in the off season.

Another awesome update imo! And I do love that aluminum tape... it's great. SUPER sticky too.

Another small job done, the speedo cable guide. The original was all rubber and broken. It was removed to repair and re paint the fender.  The plan was to cut it down and reuse the base as a grommet and standoff. It's been misplaced or tossed in the bin. That is starting to happen, the job has dragged on, small parts have been moved more than once and now can't be found.


A rubber grommet installed in the hole.


Then a plastic wire tie holder fastened with a screw through the grommet and secured with a self locking nut and a washer big enough so it can't pull through the grommet or fender.

A fat wire tie serves as the cable guide.




Not the fanciest, but it's done.

Next was having the spare key made. The local locksmith died this year (RIP)
I should have gone into the city, but ended up ordering key blanks from eBay and having the hardware store cut the blank.



Big difference in key lengths. The new key is the short style.

The "Punch list" became a little longer, but is getting done.