OK.

Feel like I am getting somewhere.

Can I get a corroborating 'amen' from anyone else that if the clearance is ~0.00mm that the valves are stuck open and the cylinder won't develop compression?

Any recommendations on those Suzuki Valve shim tools?

Best places to buy replacement shims? OEM seem to be about $14 where as aftermarket are like $4.

The next step that I would do, before anything else,  is to put compressed air into the cylinder and see if it's leaking out one of the valves or into the crankcase.

You can use your compression tester hose as an adapter.
Most people won't have the matching quick connect. You can hose clamp an air hose on, Or, use the one from the gauge.
Remove the gauge and install the air supply hose (at one of the joints in red circles)

Be sure to remove the Schrader valve (tire valve core) from the hose. (Blue circle) Turn and hold the engine so both valves are close. This would be the pointy ends of the cam lobe both pointing up.




Yes the valve clearance can be too tight, but it has to be so tight it's holding the valve open.
Can you spin the cam buckets (where the shims are) with the cam in the clearance checking position?

As far as buying shims, I bought them from Z1 enterprises.

The tool that I used was the Motion Pro (copy of Suzuki tool) It takes some getting used to.
I have read of makeshift tools, just the right size screwdriver, etc...   the nice thing about the motion pro is that it keeps the bucket down while you work changing the shim.

I didn't save/ publish a photo of the tool in place. The center of the tool is a ramp the sits on the edge of the valve bucket. As you work the tool into place, the ramp pushes the bucket down.  The ramp was kind of irregular and rounded. It kept slipping at first. I filed the ramp and got better at using it.

Here is a quote from my build thread.

Quote from: Sporty on September 08, 2020, 08:03:05 PM

I pulled the tappet shims to see the sizes. I had trouble with the motion pro tool slipping off the bucket edge.  It's hard to see, but the part of the tool the pushes the bucket had a casting or forging line and was rounded.  I filed it to be flatter and have a sharper , squared edge. It worked a bit better but still a PITA IMHO.

"Can you spin the cam buckets (where the shims are) with the cam in the clearance checking position"

I was able to do so on one, but the other two buckets were oriented in such a way that the recessed part you'd use for leverage wasn't really accessible. The one where it was approachable, I was able to rotate it using a flat head screwdriver. There was a little resistance. With the others, it's hard to say if the buckets would rotate or not since I couldn't really manipulate them. They certainly weren't free moving just by gently touching them with my finger or a screwdriver.

Quote from: struckjm on September 21, 2020, 06:23:00 PM
"Can you spin the cam buckets (where the shims are) with the cam in the clearance checking position"

I was able to do so on one, but the other two buckets were oriented in such a way that the recessed part you'd use for leverage wasn't really accessible. The one where it was approachable, I was able to rotate it using a flat head screwdriver. There was a little resistance. With the others, it's hard to say if the buckets would rotate or not since I couldn't really manipulate them. They certainly weren't free moving just by gently touching them with my finger or a screwdriver.

All four of mine rotated easily with a fingertip

Just did the 'oil in the spark plug hole' test and got an increase in compression.

Went from 0.0 up to a max of 11.4PSI with WOT and 10+ turns.

Quote from: Sporty on September 21, 2020, 08:06:59 PM

Quote from: struckjm on September 21, 2020, 06:23:00 PM
"Can you spin the cam buckets (where the shims are) with the cam in the clearance checking position"

I was able to do so on one, but the other two buckets were oriented in such a way that the recessed part you'd use for leverage wasn't really accessible. The one where it was approachable, I was able to rotate it using a flat head screwdriver. There was a little resistance. With the others, it's hard to say if the buckets would rotate or not since I couldn't really manipulate them. They certainly weren't free moving just by gently touching them with my finger or a screwdriver.

All four of mine rotated easily with a fingertip

The exhaust buckets almost seem frozen stuck. I can't get them to move to save my life, even if I rotate the cam lobe away.

Got all the shims fixed.
Both intakes are about .10mm clearance, so is one exhaust. Another exhaust is like .13mm.

Cold and head open, the left shows about 82 and the right about 99 psi.

Wouldn't start on first try, then did start with starter fluid.
Throttle response is sluggish, and after 5-10 starts it now revs suddenly to 4K, then drops off and dies.

Congratulations. It started at least! 

Quote from: struckjm on September 26, 2020, 09:55:51 AM
Got all the shims fixed.
Both intakes are about .10mm clearance, so is one exhaust. Another exhaust is like .13mm.

Cold and head open, the left shows about 82 and the right about 99 psi.

Wouldn't start on first try, then did start with starter fluid.
Throttle response is sluggish, and after 5-10 starts it now revs suddenly to 4K, then drops off and dies.

The good part is that you worked though a valve adjustment and made it run!

The bad news is that the engine has low compression, carb issues and maybe an intake leak.

Id sort out the low compression next... leaky valves and/or worn cylinders and rings.

Quote from: Sporty on September 21, 2020, 05:32:19 PM
The next step that I would do, before anything else,  is to put compressed air into the cylinder and see if it's leaking out one of the valves or into the crankcase.

You can use your compression tester hose as an adapter.
Most people won't have the matching quick connect. You can hose clamp an air hose on, Or, use the one from the gauge.
Remove the gauge and install the air supply hose (at one of the joints in red circles)

Be sure to remove the Schrader valve (tire valve core) from the hose. (Blue circle) Turn and hold the engine so both valves are close. This would be the pointy ends of the cam lobe both pointing up.




Yes the valve clearance can be too tight, but it has to be so tight it's holding the valve open.
Can you spin the cam buckets (where the shims are) with the cam in the clearance checking position?

As far as buying shims, I bought them from Z1 enterprises.

The tool that I used was the Motion Pro (copy of Suzuki tool) It takes some getting used to.
I have read of makeshift tools, just the right size screwdriver, etc...   the nice thing about the motion pro is that it keeps the bucket down while you work changing the shim.

I didn't save/ publish a photo of the tool in place. The center of the tool is a ramp the sits on the edge of the valve bucket. As you work the tool into place, the ramp pushes the bucket down.  The ramp was kind of irregular and rounded. It kept slipping at first. I filed the ramp and got better at using it.

Here is a quote from my build thread.

Quote from: Sporty on September 08, 2020, 08:03:05 PM

I pulled the tappet shims to see the sizes. I had trouble with the motion pro tool slipping off the bucket edge.  It's hard to see, but the part of the tool the pushes the bucket had a casting or forging line and was rounded.  I filed it to be flatter and have a sharper , squared edge. It worked a bit better but still a PITA IMHO.

Can you recommend a cheap compressed air that would work with the compression gauge? Like a picture or amazon link?

Quote from: struckjm on September 29, 2020, 02:01:22 PM

Can you recommend a cheap compressed air that would work with the compression gauge? Like a picture or amazon link?

Do you have an air compressor?

No.

So I am trying to figure out what to buy to do a leak down test like you described earlier.

Quote from: Sporty on September 29, 2020, 02:12:46 PM

Quote from: struckjm on September 29, 2020, 02:01:22 PM

Can you recommend a cheap compressed air that would work with the compression gauge? Like a picture or amazon link?

Do you have an air compressor?

Could this work?

or does it gotta be something like this:

Something with a tank like #2.

However, with the 25 PSI increase with oil, you have significant ring seal/ cylinder wear.

The threads are getting parallel now...i replied to both.

Quote from: Sporty on October 02, 2020, 07:53:44 PM
Something with a tank like #2.

However, with the 25 PSI increase with oil, you have significant ring seal/ cylinder wear.

The threads are getting parallel now...i replied to both.

I know! Sorry! I ordered a 3 gal compressor for $70. I'll find other uses for it later for sure.
Should help to clarify where the leak is, but I think we both think it's in the rings.

If I am reading correctly, piston ring seal failure would result in air coming out the dip stick or lower engine. Does that sound correct?

Quote from: struckjm on October 03, 2020, 06:49:20 AM

Quote from: Sporty on October 02, 2020, 07:53:44 PM
Something with a tank like #2.

However, with the 25 PSI increase with oil, you have significant ring seal/ cylinder wear.

The threads are getting parallel now...i replied to both.

I know! Sorry! I ordered a 3 gal compressor for $70. I'll find other uses for it later for sure.
Should help to clarify where the leak is, but I think we both think it's in the rings.

If I am reading correctly, piston ring seal failure would result in air coming out the dip stick or lower engine. Does that sound correct?

Yes

Welp. We'll find out soon.

compressor and leak down gauge arrive tomorrow.

thanks amazon.