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Clutch plate replacement process

Started by MattS22, April 16, 2021, 10:13:27 AM

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MattS22

Hi all,

I'm going to be replacing my friction plates on Monday after adjusting my clutch cable tension didn't solve my slipping issue. The kit I ordered has all the fiber and steel plates, springs and gasket.

I've heard from one of my mechanic friends that liquid gaskets hold up better over time compared to the rubber gasket so I was wondering if anyone had a similar experience.

Also, what should I know about the starter motor in regards to removing and reinstalling the right side cover? The one video I found wasn't too clear on which bolt needs to come out in order to get the cover off and the torque spec required when reinstalling it.

Thanks

MattS22

Another thing that occurred to me, do I have to disconnect the clutch cable on the opposite side before messing with the right side cover and the rest of the clutch?

Meukowi

idk what year gs u have, but mine on my 98 it was pretty easy, just remove bolts on side cover and there u got your clutch pack, unfasten the bolt with the spring, which can be tricky as you have to keep the pack locked, cant remember what kinda method i used.. the clutch rotates afterall, impact gun might do the work whilst in gear and maybe a few screw drivers to lock it in place.

btw theres a haynes manual digital copy in the forum somewhere which have the tutorial for it! GL

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The Buddha

Yea you need to take off the push rod, the cable itself can stay attached to the cover I suppose.
The clutch side gasket is paper and the liquid gasket is made by 3m or loctite etc and it is applied to one side to sort of glue that gasket in place. Rubber gaskets are only for valve covers usually.
Cool.
Buddha.
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MattS22

Well the clutch replacement itself went really smoothly. Then when I was putting everything back together I snapped the bolt that holds on the signal generator rotor  :hithead: Hopefully I didn't strip the threads in the crankshaft and I can get another 6x60 bolt after I extract this one.

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