I'm having an issue with the under seat diode connector for the neutral safety switch.  The blue and blue/black wires running into the connector are loose causing it not to function.  If I wiggle either the blue or blue/black wire just right the neutral light comes on and the starter relay clicks and it will crank(with the side stand down).

I've been googling trying to find a new 3 slot connector for the diode so I can snip off the bad one and wire up a replacement.  I am having no luck searching for a "3 wire diode connector".  Any idea what that connector is technically called?

Thanks!

What year is your bike?

If you're handy with a soldering iron, you could bypass the connector and solder the diode wires directly to the harness, using heatshrink tubing to insulate each wire. That will cure the problem forever.

Sorry, it's a 2000.

The bike came with LED turn signals and I soldered the diodes for that fix, but I did that off the bike.  I would need quite a bit more practice before I could solder that 3 prong diode to the harness.

Thanks.

I found mine but it was all taped up so I don't want to just take it apart. but here is what I understand and maybe this can help you.

here is a video of a guy taking a pin out of the connector, so you can get a better understanding of how it works. Some connectors have two clips holding it in the plastic housing, some have one.

So if I were you, I would take picture of the connector first, making sure I know how they go back. take the pin out by pressing down those clips on the side of the pin with a tweezer or bobby pin, something strong and thin would do, and then try to figure out what caused a bad connection. in your case it's could be a bad crimp where the pin is not holding onto the signal wire, you can re-crimp it with crimping tools or just pliers; it could also rust on the connectors causing bad contact between the pin and the diode; or sometimes just a bad pin, you can try to replace it or just try to bend the pin so it makes good contact with the diode.

Thanks for the video Mentalshark, that will definitely come in handy in the future!

I practiced more soldering first.  I found using flux was critical to get the enough solder to adhere to the diode prong to allow for copper wire connection.  To simplify things for myself I soldered the diode to 3 spare wires off the bike at the work bench, since that copper wire to diode solder is more difficult for me.  Once that was done I soldered the ends of those 3 wires to their corresponding wires in the harness.  I tested it and all was good.  I heat shrinked the joints and I am good to go.

Thanks all.

Nice!

I have hear that one of the reasons that crimping is better that soldering because the vibration and heat cause the connection to fail. But to be honest I haven't heard of anyone having a broken soldering issue, or maybe that's just a survival bias that people solder thing themselves can just fix it and no one talks about it online.

Now that I know what that diode is for, I have actually realized my kickstand sensor is not working when it's supposed to. Haha

Mentalshark,

How I determined the connector at the was diode bad.  With the ignition on, the bike in neutral and side stand down and seat off.  I wiggled the connector with the diode plugged in.  The neutral indicator light on the gauge would turn on and off and I could hear a click as the starter relay engages.  If I held it just right, the neutral indicator would light and the bike would crank. If I moved it more the the the light might go out but depending on if the relay clicked it may crank. Often neither. Depending on what is loose you may only have one of those two symptoms. In my case I believe the the blue/black wire and the blue wire were loose.

Thanks.