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Clutch actuator, the thingy that pushes the rod in the side cover

Started by Armandorf, March 21, 2023, 10:43:30 PM

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Armandorf

I have a very wonky clutch action.
I tried to do the 3 point adjustment.
While I was at it I inspected the side sprocket cover. In reality here is where the magic happens...
I plan to clean it thoroughly and grease it.
It is working but has way too side to side movement and the little hole where the rod sits it's almost conical and very worn.

I will attach a video.
I hope this part has some type of bearing and is somewhat serviceable.

At first I was thinking about asking if it was normal but now I'm inclined to ask,how bad is it?
As long it pushes it will work but
My clutch is stiff.

I have sv650 coils in the clutch basket. I know they are stiffer. My bad.
Also the cable was caught in a bad route and slightly bent.
It is good idea to lubricate it?
I straightened the outer wrap the best I could.
An then the actuator is wonky.

https://www.veed.io/view/0dc74d0b-ae70-4e68-9844-432e7ea7e7d7?sharingWidget=true&panel=share

https://filebin.net/r3i7fb2ettws2qem

herennow

looks pretty normal to me from what I remember.

Yes lubricate the cable, take a small bag and make a hole in the corner. Pull the cable through and wrap the end wit tape to make a funnel, let Some engine oil run down the cable overnight.

But with strong springs, action will be hard.

Armandorf

Didn't lube it yet but now although is very stiff is more precise, I will let you know how it goes with the oiling trick.
I thought about a funnel and electrical tape also.
Great tip

Armandorf


i have to open that thing, my clutch is a rock

in other video i found , the user said the balls are the same of a bicylcle crankset, not the sealed ones.
3.2mm balls  that he found in a bicylcle shop plus a 6mm that pushes the rod
2:50 to 3:10 caliper measuring the balls

Rallyfan

Did you just replace the clutch?

Did it EVER work since you replaced it? I mean did it disengage?

The video of the actuator looks to me like there are too many plates in the clutch basket. Did you count all the plates you removed?

Armandorf

i replaced the cltuch with EBC discs, it disengages and the basket didnt have visible grooves.
if after the cable and this maintenance it stills operates wonky i will open the sidecover again.
videos are not mine

Armandorf

Well, the clutch cable died after a long ride(60km), i was about to start it and it snapped on the lever side.
Clutch cable is stuck completely, i let it sit with oil, cramped vice grips on the cablle (lever side) and pullled the sheath and nothing.The cylindrical terminal that slots in the lever just broke in half.

New clutch cable.
Reassembled the clutch actuator, changed bearing balls and regreased, clutch is wayy softer and smoother.


The clutch actuator developed a problem where it has a lot of play to start pushing the rod.
I need to weld it or change it.

The good news is that now is waay softer.

Also changed the sprocket and put an oring chain, how is  the clearance with the oring chain and the sprocket side cover?

Armandorf

Well , i changed the actuator,old one had play everywhere (the lever is riveted to the worm gear) and i wanted to end the suffering. Low speed control was a nightmare with the slack when backing up clutch to gain rpm and let go again.

Works great in that regard, feels solid., but now i have all the engaging zone of the cluth as soon as i press the clutch perch. Very far out of reach. Much more control though. I think this is"normal" im just not used to it but I would like to bite it closer to the grips. less tension and i have no clutch action.

How can i adjust it better?   
i also have sv650 ebc clutch springs that i think make the clutch very stiff. i will try with the original ones.
i will post pictures later.

What i dont like:

The weird thing is that with both cable tensioners at minimum tension(perch and side cover), screwed al the way in, the clutch actuator is not in resting position(its like its pushing just a bit) so its working against the  the actuator lever return spring,.
As a consecuence the cable is under load, always tensed.
I will try without the adjuster nut on the motor side so it makes the cable"longer" to have more slack, then calibrate adjustment screw of the actuator.
That is my plan of action.
But i think something is not quite right here. Clutch cable is original. This "shouldnt" be so complicated.....As with most hing its easy to think that not so easy  to happen in reality....

Any tips?

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