Hello all. I just purchased a 2004 GS500F and have a few questions as both a new GS owner and a new bike rider.

First start on Saturday was tough. The bike wouldn't stay in idle at all... fired it up, it ran rough then died. Started it up again... repeat. I was able to finally get it to idle without dying. After that, it ran fine (as far as my novice ears can tell).

I just walked into the garage today to admire my new ride and I decided to start it just for kicks. I had almost the same problem as I did yesterday, except this time it didn't die while idling. But man, it seemed to be running rough.

So, I had thought that maybe the first start trouble I was having was due to no oil and no gas having ever been in the system until then. Does this sound right? If so, what are your thoughts on a rough idle from a cold start? Are there steps anyone can recommend for starting the bike from cold start, or should it just fire up without a problem?

I appreciate your input. This is all new for me.

Ian

Have you tried pulling the "choke" all the way open?

The choke is the lever on the left side of the handle bar, right beside you highbeam switch.

Refer to the owners manual for a detailed diagram of its location.

I had read somewhere on another site that it's not a bad idea to use the choke to start, and today when it was rough, I opened the choke a little to get the RPM up to about 1200-1500 when idling. Not ten seconds after I did that, the RPM's shot up to 2000 or so (I hadn't touched anything), and I backed off the choke and it was idling fine.

Strange to me, but like I said, I'm new at this. It may just be the way the bike works.  Maybe the idle is set too low?

Ian

The GS requires the use of the choke when starting almost all the time, even in hot weather.  You will have to play with it a bit to find the right amount depending on conditions, etc.  The idle won't really even out until the bike warms up, which could take 10 minutes, so don't assume that the idle is set low just because it seems low when it is still cold.  You will get the hang of it quickly enought, so ride safe and enjoy!

Wayne

Thats the way the bike is. They don't run well when cold, and for a internal combustion engine "cold" is less than several hundred degrees.

The choke lever allows extra gas to added to the mix, so that it will burn even in a cold engine.

GSs are notoriously cold blooded, they usually require the choke to start year round, not just in the winter like some other bikes.  Its a good habit to just put the choke full on in the morning when first trying to start the bike, crank it up and let it warm up while you put your gear on. Then when the RPMs go up to 2~3K back the choke down to half, then (in less than a minute), the revs should go up again, then back it all the way off, and you can drive off.

I would avoid riding with the choke on because it richens the mixture and can cause plug fouling and deposits, especally if you don't ride it far at one time.

Thanks for the help. I re-read the manual (although the first read was a skim because I was eager to fire it up), and I think I just misunderstood what a "cold" engine is. I had made the assumption that they were referring to an engine cold from winter-type weather, not an engine that was not hot from recent use.

Again, thanks for the help. It has been exciting to say the least over my first two days with the bike. I'll be safe, that's for sure. I've worked too many wrecks as a deputy and former traffic enforcement officer not to be.

And on that note... don't worry. I won't be hunting anyone who has admitted they lane-split!  

When you use the choke, full-choke will get you around 3500rpm, this is ok; you are warming up the engine. A little less than full-choke may get you 4000+rpm, again this is ok.

just to let you know i bought a new gs500f too. and it didnt run so hot for the first 600 or so.  It would die at stop lights, loss of power etc.  I have it at the bike shop right now for its first maintainance.  I'm getting it back tonight ill let you know if it is running any better.  Im sure it will be .

BTW i thing it wasnt running so smoothly cuz the valves had to be adjusted.  The dealers really stressed the first maintainance cuz of the valves when i first bought the bike.

All in all dont worry too much if it starts running like crap.  Just as long as you can put put your way through your first 600 miles.  Then get it serviced and tell the mechanic its been running goofy

bye, bye for now

One word of warning....don't leave the choke on and and walk away for an extended period of time or you will find your front fender will look like you put it in a pizza oven for awhile

Wayne

well got the bike back from maintainance and its running like a top   .

Edub: How much did it cost for your 600mi service and what did they do?

Well... Rode my bike to work today, and it was the first time for me on the open road. It's a ten mile (or so) run to work, and I usually take my patrol car, but I just couldn't resist taking the new bike. Man. Riding on the road is a little different than training in the MSF course in a parking lot, huh?

However, I now have a new question. Should I expect the clutch to be sensitive? What I mean is that from a stop, I can't seem to properly and consistantly time the engine speed with the clutch release. I'm not popping the clutch, of course, but I can't seem to get it right. Most of the time I pull away without stalling, but sometimes I can't seem to get it right and I kill the engine (twice while leaning into a starting turn... no fun! 400+ pounds is heavy, especially when you aren't expecting it).

It seems like the clutch friction zone is small, and doesn't cover the entire range of the clutch lever travel. It seems to be confined to the first half (if not less) of the lever travel from handgrip out. Is this correct? Is this a sport-bike trademark, a short-throw clutch? Is this something I need to practice with, or is it possible that the clutch lever isn't adjusted properly?

Once again, I appreciate the help for a stubborn but excited GS500F owner.

Ian

As measured out at the ball end of your clutch lever, you should have 10-15 mm of "freeplay".  In other words, the first 10-15 mm out there should have no effect one way or the other.  Once that freeplay is taken up, you should feel resistance through the cable, which is exerted by a spring on its lower end.  As you pull past this point you are "entering the friction zone".

To adjust the clutch, see the Adjusting the clutch cable mesage thread.

QuoteEdub: How much did it cost for your 600mi service and what did they do?

First mantainance for me cost under 100 dollars.  around 92 dollars i believe

Quote from: ifonlineIt seems like the clutch friction zone is small, and doesn't cover the entire range of the clutch lever travel. It seems to be confined to the first half (if not less) of the lever travel from handgrip out. Is this correct?

When I first got my 500F it was the same thing, but after my first service, they adjusted the clutch friction point on the lever to nearly all the way out.  I asked my brother (a mechanic) and he said they do that so the new clutch can wear in properly.  After the break-in, I guess they adjust the clutch so that when you pull it in all the way there's definantly no friction.

your rough starts are definatly the choke. i open the choke up all the way when i start the bike (in neutral, side stand down) then go back inside and get my gear on and brush my teeth (in the mornings before work).
then i ride the first mile or so (to the first stop light) with the choke keeping the engine around 2k. after that, i turn the choke totally off. at work, coming home, it gets a shorter fully open time, but a longer partially open time. if i turn the choke off early, i can tell usually, cause the engine drags a little. not as peppy as it should be.

Quote from: proudlomWhen I first got my 500F it was the same thing, but after my first service, they adjusted the clutch friction point on the lever to nearly all the way out.  I asked my brother (a mechanic) and he said they do that so the new clutch can wear in properly.  After the break-in, I guess they adjust the clutch so that when you pull it in all the way there's definantly no friction.

Interesting. I just got my bike back from its first service, and I noticed the exact same thing. Now, my friction zone is confined to the last inch or so of travel before the clutch level is fully open (away from the hand grip). Odd. I thought they made a mistake, but if you had the same experience, then maybe not?!

Quote from: perfdrugyour rough starts are definatly the choke. i open the choke up all the way when i start the bike (in neutral, side stand down) then go back inside and get my gear on and brush my teeth (in the mornings before work).
then i ride the first mile or so (to the first stop light) with the choke keeping the engine around 2k. after that, i turn the choke totally off. at work, coming home, it gets a shorter fully open time, but a longer partially open time. if i turn the choke off early, i can tell usually, cause the engine drags a little. not as peppy as it should be.

As far as the choke is concerned, I have been playing with it, trying to come up with my own routine when I ride. But you're right, it does take the choke to get the bike to start when I haven't been riding for a day.

Thanks for all the help.