I changed a tire, mostly using the instructions from http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.html .  That article recommends using an automotive wheel on your bench to hold the tire.  I don't have a bench right now, so just made a platform using some scrap plywood and lumber:

(click for bigger image)


I used it both to hold the tire while I broke the bead (shown in the picture), and also to hold the wheel while I levered the old one off and new one on.  The instructions on clarity.net/~adam suggest using a 6-foot lever; I used an 8-foot 2x4 with an extension of about 1.5 feet (!).  What was funny was that while I was positioning the bead-pusher board, I managed to push the bead right down and off with just one hand, placed about midway on the 8-foot lever.  So I think that a 4-foot lever would be long enough.

I used a "box" of 2x4s, about 11.5"x11.5" (inside dimensions) to sit the brake rotor down into, and rest the wheel on-top-of.  But the rotor doesn't go down very far; I should have used 2x2's or laid the 2x4s on their sides. The clarity.net/~adam page suggests using 5/8" threaded rod to hold the wheel in place, but that was too big to fit the GS front wheel.   1/2" threaded rod worked.  I wrapped it in duct tape to be on the safe side. On top of the threaded rod, I used a 1/2" washer, and then the biggest washer the neighborhood hardware store sold, and that was big enough to sit on the metal ring, out where the speedometer housing sits, and to keep the pressure off the bearings.

Also, I think that if you made a "box" using just a 3x3' piece of plywood and a box of 4 12" lengths of 2x2, then you may be able to use the regular axle to hold the wheel in place, and not need to get any threaded rod at all.  The width of the two fork tubes, plus the spacer, was just about how thick a 2x2 plus some plywood would be.

Underneath the plywood, the threaded rod stuck out, so I put a couple of skids on the bottom (2x2s).

Taking the tire off wasn't too hard.  It helped that I could stand/kneel on the plywood base, while I levered on the wheel.  If you make something like this, be sure the base is big enough for you to climb on while you work.  

I balanced the wheel, and marked the heavy point (about 1" from the stem).  Then I added the tire and took it to a gas station to inflate.  When I filled it with air, I heard one bead "pop" closed,, but the other side was clearly not seated.  I inflated to 50psi and bounced the tire, but the 2nd side still hadn't seated.  You could see the marked circle on the tire was unevenly distant from the wheel on that side.   Finally, I let the air out, and put a racheting tie-down strap around the rolling circumfirence of the tire, snugged it up, and then aired-up the tire again.  Since the strap was snug before I added the air, it got *very* tight.  Then I heard some creaking noises, and a much smaller "pop" sound than the first side made.  I inflated to 50psi, bounced the tire around a bit, then let the air out and removed the valve core again, and tried pushing on the tire to get it to separate from the wheel, but it seemed firmly seated.  The bead stripe around the wheel was uniformly near the wheel, so the bead appeared to have seated properly.

I aired it up and went home, and balanced it again.  It needed about 0.2 ounces, right opposite the tire's yellow dot..  I put it on the bike, and rode it around at 5mph for a few minutes, then around the block at 10mph, then rode to work at 20mph. Later, I rode at freeway speeds.  Then new tire has about 1000 miles on it now, and all is well.

It seemed that my large bead-breaking jig was overkill.  It's nice to have a platform when you're levering the tire off and on.  But if you have a workbench, you could just nail some 2x2s to it in a square, drill a hole for the axle, and you'd be done.

One thing I didn't like was airing it up.  It would have been nicer to have a faster rush of air, and a tank at only (say) 50psi (the gas station had 110psi!).  Also, if I use the tie-down strap again, I'll use a really sturdy one, and/or wear my full biking gear.  I don't think I've ever seen a strap that tight before.

when I changed my rear tire for my ccc trip last month, I just used 2 18 inch bar clamps to break the beads and then flipped one around to work the tire off the rim. at the gas station I used about 3 bucks to get it to seat ( i really needed a strap but didn't feel like buying one.  a few choice words later and alot of sweat later it was on there. i didn't bother to ballance it though, from what i was told and now from experience (8000 miles later) ballancing on a gs is a waste of money.

Wish you'd have been here!  I was mostly doing such overkill because I expected it to take a huge amount of force.  In fact, levering the tire off and on was easier than changing the tire on a 10-speed.  But having the tire bolted down did come in handy when levering the tire.   I think if I were trying to lever the tire onto a loose wheel, I might've nicked the brake rotor.

I tried the c-clamp method:  I tried using a big table vise and squeezed the tire.  But only one side came off the wheel.  I could squeeze the two sidewalls completely together, but the 2nd side wasn't coming off its bead.  Also, balancing the wheel with one hand was a bit precarious.  If you do this, it's better to leave the wheel on the bike until both sidewalls are free.  I think if I were wanting to do something simple as a bead breaker, I'd try this:


...still, it was satisfying in a "testosterone-soaked" fashion to make a 10-foot lever and use it

Although I noted how much weight I needed, and where, I didn't actually put any weights on mine either.  Ideally, I'd want two 0.1 ounce weights, one on each side.  The shops around here only sell weights down to 0.25 ounces, so I'd either have to cut a 0.25oz. weight in half, or make my own (a penny and a dab of rubber cement is about 0.1 oz.).  But I figured that if they don't sell weights that small, it must be for a reason .  I had the bike up to about 85mph today and didn't notice anything unusual.

This probably won't help much now that you're done, but I found that adhesive remover works really well on the rubber stuff that is left on the rim.  

to get the other side I put a piece of duct tape on the clamp contact area and used the wheel on the oppisite side to grip on.  and just pushed the bead off

About a month ago I ran over a nail.  My cousin pulled it out of my tire and it was about 2 inches long!  At first, we put some soapy water on the hole to see if it was leaking and it was a little.  So, I called my dealer (and every other dealer/bike shop in the city) and no one wanted to even look at the tire to see if it could be repaired (too much liability with a bike tire I guess).  I finally found one place that specializes in bike tires and they said they could patch and plug it.  Anyway, I've been checking constantly and my tire (the rear one btw) hasn't lost a single PSI in a couple weeks (since about 2 days after the nail was pulled out).

Am I being a retard for keeping my tire as is, or should I get it repaired/replaced?  Any suggestions....?

Quote from: daviputo get the other side I put a piece of duct tape on the clamp contact area and used the wheel on the oppisite side to grip on.  and just pushed the bead off

When you say "bar clamp", I assume you're talking about something like THIS or THESE?

yep like that,