Does anyone have any experience with this? Propaganda or realistic expectations from this part? Comments/suggestions?

Thanks!


SuperBrace Part#: 3329
Fits Model: Suzuki GS 500E
Years: (ALL)
Price: $129.95



SuperBrace is the leading motorcycle fork stabilizer. This patented brace provides better stability, superior aerodynamics and a more streamlined look than other multi-piece braces on the market.

Reduces low and high speed wobbles.
Improves stability in tight cornering.
Improves tire life and reduces cupping.
Decreases sensitivity to rough road surfaces and rain grooves.
Each SuperBrace is designed and manufactured for each specific motorcycle.
Every SuperBrace is made of 6061-T6 aircraft aluminum and machined to a tolerance of + or - .002 of an inch, with a polished finish.
Ten minute easy installation.
Competition proven by world class racers.
We stand behind our product with a 30 Day Money Back Guarantee. Shipping and Handling will be $10.00 USA via UPS. Call for international rates.

$130 is kinda pricy for a lump of aluminum. But the GS's forks ARE kinda flexy, which makes for interesting cornering.  If you like to push your bike hard, it might be worthwhile.

$130......OUCH! Not too difficult to make one.

mister manufacturer (Sirinath) made some a while back, I don't remember if he had any left though.

Spend $60 and get progressive fork springs , you'll get close to the  same result  stability - wise.  then you can spend $70 on something else like better handlebars or a real rear shock.

Stiffer springs will not help fork flex.

I think I have one left ... $40 + shipping. I have to tell you... the holes for the fork bolts have to be cardboard transfered for max effect... OK I can pre drill them a little big... but that in effect eats away at the effectiveness... and no doubt they have drilled it... but I thought I'll give you the option. So mine are drill and bolt... not ready to bolt.
Cool.
Srinath.

OK so then what moves when your forks flex? Is such movement independant of all suspension components sans the brace?

Stiffer springs give a psuedo effect of less flexing. The wheel will tend track in vertical motion better due to the heavier springs. There is less chance that the lower forks will try to move at different rates.

But the tubes themselves will flex. Remember that they are only 37mm in diameter. The other internal components of the forks have to have some clearance to move. So as they wear, the tolerances increase and more flex.

A stiffer brace will keep both the forks operating at the same time.

OK the brakes will push the right lower forward, and that makes the wheel go off a bit to the left. The fork brace will make the right one not go anywhere wihtout the left... and that extra width between the forks and the uppers etc will prevent it from moving much. If you want to know how much the handling is affected by the brace... take your brace and fender off and ride it.. Much worse than with... even that thin one.
Cool.
Srinath.

Ah yes now it makes sense.
Thanks both of you guys, i love this site.  Free worhtwhile info.  My tuition just went up 4.5% for fall term. Conversely, motorcycle college has cost me almost nothing.  

JamesG...  the bike in your avatar is actual size  :lol:  :lol:  :lol: ...
Cool.
Srinath.

hehe  caught me playing with the avatar eh?

Notice anything missing on that bike?

exhaust

no handrail, no mirrors, no rear fender

I have wondered if you couldn't get the same effect by measuring the distance between bolts front-left to front-right, and rear-left to rear-right; then cut and drill a piece of angle iron to go between the front holes, and another piece to go between the rear holes.  Once the two brackets are screwed onto the forks, you can drop-in a 3x5-inch plate of steel and spot weld to the two pieces of angle iron, to link them together.  

If you care how it looks, take it off, fill it with bondo and paint it black (leave holes in the bondo for the screws).

EDIT: you'd end-up with something shaped sorta like a soap dish

Alot of extra work, when all you have to do is nab a chunk of 1/4" 6061 plate off ebay and whittle it down to the right shape.

Avatar bike - Yeah I was playing around with the index page's photo in paintshop. Looking at what the bike would look like cleaned up and with a Buellish underbelly exhaust. Liked it so much I made an avatar out of it.
As I'm (re)building my race bike this winter, I may buy an "F" and make an uber-street GS out of it.  

an undertail exhaust is in the plans for my 94, have not worked out much of the details yet.

I used 1/2 inch thick 6061 T6... you can actually do it with a hole saw... or even a jig saw if you are careful. The sides can be a little jagged/crooked...
Cool.
Srinath.

Quotean undertail exhaust is in the plans for my 94, have not worked out much of the details yet

howabout flipping the head around, and making ram air, and pipes straight out the back.  figure the head dont care which direction the cams turn (tach drive aside) aslong as intake opens right after exhaust, might have to swap coil signal wires from left to right making #1 on the right instead