The throttle rev's up to high hell when I turn right.

Ruined a perfectly good night.  All I wanted to do is fix the damn thing, and ride it tonight since it's nice out.  :x


Sorry for the rant,  but if it's not one thing it's another.  


If someone knows a post, or how to fix this, please let me know, otherwise a perfectly good GS may end up in the bottom of a lake with Uncle Fredo.  


BTW, we need a big green angry emoticon, ala "The Hulk"

You throttle cable is kinked, or being pulled on. Solution?

1.) The easy way, adjust the cable until its fixed. It will have a little slack in it when the bars are strait.

2.) Pull the cable from your grip and reroute it.

ive got that problem and no matter how i run it i seem to get a little bit of that happening....i just ran it outside my trees so it sticks out by the signal.... oh well

wait...what took you 7 1/2 hours

hahahah I was waiting for someone to ask.


let's see here.


removing the tank, seat, fairings, battery, and disconnecting the carbs.

using my dremel tool to grind slots into the bown screws to make them flat head instead of phillips so I could remove the little bastiges.

removing my pilot and main jets, soaking them in carb cleaner.

wiring in a switch to bypass my ignition switch so I could make the thing run after re-assembling the carb.

re-aligning my handlebars, since the previous owner went down at ~25 MPH and then never touched the bike again. (handlerbars got shifted in the triple clamp about 3/8", a few cosmetic scratches, but other than that the shop I had look it over said it was flawless as far as the forks, frame, etc. )

spaying gumout carb cleaner (aresol) through the main and pilot jets to make sure they were clear.  sprayed compress air through them as well.

re-assembled the carb, and put it back on the bike.

Spent prolly a good 45 minutes trying to lube my replacement choke cable.

put away tools, clean up , etc.

killed close to half an hour trying to figure out why my seat wouldn't stay on right.

(turns out I had the rear tank mount backwards)

then after I had the bike running and way happy, I was about to take it for a terst ride, when I was moving it in my driveway and upon turning the bars to the right,  instead of icing on my cake I wound up with s--t frosting.

so basically where I am at now, is the bike is running quite well. sounds good, starts right up.  but when the bars get turned to the right, it revs to like 6 grand.  All beacause I shifted my handlebars 3/8"  over to line the three hash marks up with the triple clamp.

Even moving the bar back to where I originally had it doesn't make the problem go away.

And you'd think if I turned the bars left it would drop the throttle.  it doesn't.   for some reason I turn the bars right, and it's pegged at 6k RPM's.   no matter where I move the bars vertically or horizontally, the revs stay til I shut the bike off.

Ideas?

can you try disconnecting the cable at the carbs, and then seeing if the problem goes away? it sounds like a pretty serious kink in your cable, possibly a real bend that is holding the cable taut even after you correct the position. I'd suggest removing the cable check it for any "wrinkles" that would announce that the cable is junk, if you don't find any, you need to lube the heck out of it and re-install it, then see how it fares.

yeah, let out a little slack at the throttle body itself.  On the underiside of the throttle where the cable comes out should be a little with a nut on it.  Take an 8mm box end (i think) and loosed the nut and then turn the throttle cable in.  What I do with mine is actually start the bike, turn the bars to the right and then screw it in till the idle drops. then tighten the nut back up.

good luck

Jake

Well I'm not sure how I got a kink in it, unless I somehow turned it weird when I had the carbs off the cylinder head.  

I'm not looking forward to tearing everything on my bike apart  again, but it looks like I'll have to.  

I think what I'll do first is yank the tank off and move it away from where the throttle cable is so I can see if there is some interference.

I've never had this problem until today. ever.    

As I said, if it's not one thing it's another.   I fix my clogged carb jet, and now it revs like mad when I turn the bars to the right.

Thanks for the tips.  I'll try them tomorrow.

Jake,

I'm assuming I need to pull the side panels, tank, and airbox to get to that adjustment, or is it close to as easy to access as the idle screw?

I'll let Jake42 reply to that last query.  What I'm wondering about is the choke cable, especially since you lubed it today.

Let's say that you pull the choke lever to the full ON position.  Now turn the bars to the right.  Does the choke lever move forward "all by itself"?  If so, it's too tight.

Also, I'd like to know what the lower end of the cable looks like - to see if the spring was reinstalled correctly, etc.  For a few discussions of the choke cable, do a Search for the phrase choke cable end sheath (select "Search for all terms").  You should get 3 hits, all of which contain one or more of my choke cable pictures.

------------------------------------------------------------

EDIT: Oops - I guess you'll get 4 hits now.  

EDIT 2:  Maybe I got that backwards -- the "moving choke lever" should only happen if you turn the bars to the left...?  Anyway, I suspect that one cable or the other is being "pinched" under the tank or thereabouts.

ok if you look under the throttle where the cable comes out there should be a little  nut and if you loosen that you  then you can turn the adjuster on the outside of the throttle cable in a little bit.  This will give the cable a little more slack.

jake

Kerry, I disconnected my choke cable to see if that was it.

it's not. I have it removed from the handlebar end.  same thing happens when I turn the handle bar.  


as for the installation, the one you sent me is hooked to the carb end exactly like the old one was before it got trashed.  it's not as stuff as it was before, but it is still a bit tight.  any lube suggestions?  it's not hard to remove from the carb and re-install.


Jake,

my question was more to the point of, can I get at the carb end of the throttle cable w/o taking apart 3/4 of my bike? seeing as how you suggested I do it while th ebike it running it would seem I can, however it does not hurt to ask.

thanks again guys.  hopefully tomorrow my GS will live again.   it's bed time for me.  I *HATE* working Sundays.

(it was nice however, to hear my GS roar after a two month coma)

So, you couldn't be bothered to read through those 3 message thread hits, eh?   :guns:  (J/K)

Check out my second post in the stuck throttle cable??? thread.

jake42 is talking about the adjustment on the UPPER end of the throttle cable.  You can see the LOONG hex nut and the regular-looking lock nut along the cable (to the RIGHT of the screwdriver) in this picture from my "Throttle Retainer" page:



When I make adjustments at the LOWER end of the cable, I do indeed

* Remove the seat.
* Remove the side panel mounting screws (NOT the center panel in the back).
* Pop the side panels from their grommets.
* Pivot the side panels down in front, just enough to expose the tank mounting bolts.
* Unbolt the tank and either remove it or move it forward (and spin it clockwise a little).[/list:u]You've almost made it -- hang in there!

thanks kerry, I knew you'd come through with a picture for me.  It was late and I couldn't remember simple words like hex nut.  

jake

Okay, Kerry, Jake

NOW I know what you guys were saying,  I was really tired and worn out earlier.

The slack adjuster by the grip is just liek the choke adjuster.

There is no slack, if memory serves right ( not 100% sure it works), however I'll tell you how it is, and you tell me if I't s at max slack, or max tightness.


The nut is all the way up along the shaft, as close to the grip as it can, and the hex barrel is up against it.

I've done lots of work on cars before, but bikes are a new critter to me.

anyone?

Is my slack adjuster set to maximum slack, or minimum slack?


Thanks

spd,

sounds to me like its all the way in, which would mean its got as much slack as you can get.  sounds like you might have reroute the cable, which means taking off the tank again unless anybody's got any other ideas.

jake

I had a problem close to this try a zip tie and lock the cable to the frame so that it does not move when you turn the bars. There is a bar that runs through the frame on the top side of the bike just over the engine cam covers (makes a T between the head tube and outer frame rails) if you zip tie the cable to this it will not move. You are trying to limit the motion on the back side end toward the carbs.  This got rid of my problem hope it works. I had this problem when i changed my bars to clip ons

Quote from: spdracer75anyone?

Is my slack adjuster set to maximum slack, or minimum slack?

I would say you're at minimum slack.  But to find out for sure I would have to turn the adjuster and see what happened.

(Hint, hint.   )

The tip of using wire ties to secure it to the crossbar under the tank worked almost perfectly.

Now with the bars turned full right I *MIGHT* blip about 100 RPMS, and this is basically all the way against the stop.  I don't think I've ever in my riding turned the bar all the way to the stop either left or right.

Time to let this thread die now.   I've got a new one that needs more attention.