I've just noticed it becoming more frequent and lasting longer.  When I'm cruising and slow down and stop, the idle is so low that without goosing the throttle constantly it stalls.  It used to do it when cold and I had closed the choke earlier than perhaps I should and it would fix it'self after warming up.  Now, it seems that whenever I slow down, and stop, say for a stop sign/light, it stalls.  I mean the revs drop like a rock to nothing.  It's like I killed the gas completely or shut it off.  It's also hard to start it again.  But, if I goose it for a bit it will eventually "catch it'self" and idle normally forever if need be.  I tried increasing the idle but all that does is make it idle too fast when it warms up, it still stalls when coming to a stop.  It's "easier" to keep it running if I slow down like an old lady.  If I slow down fast it's stall city.

Ok, it happens in PRI, RES and ON.  I changed the spark plugs and the old ones looked good.  Haven't looked at the air filter yet but I ride on "regular" roads, no dust.  It seems to have good power and no other problems.  Gas is good.

have you checked your float height, and made sure that your mixture screws are set correctly?

I have a very similar problem (but a little worse) and its cause I'm running really rich at low rpms. Another way to make sure is to inspect your plugs. if they are black; then you're running rich

This will happen to me if I come to a stop after:

* I've ridden for a while
* The engine is completely warmed up, and
* I've left the choke on even a little bit.[/list:u]  Like

goat said, it sounds rich.

that sounds very similar to my problem...

how do you check mixture screws?...is it the same as idle screw?

and checking float height...i can do it the lazy way right?

Quote from: Frosthow do you check mixture screws?...is it the same as idle screw?

Nope.  See this picture.  If the brass plugs over the screws are not drilled out yet then I wouldn't worry about them - unless your carbs have been rejetted...  If they ARE drilled out, then I guess you could fiddle with the screws, but keep notes on any changes you make.

Quote from: Frostand checking float height...i can do it the lazy way right?

Yep, like on my Float Height Check page.

so if my carbs have never been rejetted and the screw have not been drilled out...then i don't have to check it?...

oh...and any idea what size tube i need?

Quote from: Frostso if my carbs have never been rejetted and the screw have not been drilled out...then i don't have to check it?...

Not for the suitability of the setting ... not until everything else checks out, anyway.  The bike USED to run well, yes?  Then something has changed, and it doesn't sound like it's the mixture screw setting.

Um, have the carbs ever been cleaned?  A good cleaning can resolve a multitude of ills.

Quote from: Frostoh...and any idea what size tube i need?

I just went to the shed and measured the hose that I used for the pictures on my How-To page.  The inner diameter looks like it's 3mm.  Fuel line with a 1/8" ID may work, but the 3mm stuff is already on the edge of being loose.  Unfortunately, the expensive 2mm ID line that I bought while trying to arrive at the right size would NO WAY fit over the float bowl drain spouts.

I have had a similar problem, most notieceable on emergency brakings (which we had to practice a lot in driving lessons.) Depending on (negative) acceleration, the Engine would just die on me. Immediately, just like shut off.  The engine was running very rich then. I suspected a dragging clutch, but that turned out not to be the cause. the phenomenon was clearly deceleration dependent (hard braking: engine kills, moderate braking, engine slows down, light braking, no effect.)

I later suspected that the fuel pool in the float chamber was swinging forward, letting the jet fall dry, only to find out that that was hardly possible at all.

So with all that "rich" talk here I am now suspecting the opposite: The swinging fuel surface in the float chamber causes overpressure (just head pressure, basically) on the jets and thus a splash of extra fuel in the carb when decelerating. That in turn kills the engine.

Just a thought. I havent noticed that anymore recently, and I'm running quite lean now. I'll have to do an emergency stop exercise one of these days. Will do that when the rear tire is really shot. I hate those flat spots. Driving school cost me about half of the life of my rear tire.

Interesting info and hypothesis, MarkusN....

Meanwhile, sidestepping the STOPPING part of the equation for a while...  I came across the following general guidelines in my Haynes manual.  Hopefully they will be useful to someone.

There is one thing that I'd like to do - check the fuel filter inside the tank...

Just how do I do that? Do I remove the tank petcock and the filter is there?

Edit: Looking at http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/PartsBandit/Assets/schematics/Suzuki/SU0084_037.gif I guess that's it...

D.

Quote from: danci1973There is one thing that I'd like to do - check the fuel filter inside the tank...

Just how do I do that? Do I remove the tank petcock and the filter is there?

That's right - it's all one piece.  See also the first picture (courtesy of GRU) on my Fuel Hose Routing page.

My would die whenever I pulled in the clutch when it was warmed up. It went away completely after I changed the oil. Weird....

But the problem me and others are having is the engine dying ONLY after stopping fast.  It seems that the act of deceleration is what is causing my problem.  Like I said earlier, if I stop like a granny (slow down VERY gradually) it's fine.  When I slow down regular to fast, it stalls.  When it's just sitting it idles fine AND when you rev it up (while sitting) it comes back to idle fine.  It's almost like the act of engine braking does something to it and makes it stall.

Today I'm going to use the clutch way before I decide to stop.  I'll pull it in at speed and keep it there through the entire stop and see what happens.

Quote from: joerockerBut the problem me and others are having is the engine dying ONLY after stopping fast.  It seems that the act of deceleration is what is causing my problem.  Like I said earlier, if I stop like a granny (slow down VERY gradually) it's fine.  When I slow down regular to fast, it stalls.  When it's just sitting it idles fine AND when you rev it up (while sitting) it comes back to idle fine.  It's almost like the act of engine braking does something to it and makes it stall.

Today I'm going to use the clutch way before I decide to stop.  I'll pull it in at speed and keep it there through the entire stop and see what happens.

This happens to me if I have even just a little choke - even if I pull the clutch and just use the brakes to stop fast.

Otherwise - no choke - the RPM drop a bit but it doesn't go out (yet).

  D.

Quote from: joerockerBut the problem me and others are having is the engine dying ONLY after stopping fast.

Gotcha.  It's actually good that you're chasing down a specific symptom instead of a general malaise.

Do you have a spark plug wrench (or standard 18mm wrench) handy?  It wouldn't take long to pull one or both plugs right after a controlled "panic" stop that kills the engine.  See what they look like, just for confirmation of the "rich hypothesis" we've all been spouting.

(Compare with the Spark Plug Chart from the Haynes manual, or just see if the plugs are wet with fuel.)

Kerry...  What would we do without you?  You're great man!

Anyway...  I played around taday and did some experimenting.  I noticed that even if I slow down slowly it seems to want to die when I stop.  Like I said earlier, it's like I hit the kill switch as soon as I let off the throttle and pull the clutch, 5,000 to 0 in a few seconds.  I had to give it a little choke to keep it idleing when I had to let go of the throttle to get something out of my pocket.  This was after about a 20 minute ride.  

I took the suggestion of maybe the carbs are dirty and bought a can of some carb cleaner.  When I got home I poured some in and took the wife riding.  It SEEMS to be better after about 30 miles.  I stopped a few times and while the idle slowed below 1000 initially, it didn't just die as it did before and went right back to 1200.  

So, This weekend I'll finish off that tank and let you know what happens.  I have put several tanks of "Bobs cheap gas" in it and it ran badly with it.  Hope this is all it is.  If this doesn't work I'll move on to checking float levels, etc.