Someone stuck a screw driver into my ignition switch and tried to steal my bike so now the ignition switch is useless.  I have rewired it to a hidden switch.  I need advice as to what the AMP and VOLT specifications I need for the ignition switch.  There is also two wires for the running lights.  Can I wire them all together on the same switch?  Thanks.

Lanner

You would need a 12 volt switch. I think the amp rating is 20...correct me if I am wrong Kerry. Ever notice how many wires the factory uses when wiring a bike (or a car/truck for that matter)? Every bike I have built has nowhere near the wiring that came factory on it. My old TR-6 probably didn't use maybe 10 feet of wire in the whole bike when finished. As far as my "running lights", if you mean the headlight and tail-lamp, I have always wired the hot from one switch for turning on the lights and then of course you need a dimmer for the headlight off of that. Bummer somebody had to do that...they will get theirs...sun don't shine on the same dog's ass twice. GS is a nice little machine, the forum can be a mine-field.

C.......

I appreciate the help.

I don't follow with the mine field connotation.  

 -Anti  

Hey Clark," don't concentrate on the finger or you will miss all that heavenly glory." Bruce Lee in Enter The Dragon. Ever see a fish go traipsing along and set off a bouncing betty? I love my GS500 and I love this forum too.

C.......

Quote from: cernunosI think the amp rating is 20...correct me if I am wrong Kerry.

Sounds good, since the one-and-only fuse is rated for 20 amps.  Then again the starter motor circuit is un-fused, so I wonder....

Quote from: cernunosI have always wired the hot from one switch for turning on the lights and then of course you need a dimmer for the headlight off of that.

ritninja, see the first half of my first post in the A few questions - Please help! thread.  It should help you decide about the lighting wires.

As far as dimming goes, there's already a switch on the handlebar for that.  Won't that still be functional?

Yeh, starter motor would need to be un-fused...when starter engages you tell the battery "pour it on, gimme all ya got Scotty". Just needs to be heavy gauge...on a Harley I think it's about 10, don't know with the baby G. Prob 12 or 14 even? Love the small verical twin GS, forum can be interesting when there is no in-fighting...ok, even then it's interesting, but not fun.

C.......

Quote from: ritninja......I need advice as to what the AMP and VOLT specifications I need for the ignition switch.  

Thanks.

Lanner

The amperage for the ignition switch is about 16.5 on my 92GS.  This number is a combination of measured plus calculated values.

The voltage can go as high as 15+.

so get a switch that will handle at least these numbers.

Quote from: ritninja......There is also two wires for the running lights.  Can I wire them all together on the same switch?

Yes you can.  In the run position the amps for the running lights are carried by the same ignition switch contact as everything else.



20 AMP FUSE
NORMAL CURRENT FLOW THROUGHT THE FUSE:
1. prior to engine start-up current flows from the battery through the  20 amp fuse to the ignition and lights.

2. After engine start-up, current reverses and flows from the generator/rectifier/regulator through the fuse to the battery. (charging current)

FAULT CURRENT FLOW THROUGH THE FUSE:
3. If, while the engine is running, the generator/rectifier/regulator quits then current flows from the battery through the fuse to the ignition and lights (same as 1.)

4. If a short to ground happens anywhere (except the starter circuit):

a. The battery will dump current through the fuse, blowing the  fuse.  
b. Current from the generator/rectifier/regulator will flow directly to the fault, not flow through the fuse. (self limiting)


EDIT:  "20 AMP FUSE " discussion revised to be more specific.

If you don't want to shell out for a genuine Suzuki ignition switch, any car ignition switch will be OK provided you can mount it somewhere it won't get splashed by water.  If you need to extend the existing wiring, use wire with the same number of cores (little fine copper wires twisted together that make up the flexible conductor inside the wire).