GS500E 1994 multiple problems

[3MSC]

Hey guys. Hoping someone still uses forums these days . Anyway i have multiple problems maybe they're connected im just pretty new to these things.

If i start my bike with full choke on it works fine for like 30 seconds then rpm's jumps to the moons until i turn choke fully down, but then my bike runs at either 300 rpms or ~1500 rpms (depending on the mood i guess ).

When bike is fully warm and im driving if i pull the clutch in rpms holds at ~3000 rpms and doesn't want to drop unless im in a gear and i let off my clutch until bike starts slowly ride by itself, but if i pull clutch in again it jumps back to 3000rpm. I tried changing idle screw i have made it so it wouldn't get stuck to 3000rpms, but then bike runs at like 300rpms constantly and keeps dying.

If i disconnect right spark plug on running bike it starts working on left cylinder only (not sure if its normal, but with gloves and insulated pliers im still getting shocked by unplugging it), but if i disconnect left spark plug bike dies so that means right cylinder is not working properly.

I haven't tried compression, checking for vacum leaks (a little only maybe).
I did tried cleaning carbs, checking for valve clearence (but im not experienced so i didn't knew how much deep feeler gauge has to go in. I tried smallest i had 0.04mm, but how many videos i watched i didn't went like that for me in all valves. I don't think that's possible ), i tried syncing carbs with homemade tool, playing with mixture screws a little.

Sorry for this essay just a new guy trying to fix his bike. Thanks. 

[herennow]

Check the manuals I posted on the other thread.

Carefull, you should never run an ignition system without plugs connected and grounded. If you disconnect the plug, all that voltage created in the ignition system needs to go somewhere and it can fry the system. The best thing to do is to remove the plugs keep the wires on them but lie them on the head so that they are grounded then use the starter and check that the plugs have spark.

If you are getting shocked, possibly the spark is jumping from a damaged cable to the bike frame?

When you check the valves, the feeler gauge has to go completely inside between the shim and the Cam. If you can not fit the filling gauge in between, that means that your valves are being held open and the chamber on that side can not fire, or runs very badly. Overtime valves recede into the seat and so clearance slowly disappears, it might well be that your valves have never been adjusted and you have no more clearance and valves are sticking open,  this will cause the exhaust valves to burn in short order.

For the RPM problems, once you have adjusted your valves, if the problem is still there, Josh wrote the book on getting carbs sorted.


https://joshkarnes.blogspot.com/2017/09/fixing-common-gs500-carburetor-issues.html?m=1

[3MSC]

I checked valve clearence few days ago and for intake valves clearences are within spec, but exhaust left side is way too tight and right has no clearence at all. I tried zip tie method, but it seeemed there were just not enough space to get shim out so im trying to find a tool to buy or borrow. I know i could take off camshaft to get it out, but with no experience every little mistake can lead to more expensive repairs  .

UPDATE: i ordered tool.

[herennow]

Yep, another of my tools I use every five years  , along with the clutch lockign tool that I use once a decade.....

[3MSC]

UPDATE:

Changed both shims and now bike runs WAY better. Idling very good, sounds way better and got some power aswell. However i was riding on petcock ON for like 30 minutes and bike stalled. Then i switched to PRI and i was riding for next few hours without any problems.

[herennow]

Prime is like reserve, except it does not need engine vacuum to work

[3MSC]

That was first thing to check fuel level, but i had plenty. Vacuum hose seems normal and fully connected it had happened to me before i changed shims so i tought it was because of that, but seems like not this time.