air corrector slide holes

[DrtRydr23]

On bike bandit a new slide is $37.32

http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view~schem_dept_id~725131~section_dept_id~1~section_dept_name~OEM+%28Stock+Parts%29~dept_type_id~2~model_dept_year~1996~model_dept_mfr~Suzuki~model_dept_id~703270~model_dept_name~GS500ET.asp

Ditto.  That's where I got mine.  I bought the diaphragms and little o-rings that go under the caps.  I had lost one o-ring, and one of my diaphragms wouldn't seat correctly.

John

[dgyver]

I have thought of this but never tried it, so do so at your peril.
You take a bolt, like a 1/4 inch bolt and slice off its head and drill in the center so it will sit on the needle.

Maybe that's what this fellow was trying to do....
http://vtxstar.com/sitebuilderImages/Carbs/mess_thb1.JPG

Sometimes you get real crap off ebay carb sales. At least I had some spare parts out of the deal.

S'up Srinath? How's your summer been?

A good reason to bid cheap or walk away. Sometimes you can get lucky though.
What the heck was he trying to do?

[Oklahoma_Mike]

Do larger holes in the bottom of the slides make the needle rise faster or slower?

[Gisser]

Do larger holes in the bottom of the slides make the needle rise faster or slower?

Faster.  We know that because DJ advises removing a corrector plug per slide for racing apps.  IIRC, you were considering going up to 140 MJ to solve the problem; that would probably be a mistake with DJ needles (which stop at 134 in the kit).  Also, from prior discussion, you may have the needle spacers out of order.  Goes:  SS washer / plastic donut /e-clip / plastic washer.     

[GeeP]

This thread prompted me to go out an work on my carbs this morning.  If I whacked the throttle open below 4,500 RPM the bike would fall flat on its face and sputter for close to half a second, then take off.  I figured it was the slides, but I've been riding too much to want to screw with it.  I knew the previous owner had blocked the slides and installed dynojet needles when he installed a lunchbox filter and V&H system.

When I bought it, it would not run at all.  I swapped out the dynojet needles for stock, but didn't unplug the slides figuring I would do one change at a time.  Today, partly because of this thread, I went out and worked on the slides.  The previous owner had drilled through the 2.5mm orifices to install #6 screws.  Rather than buy new slides, I drilled out one of the holes and screws to .125" to obtain a nearly equivalent orifice area.  (Orifice flow is proportional to area, not diameter)  The original area of the two orifices is .0152 square inches.  The area of the .125" hole is .0123 square inches.

What a difference!  I went for about a ten minute ride, testing out all areas of the powerband from idle to redline.  No more sputtering, no more hesitating, and an extra 10MPH on the top end.  Whacking the throttle open at 4,000 produces instant power.  Not only that, but the RPM rises much faster when blipping the throttle during downshifting.  Idle to 4,000 is much smoother as well, which makes parking lot manuvers even easier.  Overall, MUCH BETTER! 

Current specs for those interested:

K&N lunchbox
V&H full system
150 mains
40 pilots
Stock needles with two washers  (May change this if needed)
2.5 turns out on the idle
.125" slide equalization orifice
Previous gas mileage:  50MPG at 65-70 indicated in sixth for full tank
New gas mileage:  TBD

Lesson:  Don't plug the damned slide orifices. 

[Oklahoma_Mike]

Good deal!!

So to make sure I got this stright you have one .125 hole in each slide and the other hole per slide is blocked off with #6 steel screws. I am asking because if they are steel or such the weight would come into play with slide rise.

[GeeP]

Good deal!!

So to make sure I got this stright you have one .125 hole in each slide and the other hole per slide is blocked off with #6 steel screws. I am asking because if they are steel or such the weight would come into play with slide rise.

Yes, there is now a single .125 hole though the slide instead of two 2.5mm holes.  I drilled out one of the nylon screws the previous owner installed and left the other one intact.

No, the screw blocking off the other orifice is a #6 nylon screw.  Sorry, I forgot to mention that.

Oh, be sure to check the screws to see that they're tight.  I added a little bit of superglue to one because it was a tad loose.

Also, I find it helpful to spray the plastic slide with silicone lubricant before reinstalling.  This will help the slides move freely within their guides.  You can spray the guides too.

[Oklahoma_Mike]

Also, I find it helpful to spray the plastic slide with silicone lubricant before reinstalling.  This will help the slides move freely within their guides.  You can spray the guides too.

This along with getting stock needles I think will be the key. I have inconsistent throttle response that leads me to believe that my slides are sticking as well.

[Oklahoma_Mike]

GeeP,

You in quality/engineering?

[GeeP]

GeeP,

You in quality/engineering?

Quality control and engineering is part of my business, but not my field of work.  My work could best be described as "custom manufacturing".

In short, I'll build anybody anything they can imagine, as long as the checks keep cashing.