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New oil change tip

Started by Dan02GS, November 26, 2007, 09:48:04 AM

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Dan02GS

Tired of those routine oil changes and want to do something more for you beloved GS? Well here is a new tip, when you buy new oil include in your purchase some Marvel Mystery Oil. What it does is cleans out the built up gunk and vaneer your burning oil leaves in your engine.

Here is what I did, I loosened the the drain bolt and drained about a cup of old oil. Then I put about a cup of the mystery oil in to replace it, Mystery Oil does not lubricate so dont use too much, about  cup is just right.  Then proceede as you would by running the engine about 5 minutes to warm the oil, then drain. You should see that the oil is much darker than usual. Also you may get some water vapor from the exhaust weeping hole, that is normal water is a by product of combustion and it will go away quickly as the engine warms. I change mine every 3,000 miles using Motul 5100 10w/40.

If anyone else does this let me know, it is a cool little trick for the DIYer.  :thumb:

Move swiftly but safely

asobi

#1
Yeah, anyone else do this?

By the way: http://landing.turtlewax.com/sept2007/

you're welcome

edit:
I'm interested in anyone who can speak to the efficacy of this and other additives...

http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_additive.htm

El motociclista

Dan,
Thanks so much for the great tip. Before I read this I was actually considering flushing out the engine with additional oil (i.e. changing the oil twice back to back essentially) The Marvel Mystery Oil  sounds much smarter and more economical.    :cheers:
2001 mods: Racetech springs, Katana rear-shock, K and N drop-in air filter, superbike handlebars, MC Enterprises case guards, CBR900rr passenger pegs up front, uber-fenderectomy, mufflerectomy

GSRider

I work in the oil industry, and I would like to point out that if you use a quality motor oil (Notice I didn't say synthetic) and keep up on top of your oil changes, you won't need additives/flushing. In reality, additives are a multi-million dollar a year business that only gives you mental piece of mind - very rarely does it actually do anything for you that you can see/feel.

Sure, synthetics are the way to go, but the price isn't for everyone.

I remember doing an engine flush on my GS a few years back. At the next oil change, the oil was much cleaner than usual, but then the oil change after that, well, it was just as black as I am normally used to seeing.

Some points to remember if you plan on flushing your motor:

- Don't flush it if you burn oil.
- Don't flush it if you leak oil.
- Use only a flush chemical that is approved for bikes. Not all of them are.
- Don't flush the motor every oil change.

asobi, great reference at the GSResources :cheers:
www.esportbike.com

K&N lunchbox, Jardine ss full system, Factory Stage 3, Progressive springs, Tommaselli fully adjustable bars, Pro Grips, Bar end mirrors, LP signals, clear tail light, EBC front rotor, ss brake lines, Pirelli Sport Demons, Works rear shock

ATLRIDER

You might also look into Auto-rx as it's supposed to flush your engine, stop leaks, etc..

I'm using it on my Volvo 960 with 178k on the clock to stop a rear main seal leak.  Hopefully it'll work as it's pricey.  Some folks swear by it.  We'll see.

http://www.auto-rx.com/cycle-rx/index.html
K&N Lunchbox, K&N Engine Breather, Hella Angel Eyes, Buell Turn signals, Kat 750 Rear Shock, Progressive Springs, MC Case Guards, Aluminum Ignition Cover, V&H Full Exhaust, Ignition Advancer, 15T Sprocket, Srinath Bars, Gel Seat, Dual FIAMM Freeway Blaster horns

GeeP

Noooooooo!   A snake oil debate!

Pandy!  Save us, quickly!   :o
Every zero you add to the tolerance adds a zero to the price.

If the product "fails" will the product liability insurance pay for the "failure" until it turns 18?

Red '96
Black MK2 SV

GSRider

Quote from: ATLRIDER on March 16, 2008, 10:07:28 AM
You might also look into Auto-rx as it's supposed to flush your engine, stop leaks, etc..

I'm using it on my Volvo 960 with 178k on the clock to stop a rear main seal leak.  Hopefully it'll work as it's pricey.  Some folks swear by it.  We'll see.

http://www.auto-rx.com/cycle-rx/index.html

Mechanics in a bottle do not exist.
www.esportbike.com

K&N lunchbox, Jardine ss full system, Factory Stage 3, Progressive springs, Tommaselli fully adjustable bars, Pro Grips, Bar end mirrors, LP signals, clear tail light, EBC front rotor, ss brake lines, Pirelli Sport Demons, Works rear shock

Teek

My family was in the automotive business for 40 years, my hubby still is, there's a reason they call it snake oil.

BTW, the name comes from old patent medicines from 100- 150 years ago. They were mostly alcohol, but a lot had cocaine and many others had questionable ingredients. They were selling hope, and you hoped that what was in the bottle didn't make you sicker or kill you.   ;)
2001~ OEM Flyscreen & Chin spoiler, Fenderectomy, Sonic Springs, '05 Katana 600 Shock, Yoshimura RS-3 Carbon Fiber can, stainless midpipe, custom brake pedal, K&N Lunch box, Rejet, 14t sprocket, Diamond links, Iridium plugs, Metzeler Lasertecs, Hella horn, "CF" levers, Chuck's Fork brace. I'm broke!

p51mustang

 :laugh: :cry: :dunno_white: The more I read OIL & ++AAAOIL, or SYNxx. Super motorcycle Oil use only? & the new to me is to (PER);A Suzuki Dealer is to But two (Q) moble1-10-40 & in non synth, & buy 1 moble1 with the all new synth,  That just came out a few years back?? :laugh: :laugh:
It's now not funny for a first time Biker(newby) To Get screwed up :cookoo: It is a (Q) of They said he said is Better NOTE; From the 2002 Clymer manual $32.00 !. Chapter 3
page 67,(figure 21) Use only a high-Quality detergent motor oil with (API)rating of (SG) Now in (figuer21) says to use SAE 10-40 oil in all models & to use the same brand at
every oil change. :dunno_white: The #21 shows a Suzuki brand proformance motor oil 4 Cycle motor oil  10-40?? YOU must look for the SG on the can of oil, Now the Honda- yam-suz-shop Tech said use only what the
Manual calls for  :icon_confused: and on synth oil at all?? NOW back to th Clymer manual Chapter #1 page, the part on Engine oil. The grade of oil by the American Petroleum
Institute (API) Then you get into the Viscosity of oil on page #8 this can get DEEEP. can depend on were you live! winter&summer.. So hope the snake oil works for you.
The little Lucus oil thinge that is at the auto parts ! The one with the gears and a handle to turn and the syrup like oil? moves all over the gears? looks good to me :) :)
mustang.

s4gs

The only thing i add to my oil, is more oil.

Quote from: Dan02GS on November 26, 2007, 09:48:04 AM
Mystery Oil does not lubricate

There is no way i'm going to have a non lubricant go past my bearings.

Quote from: GSRider on March 16, 2008, 05:14:00 AM
if you use a quality motor oil (Notice I didn't say synthetic) and keep up on top of your oil changes, you won't need additives/flushing.


:bowdown:
04 GS500 Naked   SOLD.
07 SV1000S

ajaxgs

Quote from: p51mustang on March 18, 2008, 11:36:17 AM
The little Lucus oil thinge that is at the auto parts ! The one with the gears and a handle to turn and the syrup like oil? moves all over the gears?


dam i wish i had a quarter for every time some one touched that in our store !!! :thumb:
2k gs500 naked (sold)
07 sv650s

GSRider

Quote from: p51mustang on March 18, 2008, 11:36:17 AM
:laugh: :cry: :dunno_white: The more I read OIL & ++AAAOIL, or SYNxx. Super motorcycle Oil use only? & the new to me is to (PER);A Suzuki Dealer is to But two (Q) moble1-10-40 & in non synth, & buy 1 moble1 with the all new synth,  That just came out a few years back?? :laugh: :laugh:
It's now not funny for a first time Biker(newby) To Get screwed up :cookoo: It is a (Q) of They said he said is Better NOTE; From the 2002 Clymer manual $32.00 !. Chapter 3
page 67,(figure 21) Use only a high-Quality detergent motor oil with (API)rating of (SG) Now in (figuer21) says to use SAE 10-40 oil in all models & to use the same brand at
every oil change. :dunno_white: The #21 shows a Suzuki brand proformance motor oil 4 Cycle motor oil  10-40?? YOU must look for the SG on the can of oil, Now the Honda- yam-suz-shop Tech said use only what the
Manual calls for  :icon_confused: and on synth oil at all?? NOW back to th Clymer manual Chapter #1 page, the part on Engine oil. The grade of oil by the American Petroleum
Institute (API) Then you get into the Viscosity of oil on page #8 this can get DEEEP. can depend on were you live! winter&summer.. So hope the snake oil works for you.
The little Lucus oil thinge that is at the auto parts ! The one with the gears and a handle to turn and the syrup like oil? moves all over the gears? looks good to me :) :)
mustang.

SG certified oil is just the standard of oil, and not the specific grading. Use 10w40, with an SG rating or higher. All oils are now at a SM certification, if my memory serves me. That is a good thing, because the ratings are certifying that the oil is better than the previous rating of SL, SK, etc...and they are backwards compatible as well.

As far as different grades depending on where you live, always try to go with the lowest viscosity that the motor will allow so that the oil will get to the top end as quickly as possible.

For instance, in the auto world, the new Hybrid Camrys for example, are clear to use 5w20 OR 0w20. Both are approved, but if you have the money for the 0w20 oil change, (Which, my friends, IS NOT cheap!!) you are doing your top end a big favor.

And don't give me that "It's a lease, I don't care" crap. You should care, because it's YOU, right now, that is filling the tank.

...anyways...

There is more to oil than just the grade of oil, and whether or not it's synthetic. Luckily enough, there are a bunch of governing bodies that worry about it, so we can all have endless debates of the types of oil to use.


Oh yeah, one more thing, Lucas oil stabilizer is a fantastic stabilizer...it's essentially a straight 50w oil that is designed to coat your internals for a long periods of storage time. I have not heard of anyone using it in thier bike, and I would be VERY apprehensive in using any additives whatsoever in a bike with a wet clutch.
www.esportbike.com

K&N lunchbox, Jardine ss full system, Factory Stage 3, Progressive springs, Tommaselli fully adjustable bars, Pro Grips, Bar end mirrors, LP signals, clear tail light, EBC front rotor, ss brake lines, Pirelli Sport Demons, Works rear shock

GSRider

BTW - I know this one is a huge debate, but motorcycle specific oil is the best oil to put in your bike. It contains all the right additives for use with the application, including anti-shear properties, which are normally found in compression specific oils.
www.esportbike.com

K&N lunchbox, Jardine ss full system, Factory Stage 3, Progressive springs, Tommaselli fully adjustable bars, Pro Grips, Bar end mirrors, LP signals, clear tail light, EBC front rotor, ss brake lines, Pirelli Sport Demons, Works rear shock

The Antibody

Thank you GSRider. I enjoy all of this info. I will just keep using my Amsoil Synthetic 10w-40. It makes me sleep at night.

  -Anti  8)
Once the President of Coolness, always the President of Coolness.

"Just try not to screw it up!"

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If any one is interested, I've got a magic rock that keeps tigers away, for $50 you can have it.  8)
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