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Starter button does nothing! FIXED!

Started by quiktaco, April 08, 2008, 09:27:09 AM

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quiktaco

I just finished making a custom exhaust...

http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=40382.0

and had started her up and shut her down probably 15 times without riding her.  (That's not good for your girl either).  So I thought it was my battery, but trickle charged that and it was hardly low to begin with, but it didn't help at all once it was fully charged.  I've read all the threads about the starter problems, but most people were saying there was a clicking from the starter relay.  Mine doesn't click, which leads me to believe it's the kickstand switch/clutch switch/or the kill switch, or maybe even the starter button itself.  It's like there's no power even getting to the starter relay.

Another weird thing that might be related, is that when I click down from second, it doesn't want to go into first.  It'll stop at neutral, and I can't get it into first.

I was able to bump start it twice last night, but after I shut it down again, the starter button still would not work.  (and when it was on, I could shift into first).

Oh, also, I just put on new mirrors that required me to move the clutch and brake in about 1/2 inch, could I have done something when I did that?  I checked the clutch switch, but it's a covered wiring that goes into a small box and can't see it.  It doesn't look like what I thought others' looked like.

147.5 mains / 40 pilots / 2.5 turns / 3 #4 / 2x 3/32" holes in slides / lunchbox / 15 tooth / Chopped Exhaust . Seat . Subframe

beRto

How are your multimeter skills? :)

I think this type of problem may require a bit of your time tracing electrical wiring and connections/switches.

This thread might help:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=12788.0

WildBlue

You could start by spraying the safety switches with some WD40 and working them a little, just to make sure it's not dirt preventing them from closing.  Then if that doesn't fix it and you have a multimeter you could trace the ignition circuit for continuity and see where the break might be -- the Haynes and Clymer have the schematics. 

quiktaco

Reading through the thread that was posted by beRto.  Looks like it's the same problem, since it came on so suddenly.  Not really good with a multimeter.  I'd have to go get one, too.  I could try spraying wd40.  It gets very dusty where the bike sits, so maybe that has something to do with it.
147.5 mains / 40 pilots / 2.5 turns / 3 #4 / 2x 3/32" holes in slides / lunchbox / 15 tooth / Chopped Exhaust . Seat . Subframe

beRto

Quote from: quiktaco on April 08, 2008, 09:48:13 AM
Reading through the thread that was posted by beRto.  Looks like it's the same problem, since it came on so suddenly.  Not really good with a multimeter.  I'd have to go get one, too.  I could try spraying wd40.  It gets very dusty where the bike sits, so maybe that has something to do with it.

I didn't read all of the details in the thread I posted, but I think the problem there was a wire had come off the clutch switch. Simply replacing the wire fixed the problem immediately.

Looking at the switch wires is probably a good place for you to start (without the need for a multimeter). Check the wires around the clutch and sidestand switches to make sure everything looks OK.


quiktaco

I did check all those wires.  My clutch switch doesn't have connections like that either.  They go into a little housing, not connected on the outside.  Side stand looks good too.
147.5 mains / 40 pilots / 2.5 turns / 3 #4 / 2x 3/32" holes in slides / lunchbox / 15 tooth / Chopped Exhaust . Seat . Subframe

quiktaco

I'm thinking my clutch switch might be like 'dufoes' in that thread, how it's set up slightly differently.  Maybe I'll open up that housing (i think it was just closed with some screws) and check that when I get home.

Any other ideas to check?

I thought that if the kickstand is up, and the clutch could be out (if in neutral) to start.  And if the kickstand is down, then you must be in neutral to start.  And if you have the kickstand up and the clutch in, then it could be in any gear to start.  Am I wrong?  I tried all of these different situations which would bypass the kickstand on one, the clutch on one, and the neutral on one, and none worked.  If I'm way off, let me know.  I always start the bike with the clutch in, so I don't know for sure about those.

I'm thinking that it might be the neutral switch, since I'm having that other problem with getting stuck in neutral.  Maybe the bike's gearing isn't sitting properly and the neutral switch is stopping it all.  How would I go about checking that? The light comes on, so I assume it's working, but who knows.
147.5 mains / 40 pilots / 2.5 turns / 3 #4 / 2x 3/32" holes in slides / lunchbox / 15 tooth / Chopped Exhaust . Seat . Subframe

quiktaco

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/suzuki-motorcycle-gs500et-1996-handle-lever-model-l-m-n-p-r-s-t/o/m6056sch249077

This is the schematic of my clutch lever switch.  It's not two prongs on the outside.  The wires are the part that's right above part 21, and I guess part 20 is a contact for it.  I'll open it up and make sure it's working ok, but it doesn't seem that it would have had anything happen to it.
147.5 mains / 40 pilots / 2.5 turns / 3 #4 / 2x 3/32" holes in slides / lunchbox / 15 tooth / Chopped Exhaust . Seat . Subframe

sanjay

Did you try tightening the screws on the battery connection? 
'92 GS500.  Sold.
'01 GS500.  Sold.  SM2s.  Progressives (15W).  Woodcraft Rearsets.  K&N Lunchbox.  Yoshi TRS slip-on.  CRG bar-end mirrors.  Pirelli Sport Demons.  Billet Fork Brace.
'07 Monster 695.

GS500 Wiki:  http://wiki.gstwins.com

quiktaco

Just got back from lunch.  There's a little metal/plastic bit that slides back and forth over the two metal tabs inside the clutch switch housing.  I opened up the housing and that little bit was on it's side, so it was just sliding plastic back and forth over the metal contacts.  Easy fix for now, but the top looks worn, so it'll probably happen again.  I think it's only 5 bucks or so for that little piece.  Thanks for all your help narrowing it down.  It fired right up once I repositioned that little thing.
147.5 mains / 40 pilots / 2.5 turns / 3 #4 / 2x 3/32" holes in slides / lunchbox / 15 tooth / Chopped Exhaust . Seat . Subframe

ohgood

mine does that sometimes. it's infrequent enough that i tend to forget the side stand switch.

after checking the battery voltage and connections, it will dawn on me - sidestand switch !

couple of sprays with wd-40 and a few flicks with the thumb and it worked again. if it ever fails completely i'll just take it out of the circuit like the clutch relay. :)


tt_four: "and believe me, BMW motorcycles are 50% metal, rubber and plastic, and 50% useless

El motociclista

Just wanted to add that I recently discovered I had the same exact issue. After months of starting my bike by 'jumping' it at the starter relay (i used a thickish piece of wire to connect the positive and negative terminals of the relay, which then sent power to the starter motor to start the bike) I opened up the clutch switch housing to discover that the little plastic and metal piece (they are connected) that close the connection (which then allows power to get to the starter relay), were broken into several pieces. I will put up some pictures and a link to the exploded diagram of the clutch switch assembly tonight or tomorrow so this is more clear. Again, if anyone goes to hit their starter button and they do not get any type of response from the starter relay (no clicking sound) then the clutch switch is the FIRST thing they should check (granted the battery is charged). I have spent months trying to figure out what was wrong (I previoulsly had no experience with electrical systems). I now am that much more familiar the electrical aspects of the bike and am thankful for that.
Later
2001 mods: Racetech springs, Katana rear-shock, K and N drop-in air filter, superbike handlebars, MC Enterprises case guards, CBR900rr passenger pegs up front, uber-fenderectomy, mufflerectomy

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