Carbs rebuilt now wont start! could it be the weather??

[kylegod]

Got the idle pretty good. Sat at around 1200 but it randomly and more and more surges to about 5K and will generally sit there. I eyeballed the butterfly valves and they werent perfect but close. And I dont think they are so out of sync that it would surge this bad.

Vacuum problem I guess? I came back in for the night, but from quickly looking, the boots looked good. The vacuum hose to the left carb is good from what I saw. Any other places where a vacuum leak could happen?

[The Buddha]

Shoots to 5K on revving or all by itself ...

WD40 test for leaks.
Handlebar left and right check wiht revving for cable bind.

You cant be just lean ? plugs look white as a ghost now ?

Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

Goes by itself sitting still. Explain wd40 test?

[kylegod]

Im still only two turns out with DJ. Should I do another turn? I have a good feeling ill be buying your jet kit buddha.

[The Buddha]

@ idle spray wd40 by the manifolds. Revving up higher or smoking out the manifold = intake leak.

Does it move/change when you move the handlebar - that = cable is pulling .. .choke and throttle can both act up.

Else yea 3 is OK, so is 4-5-6 ... OK 6 is a bit extreme ... it may fall out ... but for an experiment 6 is OK.
More than the kit, you may need the 40 pilots ... tune it and atleast you can help people who are trying to get it right with DJ.
I think if you cant get the idle racing under control with 5 or so, do 40's ... but ride it first before deciding what you want to go to.

Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

Wow do I feel stupid. Checked this morning to see if I ever tightened the hose clamps on the boots to the engine. Nope. Gonna start it after work tonight and see if that was it, which I'm sure it was.

[The Buddha]

Ha ... been there done that, gone for a ride and had it die at the expressway off ramp to the local dealer.
Then I notice the bloody thing hanging off ... then I wait to get it cool and slip it back on and limp to the dealer 1/2 mile away, then tighten there and ride home.

BTW In my case it was the fact that the new boots dont perfectly click in to the old carbs. Not having an air box makes it slip out more easily. I strapped the carbs on the motor and it was fine. Yea it was 09 summer when it happened. Not ancient history. So not like I get any better with age.

Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

So ya think this is a good reason it was surging like that? Because boots look foe otherwise.

[The Buddha]

Yea air going in will cause idle ro race.
Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

Ok. Starts easily, and idles perfectly now with no fluctuation. Throttle and choke cables are fine. Just replaced the fuel lines and vacuum line for the heck of it.

BUT when I give it throttle input say above 3K it will stay there for a little then slowly come back down to 1200. This is after it is warmed and not choked. But it doesnt fluctuate by itself.

If I put it in gear and start to pull away the revs also go back down right away.

Talked to a buddy of mine who rides and works on an SV650. Says his did the same thing after he rejetted. He then had his carbs synched and the problem went away.

So im hoping that this a syncing problem?

[gregvhen]

if your carbs were synched to begin with than installing the dyno kit wouldnt mess em up. but go for that.  i wish i woul have read this a day ago. my bike was fluctuating idling high on choke (which i know it should idle high on choke) but just opening the choke a little bit would kill it so i started a tear down. gonna freshen everything up and make sure its right when i put it back together

[kylegod]

I dont know if they were synched. The original ones i took off had a seized air/fuel screw. Eventually tried to drill it and extract it and still wouldnt budge. The previous owner destroyed the threads when drilling out the cap. So I bought these off ebay. They were an older year and had been off the bike and sitting for some time, but were actually in much better condition than the ones I had. Just needed a good cleaning.

I dont think a vacuum leak would do what my bike is doing...would it?

[The Buddha]

WTF, dude synch or not will make it vibrate more ... not much else. If it vibrates more at idle and reduces as the rpm goes up that is a poor synch. Of course it can also be a slight cable hang ... if that is perfect, then open air screw, or open air screw, if it affects it then its a good cable. Easier to open the air screw than fiddle the throttle cable looking for a rough spot.

On an SV assuming first gen they run different jetting in the 2 cyls, and hence synching can affect mix and vice versa more than the GS. 2nd gen was FI.

You need to open the air screws 1/4 turn. DJ garbage does not address the lean down low problem. Pilots do, but you are almost there so just go open the air screws. Past 5.5-6 is danger zone. It will fall out after 8, so you get up there in the 5-6 range, put a cap on the outside of the fitting, so it it falls off atleast it doesn't get away from you.

Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

Thottle cable and choke are fine. Had my surgery today, so this weekend ill go out to the garage and turn out the screws.

How would turning the screws eliminate the rpms hanging?

[The Buddha]

The rpm climbs or hovers when there is a lean mix ... weird but it also can drop rpm's and cough etc when that is the case ... but only under load. At idle it always hovers. Hovering, hanging, at no load, surging under steady load, and misfiring and dropping rpm under hard load (acceleration and higher revs) are all signs of leannes.

Rich tends to drop rpm's below the idle rpm and slowly climb back to idle, it also has a loss of power and poor response when openign the throttle and definite loss of power up top ... like if you pull 10K with the right jets, put 1 size larger mains and you'd lose 2K rpm.

You're slow to return, that is 1/4 turn out or even less. 1/8th maybe. Do 14 and if it starts to drop under the set rpm and rev back up, then screw in 1/8th.

Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

gotcha. just out of curiousity, why does leanness make the rpms hang? mechanically why does this happen? just wandering. Thanks alot. Big help with getting my bike back to working order. i appreciate it.

[The Buddha]

Leaner mixtures run hotter. Hotter cyls seal better, that causes more vacuum and sucks in more air ...
Lean motors as a consequence make a wee bit more power. There has been cases of exhaust pipes turning red hot as well as other general overheating problems.

You need it to run just a shade rich, so it will get the full effect of quenching as well as not give you other symptoms of richness. Of course that is assuming you want to run the bike for many years and several 1000's of miles.

Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

I see. I'm still kinda bed ridden from surgery but will probably go out to the garage tomorrow. So get it warmed and at idle and do 1/8 turn on each side and see if it still hang after throttle input

[The Buddha]

Dude take your time. No one to please but yourself. I'll still remember the same as I always do about your carb ... yea ... next to 0 ... yup gotcha ... now what was your name again. Kyle ... sounds like pile.

Cool.
Buddha.

[kylegod]

Ah. All better. Idles perfect. RPMs dont hang. Seems like it starts easier too with less choke needed. And no hesitation and sputtering from 1-5K like before the jet kit. Im sure once I start riding more ill fine tune and fiddle with air/fuel screw.

Seems like all my problems were related to me being a dumbass and having a kaput battery. But it rides nice with the DJ kit. Maybe ill get that 40 pilot one day but i dont see the need for it so much. Perhaps I will once riding season comes and I feel its necessary. But down low it was strong and slight to full throttle inputs were smooth.

Thanks alot for the help though, especialy buddha.