Does this look to be rusting (or close to it?)

[Dache]

This is the only spot on my bike so I'm being really anal! I was going to buy a pen or small paint jar but it appears that it's too big of a scratch for either to fix "good" and they would cost around $100.

Should I not worry about it? How much would a bodyshop charge to fix something like this?

[adidasguy]

Pens are $15.95 each. I have the same blue tank. Just the blue and clear is fine. Primer if you feel like it. You could use just the blue and polish it. You'll be happier and she will look better. So 2 pens plus shipping?

I find it handy to have the blue and clear. There will be wear spots where the seat rubs the tank. I touch those up every 6 months with a little clear. Used blue at first when I first saw them. Staples - sometimes a bad one scrapes the tank a little.

[Dache]

Pens are $15.95 each. I have the same blue tank. Just the blue and clear is fine. Primer if you feel like it. You could use just the blue and polish it. You'll be happier and she will look better. So 2 pens plus shipping?

I find it handy to have the blue and clear. There will be wear spots where the seat rubs the tank. I touch those up every 6 months with a little clear. Used blue at first when I first saw them. Staples - sometimes a bad one scrapes the tank a little.

Thanks - it appears I need a "base" coat as well which is another $15.95. Primer/Base/Normal/Clear + tack + sandpaper or do I not need sandpaper for something like this?

[adidasguy]

What year? Mine is 2009. "Pear Vigor Blue" does not have a base coat. Primer I say is optional as long as it is clean and free of grease, if you want to save a few dollars.

I've touched up small dings with just the color.
You have a biggie out in the open so spend a little time. Use clear over the color. Don't do a lot of sanding. It takes a week or more for the paint to cure and flatten down as much as its going to. So you want to wait before sanding (if much at all) and applying clear. Then wait. Apply more clear if it sank down then wait and polish it up.

It all depends on how much time you want to put into it and if you want a good repair, a nice repair or a perfect repair.

Colorrite has instructions and I think Youtube videos.

[Dache]

What year? Mine is 2009. "Pear Vigor Blue" does not have a base coat. Primer I say is optional as long as it is clean and free of grease, if you want to save a few dollars.

I've touched up small dings with just the color.
You have a biggie out in the open so spend a little time. Use clear over the color. Don't do a lot of sanding. It takes a week or more for the paint to cure and flatten down as much as its going to. So you want to wait before sanding (if much at all) and applying clear. Then wait. Apply more clear if it sank down then wait and polish it up.

It all depends on how much time you want to put into it and if you want a good repair, a nice repair or a perfect repair.

Colorrite has instructions and I think Youtube videos.

Pulled the trigger and spent $60 on primer/base/normal/clear. Do I sand it at all before applying the primer to smooth it out? I know I clean it well/tack cloth but how do I get rid of the "rust" look? I have no issue waiting a few weeks for the whole process to be over!

[adidasguy]

I guess you did need a base for a 2005. 2009 blue doesn't.

I suggest going by directions from Colorrite. I am not a guru on painting. I can do it and I do OK, but I prefer not to give lots of instruction here because there are too many variables and too many ways to mess up.

Colorrite has instructions. Probably send them the photo and ask for advice or search their tutorials. I follow their instructions from their site. You get instructions with the pens.
http://www.colorrite.com/bulletins/Microsoft%20Word%20-%20Touch-Up%20Instructions.pdf