Carb Rebuild: Tips and Tricks?

[kigroy]

I'm about ready rebuild my carburetor, and I was wondering if anyone had any tips and tricks for me before I start.

For instance, what is a good cleaning solvent to clean the parts of the carb in? and are there any gaskets that break especially easy?

Also, I figure since I have it all apart I may as well rejet it.  I have an '89, so I'm going to buy 40 pilots, and 125 Mains (as recommended by JeffD in Rejetting the GS500).  I'll buy a #4 washer at a hardware store.  Will there be anything else I need for the rejetting?

Are there any other mods I could preform?

Thanks

[fsrdh]

1: Take the cabrs  out the bike if it is your first time. (grr i did it sooooo many times...)  drain the hoses to a bottle ( 2 from tank / 1 from carb / 2 float bowls  ( I use a plastic 0.5 liter coke bottle that I hang on the frame . )
2: disassemble only one carb at a time on a EMPTY BIG table so you know if you missed something .
3: if your bike works fine don't adjust the floats !!!!!
4: make sure you go Through the Clymer manual putting it back in
5: use compressed air to clean the tiny valves and all the rust inside
6: don't loose the small o'rings under the black cup's
7: after you put it back don't forget the vacuum hose ( smallest one connects to the back of petcock  on pre2001 models goes to the inside left crab )
8: set the petcock on prime and wait next to the bike for 5 min
if there is fuel going thought the Air-box drain hose tap your carbs with a hammer ( gently ) to  move the float valve / if it still leaks you left something on your table

[miket]

Check out my web page for detailed pictures

http://www.angelfire.com/mts/mikesgs500/rejetting

[Kerry]

I'm about ready rebuild my carburetor, and I was wondering if anyone had any tips and tricks for me before I start.

For instance, what is a good cleaning solvent to clean the parts of the carb in? and are there any gaskets that break especially easy?

I just use the carb cleaner that comes in a spray can for 3 dollars or so.  I attach the "straw" and (gently) spray just enough of the cleaner into a small plastic cup to cover the metal parts that I want to clean.  I let them soak for 20 or 30 minutes and then blow them out as well as I can.

I don't remember any of the gaskets or O-rings being especially tear-prone, but I have a '99 model.  With an '89 some of the rubber parts could be more brittle or more "stuck" to the various surfaces.

Are you planning to do an "official" rebuild?  Are you using something like the Rebuild Kit from PartsNMore.com?  If so, you shouldn't have to worry about the rubber parts; just replace 'em ALL.

[kigroy]

Okay, I off to start taking apart the carb.  And I decided against doing an offical rebuild, I'm going to clean it real well and see how it runs.  If runs well, I won't worry about it.  If it doesn't, I'll get the kit.  Thanks for the advice...

[Blueknyt]

REMOVE THE DIAPHRAM AND GASKETS BEFFORE SQUIRTING CARB CLEANER IN CARBS. soapy water is all you need to clean those up should they need it. Forsome reason, the rubber reacts (to agreater or lesser degree) to some cleaner additives, one being Alcohal. this will distort the rubber. its also a good idea for those of you who put fuel booster or cleaners in the tank, to be careful as well. one think i found believe it ornot that hasnt messed with the rubber parts is Brake Cleaner. but still, be safe, use dawn dish soap to clean the diaphrams, once they distort, you will NEVER get the carbs dialed in. trust me on this.