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Signal Rotor FIXED!. Starting the engine that was drained...another problem

Started by junk301, May 27, 2013, 04:26:43 PM

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junk301

Im making a new thread here cuz I dont know where to begin on this one. I was installing the flywheel on my gs500 motor and when i was torquing the flywheel whilst holding the manual crank bolt in place, the small signal rotor bolt/screw snapped. I have no idea how this could happen. It snapped where the screw started to thread. the rest of it is in the engine somewhere. Is this a really brutally big job, could I have damaged the main axle? MY LIFE SUCKS!

The Buddha

The ignition rotor bolt ? its threaded in the crank ? remove the rotor and see if there is enough to grip it and get it out.
Cool.
Buddha.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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junk301

yes that is what I'll do. I was seriously freaking out because I didn't know how it looked like inside. After seeing some photos I understand that it shouldnt be that difficult. My real concern is how in the hell did it snap. I never touched the screw.

adidasguy

Not to rub salt in the wound, you do not hold the timing rotor when installing the magnet rotor.
You use a 22mm thin wrench on the rotor or you lock the starter gears with a bolt stick in the teeth (not in the book but experience shows that works).

You're going to have to use a screw extractor to get that out. Otherwise, the crank is toast and you are best getting a new engine.



junk301

#4
Quote from: adidasguy on May 27, 2013, 07:24:17 PM
Not to rub salt in the wound, you do not hold the timing rotor when installing the magnet rotor.
You use a 22mm thin wrench on the rotor or you lock the starter gears with a bolt stick in the teeth (not in the book but experience shows that works).

You're going to have to use a screw extractor to get that out. Otherwise, the crank is toast and you are best getting a new engine.




I was figuring as much after it snapped. How easy is it to snap the crankshaft? how much torque is required.

Funderb

more foot pounds than you can put on it with a standard 2ft breaker bar.
Black '98 gs500 k&n Lbox, akrapovic slip-on, kat600 shock, progressive sproings, superbike handlebars, 40/147.5/3.5washers

"I'd rather ride then spend all my time fiddling trying to make it run perfectly." -Bombsquad

"Never let the destination cast a shadow over your journey towards it- live life"

adidasguy

#6
You can't break a crankshaft.
the timing rotor bolt on the right side is very small and delicate.
That's why you use a 22mm wrench on the magneto (which the book says to use) OR lock the right side starter gears with a bolt (my method) when you tighten the magneto. Tighten, then hit with an impact wrench for good measure.

Be sure the rotor shaft was spotless. Clean and dry with zero oil. It is a friction compression fit. I roughen up the shaft for better grip as if I was giving it a hand job with 1000 grit sand paper. The inner part of the rotor --- a finger job with 1000 grit. That little bit of roughness makes them lock together.

Any oil on the surface and it WILL come loose again (ask how I know)

I jam a bolt in the starter gear and the pinion (idle graer)  from the starter motor to lock it from turning clockwise. Then jam that sucker on and finalize it with the impact wrench.

junk301

Quote from: adidasguy on May 27, 2013, 08:35:39 PM
You can't break a crankshaft.
the timing rotor bolt on the right side is very small and delicate.
That's why you use a 22mm wrench on the magneto (which the book says to use) OR lock the right side starter gears with a bolt (my method) when you tighten the magneto. Tighten, then hit with an impact wrench for good measure.

Be sure the rotor shaft was spotless. Clean and dry with zero oil. It is a friction compression fit. I roughen up the shaft for better grip as if I was giving it a hand job with 1000 grit sand paper. The inner part of the rotor --- a finger job with 1000 grit. That little bit of roughness makes them lock together.

Any oil on the surface and it WILL come loose again (ask how I know)

I jam a bolt in the starter gear and the pinion (idle graer)  from the starter motor to lock it from turning clockwise. Then jam that sucker on and finalize it with the impact wrench.


Thank you for the in depth reply. I feel like I shouldn't have a problem removing the broken screw from the camshaft.  I have a spare engine that I can take the screw from when I take out the old one. I believe less than an inch is stuck in the camshaft. As  long as thats the worst damage im looking at I'm not worrying. This was a very rookie mistake due to my impatience and inexperience and the anger of not being able to ride during such nice weather. thank you

adidasguy

We all make mistakes - including me.
We work past them and learn from what we did.
You should be able to remove the bolt. It is MUCH softer than the super hard crank shaft.
Take care in removing the remaining part of the bolt. Watch out for the alignment pin for the timing rotor.
I'm out of town so I can't take pix of anything otherwise I would show how I do it.


jacob92icu

Quote from: Funderb on May 27, 2013, 07:50:24 PM
more foot pounds than you can put on it with a standard 2ft breaker bar.

Hahaha much more :)
I am into buying bikes that people have given up on and fixing them up!

RIP Patrick Lajko, I miss you man.

junk301

Quote from: adidasguy on May 27, 2013, 09:07:08 PM
We all make mistakes - including me.
We work past them and learn from what we did.
You should be able to remove the bolt. It is MUCH softer than the super hard crank shaft.
Take care in removing the remaining part of the bolt. Watch out for the alignment pin for the timing rotor.
I'm out of town so I can't take pix of anything otherwise I would show how I do it.



If the alignment pin were to fall into the engine do you think putting oil through the engine then draining it would take it out? I have a feeling it may of fallen in. I thought it was the broken piece but thats not possible.

Quote from: jacob92icu on May 27, 2013, 09:08:48 PM
Quote from: Funderb on May 27, 2013, 07:50:24 PM
more foot pounds than you can put on it with a standard 2ft breaker bar.

Hahaha much more :)

Yes id hope so...:)

adidasguy

#11
the rotor alignment pin is on the right outside here the timing rotor is. The small pin that aligns the timing rotor. It can't fall in unless you are in zero gravity.

My guess is he put a wrench on the timing rotor (right side) to keep the crank from turning while tightening the magneto/rotor (left side). The force on the magneto snapped the timing rotor bolt.

Correct?

Someone save me this week I am in Newark. Need bikers to talk to in person or SEE bikes (Who has the GS500F I saw tonight at 7:12pm on Market Street by Penn Station?)

Janx101

Quote from: adidasguy on May 27, 2013, 08:35:39 PM
I roughen up the shaft for better grip as I was giving a hand job with 1000 grit sand paper.  Then jam that sucker on and finalize it with the impact wrench.

ummmm ..  :icon_eek: ... no.. forget it.... i dont want to know...  :icon_rolleyes:  :flipoff:

junk301

Quote from: adidasguy on May 27, 2013, 09:23:23 PM
the rotor alignment pin is on the right outside here the timing rotor is. The small pin that aligns the timing rotor. It can't fall in unless you are in zero gravity.

My guess is he put a wrench on the timing rotor (right side) to keep the crank from turning while tightening the magneto/rotor (left side). The force on the magneto snapped the timing rotor bolt.

Correct?

Someone save me this week I am in Newark. Need bikers to talk to in person or SEE bikes (Who has the GS500F I saw tonight at 7:12pm on Market Street by Penn Station?)


close..I was holding on the 19mm bolt (right side) while tightening the magneto rotor bolt(left side), when the timing rotor (10mm) bolt snapped. Not sure how this happened.

adidasguy

That's what I was saying - just slightly different words.

So extract that bolt and do all the magneto tightening from LEFT side only. Electric impact wrench will do wonders AND do what I said to do to the shaft and inner mating part of the rotor. In and Out only - never round and round. Scoring must be in and out, not round and round.

I'll make a video as the magneto/rotor came loose on Suzi a few days ago.


junk301

Quote from: adidasguy on May 27, 2013, 10:26:22 PM
That's what I was saying - just slightly different words.

So extract that bolt and do all the magneto tightening from LEFT side only. Electric impact wrench will do wonders AND do what I said to do to the shaft and inner mating part of the rotor. In and Out only - never round and round. Scoring must be in and out, not round and round.

I'll make a video as the magneto/rotor came loose on Suzi a few days ago.



Thanks adidiasguy. Im punching myself because i actually used an impact wrench and it stayed on. But i was worried I over torqued it.

junk301

I'm unable to slide the signal rotor out despite the screw being snapped. is there a better way to go about removing the signal rotor?

junk301

I took of the rotor and I'm about to cry. there's a notch at the end if the camshaft that has been destroyed and is not embedded inside the end of the shaft. the screw is accessible and could be removed with a screw extractor. does anyone know what notch I'm talking about?

junk301

The notch has dug into the end if the camshaft. Can this piece be possibly replaced. maybe by machining it? I have an.old engine with the signal rotor intact with the screw not snapped
The crank is also intact and the notch is fine.

junk301


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