3D printed GS500 parts

[The Buddha]

Slide guides wear if you have run dirty filters for too long. On my 48k mile GS I ran K&N from 25k. It still was good. OK I am not sure how many carbs I swapped out in it ... may be a false assertion.
OK Anyway, wear of that part happens long after you have had other problems.
Cool.
Buddha.

[kapiteinkoek]

I doubt that. I bought mine when it had 9900 miles on it and I have swapped the air filter consequently every 6000 miles since then.

[ragecage23]

Wow, I had no idea what goes into 3-D printing. I don't think I can make those measurements.

[ndlsjk]

As a professional machinist, most people do not understand the intricacies of manufacturing truly high quality things 

[baronduff]

This is absolutely amazing, brilliant way of sharing a modified part and if you manage to help rage with his nipples (giggidy) that would be awesome, have been watching his thread and cringing at the idea of buying the whole assembly.

Will pick up one of those throttle clips!

[kapiteinkoek]

Wow, I had no idea what goes into 3-D printing. I don't think I can make those measurements.

Well then we have a challenge there 
It is really very simple to measure especially if you have a digital caliper. But if you dont have a caliper or fail to see how you should measure things then other options remain. Somebody else may take the measurements or send me the broken part.
Or maybe there is someone here with enough sketchupskills to do it himself 

[Bluesmudge]

I didn't realize sketchup was so feature packed. I haven't played around with it since it was first released.
Of course, I don't know the first thing about 3D modeling a product for manufacture. I imagine you need calipers more accurate than the harbor freight chinese crap I have for measuring valve shims.



I really like this thread.

[kapiteinkoek]

I imagine you need calipers more accurate than the harbor freight chinese crap I have for measuring valve shims.

I really like this thread.

Really you dont, if you can measure your valve shims you can measure accurate enough for the consumer 3D print services of today. The accuracy required for measuring your valve shims is 0,01mm. For measuring this object and getting it printed on shapeways 0,1mm accuracy is enough really.

I have a Mitutoyo caliper thats rated for 0,05mm accuracy thats good enough for shapeways stuff. For valveshims I have a cheap (probably chinese) digital caliper that is more accurate, 0,001 I believe. I also have this fancy micrometer I pretty much never use because the cheap digital caliper works perfectly fine.

Also Sketchup has a lot of features but its not as easy as building something there and presto you can print it. You have to check the model with other software and convert it to the proper format (.stl). By the way I'm no professional whatsoever. I'm still in college and I've been dicking around with 3D software for years (making maps and models for games and stuff  ). Sketchup is like the MSpaint for modeling. Being able to have sketchup models produced this easily is absolutely brilliant.

[ragecage23]

I don't have a caliper and I think using some alternative for measuring may not be accurate enough. Talking about my nipples (on the part of course) one prong is closed and the other is opened.

[kapiteinkoek]

Might as well leave the closed nipple out of the design. Saves a few cents on material costs and why keep nipples where nothing comes out of. _{wait what}


Something I just realised by the way is that sintered nylon may not be the best material for the nipple part. The plastic is resistant up to 80 degrees celcius and after that it will start to deform. Since the caps are close to the cilinder heads I figure those 80 degrees can be reached easily.
No worries though, there are other materials available such as ABS plastic on i.materialise. Another interesting option is to find a person close to your home with an ABS printer on 3Dhubs.com. If you are willing to spend a bit more (I estimate about $30 whereas an ABS plastic print would cost about $10) you can even have it printed in stainless steel.

[J_Walker]

Might as well leave the closed nipple out of the design. Saves a few cents on material costs and why keep nipples where nothing comes out of. _{wait what}


Something I just realised by the way is that sintered nylon may not be the best material for the nipple part. The plastic is resistant up to 80 degrees celcius and after that it will start to deform. Since the caps are close to the cilinder heads I figure those 80 degrees can be reached easily.
No worries though, there are other materials available such as ABS plastic on i.materialise. Another interesting option is to find a person close to your home with an ABS printer on 3Dhubs.com. If you are willing to spend a bit more (I estimate about $30 whereas an ABS plastic print would cost about $10) you can even have it printed in stainless steel.

I ride in Florida 90+ degrees F =/= 35+ C air temperature. My oil temperature gets to 185F =/= 85c so I presume you're right about the nylon.

but if someone needs a non critical part made from metal, aluminum mainly but I can do zinc and coppers and their alloys. [rarely used on bikes anyway] and can print 3d parts, I can do some lost form casting of those parts.

but I doubt it would be economical to ship from UK to florida, to where ever the part ends up at.. shipping alone would make it not worth it.

[akapellen17]

This is awesome! I am lucky that I was able to repair my part but i dont think the other guy has (sorry I forgot his name). Another thought is if the material can withstand the vacuum maybe? since vacuum tubes are connected to them? Just another thought.

[beRto]

cool! 

You have to check the model with other software and convert it to the proper format (.stl).

Can you describe these steps in a little more detail? What software do you use for the checking and for the conversion? By checking, I guess it looks for impossible geometries, orphaned points, etc?

[kapiteinkoek]

There is a sketchup tutorial on shapeways. I use meshlab and accutrans3D. Sketchup is not very good with rounded surfaces because it forms holes quickly. For the carb slide guides i had to intersect two curved surfaces and then even things like camera position and how much you are zoomed in on the intersection become a factor for its succes. There is better software available for modeling but none of them are as easy and fast as sketchup. Even with conversion and checking with other software Im faster than doing it in some autodesk package that I havent used in ages.

[ragecage23]

As long as it's cheaper than $70 I'm interested.

[kapiteinkoek]

We still need someone to provide the measurements! Once we have the model anything can be done.

but if someone needs a non critical part made from metal, aluminum mainly but I can do zinc and coppers and their alloys. [rarely used on bikes anyway] and can print 3d parts, I can do some lost form casting of those parts.

Lost form casting is also a nice idea. Shapeways even has a casting wax option. Ive seen people cast pretty cool things with nothing more than some common garden stuff and soda cans. But for someone who has not done that before its probably cheaper if he has it printed.

[Slack]

I need to pull my carbs soon. When I do I'll try to get those measurements for you, Rage, if no one else has by then.

[ragecage23]

I need to pull my carbs soon. When I do I'll try to get those measurements for you, Rage, if no one else has by then.

Thank you, I'd appreciate it.

[Slack]

OK, so you missed labeling one ridge. It lies within the area labeled T2. You also didn't ask for the height in the area T2. So, the Height in T2 is labeled T11, the height of the first missed raised ring is T12, the diameter of the first missed raised ring is D4'.
D1: 45.0
D2: 4.2
D3: 32.0
D4: 28.2
D4': 24.0
D5: 21.7
D6: 17.7
D7: 4.0 at tip, 4.3 at base
D8: 9.0
T1: D3-D4
T2: D4-D5 (but it's where the extra ring is, so it doesn't really exist)
T3: 22.0
T4: 46.0
T5: 5.5
T6: 7.8
T7: 9.5
T8: 14.3
T9: 15.2
T10: 6.0
T11: 2.0
T12: 4.0
H1: 35.5
Nipple hole: 1.9

We also need to do the inside, it's more important then most of the outside measurements.
There are 3 cylinder cutouts:
iD1: 20.7
iT1: 2.8
iD2: 18.1
iT2: 5.9
iD3: 13.5
iT3: 14.2

[kapiteinkoek]

Great, I'll get to it then 

By the way do you happen to have some close up pictures from different angles and the inside/underside?

I understand that this is a vacuum supporting thing but how is it sealed airtight? Is there an o-ring or something?