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Found my oil leak(s)

Started by Darkstar, April 28, 2017, 08:57:43 AM

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Darkstar

After my oil consumption rose I took the farings off and found these two leaks: http://imgur.com/a/olmmj.
First is coming from the valve head cover gasket, front on both sides. Second was found in the engine/sprocket cover, but I assume the oil in the sprocket area is coming from a leaking crankcase cover gasket. I figure new gaskets for both is the solution. Oh and apparently I'm using too much chain lube.. Im open to anny other glaring defects you guys might see here.
2007F with 22k NY/NJ miles. Stock exhaust/airbox. Rejet to 20/60/132/one o-ring/1.25 turns out, +2 mojo

dominickbuff

looks like the gaskets replace them anc c if you have any farther leaks

Darkstar

OK, i see that there's also a gasket to seal with clutch. Might be part of it
2007F with 22k NY/NJ miles. Stock exhaust/airbox. Rejet to 20/60/132/one o-ring/1.25 turns out, +2 mojo

The Buddha

That clutch push rod is a retarded a$$ design. They should have put it on the right side. Y'know like they did for all the other bikes that have it on the right. Not just Suzuki, kawi, Yamaha, Honda - all of the above.
Cool.
Buddha.
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J_Walker

the big rubber gasket, that's a common issue... if the gasket is still good and not all cracked an dry rotted. you can reuse it. you have to take it off, and where those little half moon shape boots are, add some RTV [black is fine] do what the tube reads, put it on there, hand tighten the bolts down, then after an hour torque the bolts down.

the push rod is suppose to have a metal plate that goes over it, behind the plate on the rod, should be a oring of sorts. I just used a random rubber o-ring and it has stopped leaking so badly.
-Walker

Darkstar

#5
OK, in this pic #22 is the plate, #21 oil seal, and pushrod #20, correct?
http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2007-suzuki-gs500f/o/m16095#sch649429
2007F with 22k NY/NJ miles. Stock exhaust/airbox. Rejet to 20/60/132/one o-ring/1.25 turns out, +2 mojo

Sandgroper57

The leak at the countershaft sprocket could just be the flung off chain lube oozing when the motor is hot. Maybe just needs all the crap cleaned away.

Also, you mentioned in an earlier thread your oil usage was something like 1.4 ml per mile.That would be about 700ml per 500 miles.  I think if that much oil leaked out of a hot motor, the mess would be a lot more than shown in your photos. There would be oil spots on the ground when you parked.

That just my 2c worth though, I hope the new gaskets do the job for you.
2008 VStrom 650

J_Walker

Quote from: Darkstar on April 29, 2017, 07:51:31 AM
OK, in this pic #22 is the plate, #21 oil seal, and pushrod #20, correct?
http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2007-suzuki-gs500f/o/m16095#sch649429

correct. but like I said, an o-ring does the job as well, no need to go OEM. its already a fail design.
-Walker

Darkstar

Quote from: J_Walker on April 28, 2017, 07:19:10 PM
the big rubber gasket, that's a common issue...

I'm seeing conflicting info on the head gasket, and mine is not stiff or cracking btw. One thread said keep the old one and just use RTV seal. Another said replace both the gasket and o-rings on the bolts that hold it down. A third said remove the actual head, retorque it down, then replace head gasket and torque that down. Option 2 sounds prudent, and option 3 confuses me
2007F with 22k NY/NJ miles. Stock exhaust/airbox. Rejet to 20/60/132/one o-ring/1.25 turns out, +2 mojo

J_Walker

#9
Quote from: Darkstar on May 01, 2017, 01:26:56 PM
Quote from: J_Walker on April 28, 2017, 07:19:10 PM
the big rubber gasket, that's a common issue...

I'm seeing conflicting info on the head gasket, and mine is not stiff or cracking btw. One thread said keep the old one and just use RTV seal. Another said replace both the gasket and o-rings on the bolts that hold it down. A third said remove the actual head, retorque it down, then replace head gasket and torque that down. Option 2 sounds prudent, and option 3 confuses me

if its not stiff/cracked/dry rotted.
Reuse it, just add RTV.
You can replace the orings if you want, as I've said before in another thread about o-rings, those can just be any generic o-ring of the same size no need to go OEM, you can if you want.

I've mentioned this before, but let me tell you. the replacement "big rubbery head gaskets" out there that you buy online, are all somewhat under sized compared to what was on there.. so a brand new one still is going to require you to put RTV in the half moon spots. to keep it from blowing oil.
-Walker

Darkstar

#10
Quote from: J_Walker on May 01, 2017, 05:08:11 PM
just add RTV

After reading your first post I ordered this Permatex RTV. Ad said it was good for valve covers, but packaging says it's not good with gas. Wouldn't all engine oil have traces of gas in it? I may have to return this and get another brand?
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002UEN1U&pd_rd_r=32ENDHS0GVVGA76PTDEK&pd_rd_w=u4Ok9&pd_rd_wg=Tjd3E&psc=1&refRID=32ENDHS0GVVGA76PTDEK



Quote from: J_Walker on May 01, 2017, 05:08:11 PM
replacement "big rubbery head gaskets"are all somewhat under sized

Even the OEM?
2007F with 22k NY/NJ miles. Stock exhaust/airbox. Rejet to 20/60/132/one o-ring/1.25 turns out, +2 mojo

Watcher

#11
Quote from: Darkstar on May 02, 2017, 04:25:06 AM
After reading your first post I ordered this Permatex RTV. Ad said it was good for valve covers, but packaging says it's not good with gas. Wouldn't all engine oil have traces of gas in it?

Not unless your carbs are leaking into the cylinders and fuel is then running past the pistons at rest...


But that's means more that you can't use the RTV for the fuel bowl gasket on the carbs, not that if there's a 0.5% fuel contamination in the oil it'll eat the RTV if you used it as an engine cover gasket...
"The point of a journey is not to arrive..."

-Neil Peart

Darkstar

Quote from: Watcher on May 02, 2017, 08:34:13 AM
But that's means more that you can't use the RTV for the fuel bowl gasket on the carbs, not that if there's a 0.5% fuel contamination in the oil it'll eat the RTV if you used it as an engine cover gasket...

Gotcha, just wanted to check before I started the job. Last thing I want is silicone bits floating around in my engine. Do you usually apply it to both grooves, the groove in the valve cover and the groove in the housing it fits into? Thanks!
2007F with 22k NY/NJ miles. Stock exhaust/airbox. Rejet to 20/60/132/one o-ring/1.25 turns out, +2 mojo

J_Walker

Quote from: Darkstar on May 02, 2017, 10:55:26 AM
Quote from: Watcher on May 02, 2017, 08:34:13 AM
But that's means more that you can't use the RTV for the fuel bowl gasket on the carbs, not that if there's a 0.5% fuel contamination in the oil it'll eat the RTV if you used it as an engine cover gasket...

Gotcha, just wanted to check before I started the job. Last thing I want is silicone bits floating around in my engine. Do you usually apply it to both grooves, the groove in the valve cover and the groove in the housing it fits into? Thanks!

I'm going to go outside a do mine, I got an OEM gasket from bikebandit when I did my rebuild, and now starting to see leaks from the top. I've been ignoring it but since I've been instructing how to do it here..

and my tires are on their way back for a refund [UGH MAIL HURRY] and I still have to get a NEW set of tires in their place. basically the bike is sitting waiting for tires.. the old ones have a big sheet metal screw hole in the middle..

Just do the "under side" of the gasket.

i'm walking outside right now to pull mine off. I'll take lots of pictures for ya! only difference is I'm using RTV red, instead of black, just because that's what I buy, but black is perfect for this. stay tuned.
-Walker

Watcher

#14
Instructions are to bead one side of the part and assemble immediately, then trim excess.
Seeing as you don't want any inside the engine I'd be inclined to run a thinner than expected bead and I'd actually let it set for a minute before joining so you don't get such a dramatic squish.
"The point of a journey is not to arrive..."

-Neil Peart

Darkstar

Quote from: Watcher on May 02, 2017, 12:01:00 PM
Instructions are to bead one side of the part

I understand, but there's two parts, one above the gasket and one below. Either could leak, so they should be sealed? Do they leak because one of them warped?
2007F with 22k NY/NJ miles. Stock exhaust/airbox. Rejet to 20/60/132/one o-ring/1.25 turns out, +2 mojo

Watcher

#16
Quote from: Darkstar on May 02, 2017, 05:32:08 PM
Quote from: Watcher on May 02, 2017, 12:01:00 PM
Instructions are to bead one side of the part

I understand, but there's two parts, one above the gasket and one below. Either could leak, so they should be sealed? Do they leak because one of them warped?

Honestly?  I've never used RTV to fix a gasket, I've always used it to replace a gasket.  It's gasket maker, not gasket mender, so I'm not entirely sure what you should do here.  But putting it top and bottom on an existing rubber gasket, especially a thick one like the valve cover, seems a sure way to make a mess, to me.

Best course of action I can think of is to cut away the gasket where it's damaged then use the RTV as directed with a slight overlap onto "good" gasket. 
"The point of a journey is not to arrive..."

-Neil Peart

Darkstar

Quote from: Watcher on May 02, 2017, 05:46:54 PM
maker

Well, that's the literal product name. Sometime I feel like a moron.
2007F with 22k NY/NJ miles. Stock exhaust/airbox. Rejet to 20/60/132/one o-ring/1.25 turns out, +2 mojo

J_Walker

Quote from: Watcher on May 02, 2017, 05:46:54 PM
Quote from: Darkstar on May 02, 2017, 05:32:08 PM
Quote from: Watcher on May 02, 2017, 12:01:00 PM
Instructions are to bead one side of the part

I understand, but there's two parts, one above the gasket and one below. Either could leak, so they should be sealed? Do they leak because one of them warped?

Honestly?  I've never used RTV to fix a gasket, I've always used it to replace a gasket.  It's gasket maker, not gasket mender, so I'm not entirely sure what you should do here.  But putting it top and bottom on an existing rubber gasket, especially a thick one like the valve cover, seems a sure way to make a mess, to me.

Best course of action I can think of is to cut away the gasket where it's damaged then use the RTV as directed with a slight overlap onto "good" gasket.

The big rubber gasket is leaking because its getting underneath the gasket. like 50000% of the time.* the RTV is to "tighten up" the gasket, making it a couple hundredths of an inch thicker. Stopping the leak. PREPARE FOR PICTURE DUMP
-Walker

Watcher

I suppose a real thin bead top and bottom to "fill in the cracks" wouldn't hurt.

I'm just going by how I've always used it, as a gasket replacement.  I once rebuilt a Jeep Cherokee transfer case without a single proper gasket.  Took two whole tubes of RTV!  Held oil for years.  Bought that truck with like 112k and finally junked it around 190k.  Still ran strong, the body deteriorated, though.
"The point of a journey is not to arrive..."

-Neil Peart

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