Rebuilding engine tomorrow after valves recut and engine sitting for a WHILE

[09dudharb]

Hi All,

The final parts required for my engine to go back together arrive tomorrow.

I wanted to do the rings and replace the inner 4 engine studs as they are very rusty but could not get the barrel off. Honestly I have given up trying. If compression is still poor and I cant resolve with shims then I will have to rethink but want to try the shim route first to at best buy me some time. I had a bent exhaust valve on the left which has been rectified but my compression when I bought the bike was 30psi left and 119psi on the right. I would assume the valves being recut will bring the compression on the right up and the valve replacement should bring them to a match.

Do you have any tips as the engine has not run and been drained of oil for maybe 18months?

I've cleaned the coke off the pistons so they are immaculate, vavles are the same.

When I had the valve seats recut they aqua blasted the head so its bone dry. Should I be putting any oil in the head at all or just wait for the oil pump to do its thing as it turns over?

Fresh oil and filter but will change both very soon as I expect it will pick up some crap. Good plan?

As soon as I get the head on i will check clearance to make sure it is within spec before turning over; all being well go for a fueled test, wait to heat up then check compression?

I will be following haynes manual, if they is anything else you can think of tips/concerns would be great to hear from you

Cheers

[The Buddha]

You can use the same oil you're running in it as assembly lube. You don't put these things together dry.
Cool.
Buddha.

[Bluesmudge]

After a rebuild I think its recommended to change the oil/filter and re-torque the head bolts after 100 miles.

[09dudharb]

Thanks for the reply both!

With a bit of luck I'll have it running this evening. Currently waiting by the window for the DHL man lol

[09dudharb]

Quick question about doing the timing... When you rotate the crank to tdc and line up crankshafts etc so notches are facing inwards the manual doesn't seem to mention which piston is tdc? Do you guys know off the top of your head? Feel like it should be the right looking at the cam lobes

[johnny ro]

Yup.

That position allows you to check the right side tappets, both valves shut. The left will have one open, i.e. BDC.

[09dudharb]

Thanks allot.

Another waiting game. Managed to shuffle shims around to get the intakes within clearance, but had to order some for the exhaust valves

[09dudharb]

Hi again.

I want to paint my frame etc but am not keen to put the engine in to test it then whip it out again to get the paint job done.

I have crafted an engine stand and am wondering how easy it would be to start the engine outside of the frame? My frame is at my garage which is about a mile away but have taken to loom from my donor bike in the hope to start it at home. What do I need to make this happen? Or is it more hassle than its worth? My donor bike is stripped down so parts are all in baggies that I can bring home no problem.

So I'd need the following...
Loom
Battery
Ignition
Carbs
Airbox
Fuel receptacle
Regulator/rectifier?
That's all I can think of off the top of my head... Is there anything else?