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How to adjust the float correctly? Updates need more help

Started by f155mph, April 18, 2004, 09:00:43 AM

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f155mph

My carbs are using 150 mains, 40 pilots, 2 1/2 turn air/fuel, 2 shims, and cone style k&n with Jardine exhaust.

Problem the bike hessitate at 3K-4K rpm.  So I took the carbs apart, cleaned it and adjusted the float height.  Now the bike will not run, it will stall.

I think I did something wrong by pushing the tab down too far.  I am not sure what is the correct setting for the float.  How do I measure the float level?  Can someone please explain this to me?  I got one of those repair manual but I don't quite understand what they are saying.  For example what part of the float is considered the top?  Do they want the middle of the float where it is higher or the back closest to the valve?   I guess I am just not sure where and how to measure to get the correct setting.  Any help will be greatly appriciated. :thumb:

f155mph

Anyone please!!!! Help!!!  Nice weather, can't ride is driving me nuts!

TheGoodGuy

bump for you..

but search teh forums.. for float height .. its in there.. plenty of threads..
'01 GS500. Mods: Katana Shock, Progessive Springs, BobB's V&H  Advancer Clone, JeffD's LED tail lights & LED licence plate bolt running lights, flanders superbike bars, magnet under the bike. Recent mods: Rejet with 20/62.5/145, 3 shims on needle, K&N Lunch box.

The Buddha

Not run at all??? You havefuel flow or delivery issues... Run like shaZam! OK fine floats are low, overflowing with gas into the air filter... float is too high... not run = in flow. Check tank petcock and see if its flowing... and try prime to see if it fills the bowls... then try and see if it starts.
Cool.
Srinath.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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f155mph

As of the last time I play with it about 5 months ago.  The bike will start, but when I put it in gear the bike will just stalled.  I must say I am not too thrill about this.  I hate taking the bike apart adjust it and put back together and have to do it again since it wasn't right.  I did that like 3 times before I gave up.  Since it been a while I am willing to try it again.  So I just want to get the right way of doing it so I don't have to waste so much time on it.  I did do a search but I couldn't come up with anything.  Someone did mention using the U Tube method.  If someone can tell me how to do that, that will be great!

Von Vester

Very important when adjusting float height. DO NOT compress the little spring on top of the float valve. Adjust the float so that the float tab just rests on top of the valve stem without pushing on it. The top of the float should be almost level, however, measure height at the end farthest from the pivot. Hope this helps.
As my Uncle Bilbo used to say, "It's a dangerous thing taking your motorcycle out of the garage. If you don't keep your wits about you there's no telling where you'll be swept off to."

Rema1000

I did not have much luck measuring the float level with the carbs off the bike.  I thought I had moved it up my 1/8 inch, but it actually went up more than 1/4 inch (as measured with the carbs back on the bike).  Unfortunately, I think the reliable way to measure is with the carbs on the bike:



Park the bike on center stand on a level surface.
Set the frame petcock to PRIme.
Connect a short clear hose to the float bowl drain tap. The hose needs to be narrow (about 1mm to 1.5mm inner diameter).
Shape the hose into a "U", and hold the loose end of the hose up against the side of the carburetor.
Loosen the bowl drain screw with an 8mm nut driver until the hose fills with fuel and quits bubbling.
Move the loose end of the hose up and down; the level of fuel in the hose (as seen against the carburetor body) should stay the same, even while the hose itself is moving up and down.

The level of gas in the hose should be right at the line between the bowl and the carb body (line shown in yellow above).

If the level of the fuel appears to climb slowly until it is an inch or more above the yellow line, then it's likely that the float needle is not seating at all.

But really, float height should only make it run too rich or too lean.  It shouldn't keep the bike from running altogether.  

You said that it kills as soon as you put it in gear... even with the clutch lever pulled all the way?   If you put it on the centerstand, then start it in neutral, then pull the clutch lever all the way, then put it in gear... does the rear wheel spin?  If so then your clutch may not be adjusted properly.

Or, try starting with the bike in gear (parked on the centerstand, with the sidestand up, and with the clutch lever pulled-in).  Is there voltage to the coils and spark at the plugs?  If not, then maybe your sidestand relay is bad, and thinks that your sidestand is down.  The bike will kill ignition if it is in-gear and thinks that the sidestand is down.
You cannot escape our master plan!

jkstyle834


Kerry

Quote from: f155mphHow do I measure the float level?  Can someone please explain this to me?
To avoid removing / reinstalling the carbs too many times, see the old thread
Checking Float Height w/ Carbs Apart
for info on taking the measurement before reinstalling the carbs.

Once the carbs are back on, double check using the info from Rema1000.  For an alternate set of pictures and instructions, see the Float Height Check page on my website.

EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net.
Yellow 1999 GS500E
Kerry's Suzuki GS500 Page

GRU

Quote from: f155mphAs of the last time I play with it about 5 months ago.  The bike will start, but when I put it in gear the bike will just stalled.  I must say I am not too thrill about this.  I hate taking the bike apart adjust it and put back together and have to do it again since it wasn't right.  I did that like 3 times before I gave up.  Since it been a while I am willing to try it again.  So I just want to get the right way of doing it so I don't have to waste so much time on it.  I did do a search but I couldn't come up with anything.  Someone did mention using the U Tube method.  If someone can tell me how to do that, that will be great!


did you say it stalls when you put it in gear? if so, then it's the kick stand sensor...make sure the kick stand is all the way up (pushing the sensor)
that sensor is there so you don't forget to put the kick stand up when you start riding....if the kick stand isn't pushing the sensor then the bike will turn off when you put it in gear

f155mph

Thanks for all the help!!! The kick stand wasn't down.  It would stall when I put it in gear and let the clutch go.  For what i can remember.  I tried to start her up again but she die right away.  It was cold so I push her back in the garge and I hadn't touch it until this past weekend.  So she sat for 5 months.

Ok I read some of the old post and I am kinda confused.  Do I measure the float up-side-down?  What i mean is the float is pointed toward the sky and the black caps facing the ground.  Or do I measure the float like how the carbs are mounted?

scratch

Measure them sideways. Seriously, hold them with the floatbowls away from you and tilt them so the floats swing down away from you and then as you rotate the carbs back towards yourself, causing the floats to slowly fall back up into the carb, when they push the needle into the seat and finally rest gently on the plunger without depressing it (or maybe not depressing it completely if the spring seems pretty weak behind the plunger). And measure to the highest/furthest point (14mm is what I use) on the float.
The motorcycle is no longer the hobby, the skill has become the hobby.

Power does not compare to skill.  What good is power without the skill to use it?

QuoteOriginally posted by Wintermute on BayAreaRidersForum.com
good judgement trumps good skills every time.

Rema1000

Yep.  Just like Scratch said.  And have a ruler handy, so you can tilt the carbs back and forth with the left hand, and when the float is sitting just lighly, then measure with the ruler.  I try to look straight down from above and squint a bit... it's hard to be sure, since the ruler is sitting on the carb body, a 1/2 inch from the floats, and the floats have a curved bottom.  It seems like an inexact way to measure.

I've heard that if you have to do it oftent enough, you can make a cardboard cutout shaped like a bridge.  The ends of the bridge sit on the edges of the carb body, and the middle of the bridge would just touch the floats, when you have it right.
You cannot escape our master plan!

f155mph

Ok I did it, I got the bike back together.  I used the U tube method to check the float.  I got the right side to be perfect and the left side is about 3/8" off.  The fuel is above the float bowl line.  I guess I have the take the bike apart again.  

Which way should I bend the tab???  

Oh I try to start it, but it will not run.  I am not sure why.  I had the petcock set on pri with the choke on full and the bike just kept turning over, but will not start.  Any suggestion?  The tank is about half full.

Thanks for the help!

Rema1000

Float 3/8" high on one side should not keep the bike from starting; I guess I've not seen mine more than 1/4" high, but it should still run.  Do you smell gasoline after you fail to start the bike? You should.

I'd check the spark next.  

You might try boosting the battery a bit: use jumper cables to connect the bike battery to a car battery (the car can be left turned-off for this).  It can be possible to have enough juice to run the starter, but not enough left to get a fat spark.
You cannot escape our master plan!

f155mph

Could I have flooded the engine?  I am going to check the sparks.  I hope is somthing simple.   I am going to fill her up just to make sure it isn't fuel delivery problem.  

Oh I do have a question.  On the carbs there are two T fittings.  The bottom one by the bowls is connected to the petcock.  The upper one is connected to the gas tank right?

Thanks

Kerry

Quote from: f155mphI try to start it, but it will not run.  I am not sure why.  I had the petcock set on pri with the choke on full and the bike just kept turning over, but will not start.
I'll bet that you forgot to turn the under-tank petcock back on.  (Been there, done that.)  The screwdriver slot needs to be vertical; if it's diagonal or horizontal you're not getting any fuel flow from the tank.


Quote from: f155mphOn the carbs there are two T fittings. The bottom one by the bowls is connected to the petcock. The upper one is connected to the gas tank right?
Um, no.  That hose just drapes over the airbox, with its other end open to the air.  (It provides an air pressure baseline for the fuel system ... or some such thing.)

On my '99 the upper hose is held in place by a wrap-around wire "clamp" that is attached with one of the air filter mounting screws.
Yellow 1999 GS500E
Kerry's Suzuki GS500 Page

f155mph

Maybe that why I can't start the bike.  I connected the upper T hose to the gas tank to the tube thingy by the petcock.  I knew it didn't make sense since that thing is for drainage.    Then again even if I connected it wrong that tube thingy still is open to the open air.  

I did open the valve on the petcock or I wouldn't have gas in the float bowls,

The Buddha

OK 3/8th too high is really really really high... I'd worry if it was more than 1mm high, 3/8th is nearly 10 mm. yes flodding the motor, filling up the airbox, drowning out the saprk with gas all of those can and probably have happened. set it back to the other ones level, and take out the plugs and clean it, and turn the motor over with plugs out to get rid of gas in the cylinder, then try to fit it back together and start it.
Cool.
Srinath.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
I run a business based on other people's junk.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Kerry

Quote from: f155mphI did open the valve on the petcock or I wouldn't have gas in the float bowls
Good point!  My bad.  :oops:
Yellow 1999 GS500E
Kerry's Suzuki GS500 Page

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