OK will someone please tell me the size of the stock air corrector holes in the carb? I am referring to the holes on either side of the needle. The POS, PO :flipoff: :cookoo: drilled them out :nono::bs: :mad: and I think that is the core of my problems.
Thank you,
Mike
Quote from: Oklahoma_Mike on August 02, 2007, 12:32:32 PM
OK will someone please tell me the size of the stock air corrector holes in the carb? I am referring to the holes on either side of the needle. The POS, PO :flipoff: :cookoo: drilled them out :nono::bs: :mad: and I think that is the core of my problems.
Thank you,
Mike
Ah, another aborted install of a Dynojet abortion. :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
I just reamed one of mine out (the one with small hole) until there was almost no plastic left and left the other side plugged. Works fine, but why do morons persist in installing overpriced garbage aka "jet kits"?
-b.
The main hole is 3.5mm and it is stepped down to 2.5mm.
That drilling till the corrector is about gone is a good idea, however you want to leave some of that thing there, else it will fragment and fly into the motor.
BTW, you can have 2 smaller than stock holes and still ahve the thing work well.
Stock holes are too big, DJ crap is faaaar too small, and you get there by drilling ... :thumb: ... can you say "making a bad problem worse".
The 2 slides should ahve equal sized holes. Dont worry about bringing back to stock. Drill, sand the frayed ends and you're good.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on August 02, 2007, 07:52:02 PM
That drilling till the corrector is about gone is a good idea, however you want to leave some of that thing there, else it will fragment and fly into the motor.
If it does fragment, no worries, the chip would just melt and burn off. Motors get HOT inside and the correctors are made of some sort of polythene I think.
-b.
Thank you fellow :cheers: Next time I buy new I am sick of fixing other peoples F-ups :flipoff: :2guns:
BTW So I understand this correctly, what is the purpose of the slide holes, to control accent and descent of the needle? If that is the case does vac on top of the diaphragm lift the needle? I have a mid range stumble and have moved the clip all over and it doesn't get any better just worse. The plug looks good I am thinking it is the needle/correctors causing the problem as the stumble is in the mid RPM range. I also drilled both holes as suggested with no improvement. I pluged one and nothing seemed to change.
Typically if you need or not need the correctors (WTF correctors - lets call them what they are ... plastic plugs) ... the symptom is this.
Open the throttle slowly and the bike accelerates smoothly ...
Whack it open and it falls on its face with a dry exhaust note.
Definetly slides comming up too fast so put them in a slide that doesn't have them.
Whack it open and it accelerates too slowly = get rid of them.
However this is the killer.
You almost never need it. Why ??? you can fit smooth bores on a bike and run it and it will run great. So the POS butterflies and the vacuum operated slide are literally worthless, and slowing the damn slides down is worthless X 2.
CV carbs are just a bit better for fuel economy and overall less temperamental running and easier setup's. In a street useage situation it works great.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on August 03, 2007, 10:24:18 AM
Whack it open and it falls on its face with a dry exhaust note.
Definetly slides comming up too fast so put them in a slide that doesn't have them.
Thank you Sir!! :bowdown:
that is what I get! slow throttle opening no problems. Whack :o it an sputer city with a slow/medium accel.
Has anyone tried a quicksilver on there GS? I can weld up a storm and am thinking of making a 1-2 manifold for my quicksilver :cookoo: (am I crazy)one carb one problem/ two carbs a Sh*$ load of problems. What is the size of the venture on the stock mikuni's My quciksilver is 38MM I think.
OK you need a slide corrector in ... or if you have 1 you need the other one too.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on August 03, 2007, 11:25:30 AM
OK you need a slide corrector in ... or if you have 1 you need the other one too.
Cool.
Srinath.
Thank you for taking the time!!! :cheers:
I will do!
Quote from: Oklahoma_Mike on August 03, 2007, 11:22:22 AM
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on August 03, 2007, 10:24:18 AM
Whack it open and it falls on its face with a dry exhaust note.
Definetly slides comming up too fast so put them in a slide that doesn't have them.
Thank you Sir!! :bowdown:
that is what I get! slow throttle opening no problems. Whack :o it an sputer city with a slow/medium accel.
Has anyone tried a quicksilver on there GS? I can weld up a storm and am thinking of making a 1-2 manifold for my quicksilver :cookoo: (am I crazy)one carb one problem/ two carbs a Sh*$ load of problems. What is the size of the venture on the stock mikuni's My quciksilver is 38MM I think.
What is a quick silver carb ???
Smooth bore ??? then you'd prolly need a 42 or larger but it would work. OK if 38 works 42 will work even better. I am swapping a 40 CV for a 36 smooth bore on my savage 650. Lets see if it works. Tonight matter of fact is probably the first day it may happen.
Cool.
Srinath.
I have thought of this but never tried it, so do so at your peril.
You take a bolt, like a 1/4 inch bolt and slice off its head and drill in the center so it will sit on the needle. Then put it there and re assemble.
What you're doing is, making the slide heavier and making the spring preload higher. Should alter your slide from a fast riser to a more leisurely riser. How big a bolt and what not ??? no clue, trial and error. I'd start with a 3-4mm nut and go up from there. Oh yea, replace that plastic donut thing with a metal nut for starters.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on August 03, 2007, 11:39:57 AM
I have thought of this but never tried it, so do so at your peril.
You take a bolt, like a 1/4 inch bolt and slice off its head and drill in the center so it will sit on the needle. Then put it there and re assemble.
What you're doing is, making the slide heavier and making the spring preload higher. Should alter your slide from a fast riser to a more leisurely riser. How big a bolt and what not ??? no clue, trial and error. I'd start with a 3-4mm nut and go up from there. Oh yea, replace that plastic donut thing with a metal nut for starters.
Cool.
Srinath.
We are on the same page I have tried that with a small thick nylon washer I got at lowes on top of the needle it did help so i might kick it up a notch and try the bolt.
[/quote]
What is a quick silver carb ???
Smooth bore ??? then you'd prolly need a 42 or larger but it would work. OK if 38 works 42 will work even better. I am swapping a 40 CV for a 36 smooth bore on my savage 650. Lets see if it works. Tonight matter of fact is probably the first day it may happen.
Cool.
Srinath.
[/quote]
Manual for the Quicksilver.
http://www.ccworks.org/pafiledb/uploads/2d47c49abf1bb78458027674bf98a237.pdf (http://www.ccworks.org/pafiledb/uploads/2d47c49abf1bb78458027674bf98a237.pdf)
No jet so no Bullsh*& just a needle and a knob to adjust. Great carb and Cheap you can find them for under $100. made by Edelbrock.
I got my Quicksilver for my 87 Savage Worked like a champ. I H8 running the valves on the Savage you can never get them tightend down with the right qamount of clearance, but no shims to fu&% with.
Plastic wont work. Get some thing heavy, and weight it down.
Cool.
Srinath.
I had the same problem, except that I was the one that installed the plugs. I could never get the bike running right, so I bought new slides and diaphragms. My problem cleared up after replacing them. My advice would be to replace the slides, if you can't get anything else to work.
John
Quote from: DrtRydr23 on August 03, 2007, 01:40:40 PM
I had the same problem, except that I was the one that installed the plugs. I could never get the bike running right, so I bought new slides and diaphragms. My problem cleared up after replacing them. My advice would be to replace the slides, if you can't get anything else to work.
John
Where did you get the new ones from? How much??
Thank you for the info :thumb:
On bike bandit a new slide is $37.32
http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view~schem_dept_id~725131~section_dept_id~1~section_dept_name~OEM+%28Stock+Parts%29~dept_type_id~2~model_dept_year~1996~model_dept_mfr~Suzuki~model_dept_id~703270~model_dept_name~GS500ET.asp (http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view~schem_dept_id~725131~section_dept_id~1~section_dept_name~OEM+%28Stock+Parts%29~dept_type_id~2~model_dept_year~1996~model_dept_mfr~Suzuki~model_dept_id~703270~model_dept_name~GS500ET.asp)
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on August 03, 2007, 11:39:57 AM
I have thought of this but never tried it, so do so at your peril.
You take a bolt, like a 1/4 inch bolt and slice off its head and drill in the center so it will sit on the needle.
Maybe that's what this fellow was trying to do....
http://vtxstar.com/sitebuilderImages/Carbs/mess_thb1.JPG (http://vtxstar.com/sitebuilderImages/Carbs/mess_thb1.JPG)
Sometimes you get real crap off ebay carb sales. At least I had some spare parts out of the deal.
S'up Srinath? How's your summer been?
Damn That sucks!!!!!!!!
Quote from: bucks1605 on August 05, 2007, 10:59:19 AM
On bike bandit a new slide is $37.32
http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view~schem_dept_id~725131~section_dept_id~1~section_dept_name~OEM+%28Stock+Parts%29~dept_type_id~2~model_dept_year~1996~model_dept_mfr~Suzuki~model_dept_id~703270~model_dept_name~GS500ET.asp (http://houseofmotorcycles.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/oem_schematic_view~schem_dept_id~725131~section_dept_id~1~section_dept_name~OEM+%28Stock+Parts%29~dept_type_id~2~model_dept_year~1996~model_dept_mfr~Suzuki~model_dept_id~703270~model_dept_name~GS500ET.asp)
Ditto. That's where I got mine. I bought the diaphragms and little o-rings that go under the caps. I had lost one o-ring, and one of my diaphragms wouldn't seat correctly.
John
Quote from: starwalt on August 05, 2007, 12:09:09 PM
Quote from: seshadri_srinath on August 03, 2007, 11:39:57 AM
I have thought of this but never tried it, so do so at your peril.
You take a bolt, like a 1/4 inch bolt and slice off its head and drill in the center so it will sit on the needle.
Maybe that's what this fellow was trying to do....
http://vtxstar.com/sitebuilderImages/Carbs/mess_thb1.JPG (http://vtxstar.com/sitebuilderImages/Carbs/mess_thb1.JPG)
Sometimes you get real crap off ebay carb sales. At least I had some spare parts out of the deal.
S'up Srinath? How's your summer been?
A good reason to bid cheap or walk away. Sometimes you can get lucky though.
What the heck was he trying to do?
Do larger holes in the bottom of the slides make the needle rise faster or slower?
Quote from: Oklahoma_Mike on August 14, 2007, 12:03:00 PM
Do larger holes in the bottom of the slides make the needle rise faster or slower?
Faster. We know that because DJ advises removing a corrector plug per slide for racing apps. IIRC, you were considering going up to 140 MJ to solve the problem; that would probably be a mistake with DJ needles (which stop at 134 in the kit). Also, from prior discussion, you may have the needle spacers out of order. Goes: SS washer / plastic donut /e-clip / plastic washer. :cheers:
This thread prompted me to go out an work on my carbs this morning. If I whacked the throttle open below 4,500 RPM the bike would fall flat on its face and sputter for close to half a second, then take off. I figured it was the slides, but I've been riding too much to want to screw with it. I knew the previous owner had blocked the slides and installed dynojet needles when he installed a lunchbox filter and V&H system.
When I bought it, it would not run at all. I swapped out the dynojet needles for stock, but didn't unplug the slides figuring I would do one change at a time. Today, partly because of this thread, I went out and worked on the slides. The previous owner had drilled through the 2.5mm orifices to install #6 screws. Rather than buy new slides, I drilled out one of the holes and screws to .125" to obtain a nearly equivalent orifice area. (Orifice flow is proportional to area, not diameter) The original area of the two orifices is .0152 square inches. The area of the .125" hole is .0123 square inches.
What a difference! I went for about a ten minute ride, testing out all areas of the powerband from idle to redline. No more sputtering, no more hesitating, and an extra 10MPH on the top end. Whacking the throttle open at 4,000 produces instant power. Not only that, but the RPM rises much faster when blipping the throttle during downshifting. Idle to 4,000 is much smoother as well, which makes parking lot manuvers even easier. Overall, MUCH BETTER! :thumb:
Current specs for those interested:
K&N lunchbox
V&H full system
150 mains
40 pilots
Stock needles with two washers (May change this if needed)
2.5 turns out on the idle
.125" slide equalization orifice
Previous gas mileage: 50MPG at 65-70 indicated in sixth for full tank
New gas mileage: TBD
Lesson: Don't plug the damned slide orifices. ;)
Good deal!!
So to make sure I got this stright you have one .125 hole in each slide and the other hole per slide is blocked off with #6 steel screws. I am asking because if they are steel or such the weight would come into play with slide rise.
Quote from: Oklahoma_Mike on August 15, 2007, 10:04:11 AM
Good deal!!
So to make sure I got this stright you have one .125 hole in each slide and the other hole per slide is blocked off with #6 steel screws. I am asking because if they are steel or such the weight would come into play with slide rise.
Yes, there is now a single .125 hole though the slide instead of two 2.5mm holes. I drilled out one of the nylon screws the previous owner installed and left the other one intact.
No, the screw blocking off the other orifice is a #6 nylon screw. Sorry, I forgot to mention that.
Oh, be sure to check the screws to see that they're tight. I added a little bit of superglue to one because it was a tad loose.
Also, I find it helpful to spray the plastic slide with silicone lubricant before reinstalling. This will help the slides move freely within their guides. You can spray the guides too.
Quote from: GeeP on August 15, 2007, 10:41:55 AM
Also, I find it helpful to spray the plastic slide with silicone lubricant before reinstalling. This will help the slides move freely within their guides. You can spray the guides too.
This along with getting stock needles I think will be the key. I have inconsistent throttle response that leads me to believe that my slides are sticking as well. :thumb:
GeeP,
You in quality/engineering?
Quote from: Oklahoma_Mike on August 15, 2007, 12:39:10 PM
GeeP,
You in quality/engineering?
Quality control and engineering is part of my business, but not my field of work. My work could best be described as "custom manufacturing".
In short, I'll build anybody anything they can imagine, as long as the checks keep cashing. :icon_mrgreen: