This bike is awesome on the curves with the progressives. Big improvement. :thumb: Any of you who have the stock springs need to make the switch. It wasn't difficult, although I replaced the oil the 'lazy way'.
been trying to tell everyone that for 4 months now.Up grade to a katana shock and it really gets better.
Got the shock on mine. Need to get the springs installed.
AFTER, I get the thing to run on a consisitant basis.
CARB issues!!!!!! >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
I'm happy to hear that you like progressive. I'm planning to get them either. I thought about sonic or racetech but they are to expensive and to advanced... I neither race nor ride twisties. I live in NYC so we don't have twisties here, instead we have plenty of damaged roads with huge holes in them... :mad: Progressive should be fine and not as stiff as the other ones.
How much did you pay for yours including shipping price??
cheers
KaMeL
I got mine off of ebay for about 50 bucks. Just one thing to remember when installing them: REMEMBER TO PUT THE FORK OIL IN BOTH OF THE FORKS.
I put oil in one of them capped it, then started on the next one. I thought, well this is easy, so the next one should be easier.
I dumped the oil replaced the spring, added the washer, put in my spacer and capped it up, not even realizing that I forgot to put the oil in.
Half way home from my buddies house(thats were I did this at) I remembered that I didnt put the oil in. I felt so stupid.
But putting the oil in the second time wasnt that bad.
But I love the progressive springs. I is definitely worth it. I dont bottom out every time I go to stop.
ok...... I've heard enough about new springs/shocks for the GS....they can't be THAT much better.
Someone explain it to me. What is different in a spring/shock that is so much better than stock. What do they change?
Note: I'm interested in upgrading my springs and shocks if all the hub lub is true :thumb:
do u have any pics that u can post
Quote from: tussey on October 05, 2007, 02:54:51 PM
ok...... I've heard enough about new springs/shocks for the GS....they can't be THAT much better.
Someone explain it to me. What is different in a spring/shock that is so much better than stock. What do they change?
Note: I'm interested in upgrading my springs and shocks if all the hub lub is true :thumb:
x2
:dunno_white:
Different springs are:
-Stiffer so you can brake harder/dive into corners with more confidence/ride at higher speeds and stay stable.
-Progressive-wound springs are progressive, so they get stiffer the deeper you get into the travel of the fork.
-Shock springs help balance the chassis for mid-corner handling stability.
Basically, they make the bike work for you, instead of you having to fight a too-soft setup as you do with a GS as delivered from the factory.
Believe the hype!
The progressive springs are twice the length of the stock springs. The stock springs come with about a foot long spacer. Really a foot long spacer! The spacer for the progressive is about an inch. So thats a complete foot more spring action than stock.
So you can imagine how much better it would be. No more bottoming out coming to a stop or hitting a bump.
ok so I wanna upgrade my shock and my springs.....what exactly should I be looking for? What's the best shock and I suppose progessive springs are the best for the front. Is it just a set of springs. I've never taken my forks apart and I don't know what's in them. What will I have to upgrade? thanks.
Quote from: shaun on October 05, 2007, 04:51:04 PM
do u have any pics that u can post
Yes, you can believe the hype. :thumb:
I keep neglecting to take comparative pictures every time I install (or help install) a set of Progressives. I've done 4 sets now. :oops:
But you can see a decent picture (unfortunately a little small) near the bottom of this page of
pantablo's:
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/id2.html
What you see is what you get. The spindly spring (and the LONG spacer) on top is the stock setup. The
much beefier (and tighter) spring with the ~.75" spacer on the bottom is the Progressive setup. Night and day!
{Get ready to run
AdAware after visiting that page. I guess that's just how tripod.com is. Perhaps
sanjay has ripped a copy of the picture for the GS500 wiki?}
No one has mentioned that the spring stiffness directly affects how much weight you can carry. According to Race Tech, the 0.595 kg/mm stock springs in the pre-2004 GS is appropriate for a 45lb rider. I'm not kidding. The stock GS suspension is simply not built for you. When I put my 180lbs on it, most of the suspension travel has been used up just carrying my weight. There's none left for soaking up bumps.
I also have a photo in my thread about 2004 springs:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=37029.0
(http://codefarm.org/gs_springs.jpg)
The pre-2004 springs on the left are undeniably awful. The 2004 springs in the middle look better. The 0.9kg/mm springs that can carry my arse are definitely beefy.
The ride quality is 1000% improved.
Could i stick some of your sponge like springs in my ZXR.
Damn they have a reputation for having rock hard suspension designed for the track but bloody hell. Extremely road unfriendly.
have you considered the oil replacement...and using a lighter weight oil for the 400?
you still suck cause you have a true baby ninja
Lol its a fantastic bike and the suspension is lovely on bigger faster roads but i live in the country and as much as i like my zxr a ktm 990 sm would suit me much better!
at the risk of sounding like an idiot :laugh: ... can you post a link to the springs (like where to buy them) so I know WHAT I'm looking for before I go bug the boyfriend to "fix" something else. hehe
What do you know? The links in this 3-year-old post (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=10732.msg88945#msg88945) are still good ... and the prices have both DROPPED!
EBAY! $65 shipped (to NY) here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Progressive-Fork-Springs-Pair-30-45-111128_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35592QQihZ003QQitemZ130155686931QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V
I'm waiting for them. Just purchased.
Perhaps I should have been less lazy?
If you go to http://www.mawonline.com/progress.htm and search for either 02517 (the MAW part number) or 111128 (the manufacturer's part number) you can get the springs for $52.95.
Not sure what shipping would cost.
Kerry, you still lurking here? Or anyone else who has recently been into their forks? I am in the middle of trying to change out my fork seals. Been leaking way too long. Have one leg off the bike, broke the damper rod bolt loose with an impact driver, removed the top cap, removed the, apparently, Progressive spring, poured what was left of the old black oil out, and now cannot get the damper rod bolt to back out anymore. Everything inside keeps turning. I put the spring back in with the top cap in place and all my weight on it to bottom it out and have my son turn the bolt with a ratchet but still same results. Everything still turns, even the tube sometimes, but the bolt just won't back off. Any ideas? By the way if these are Progressive springs (long, variable pitch windings, and very short- 3/4 to 1"- spacer) I can't imagine what stock springs would be like. These are still too soft. Of course most of the oil is gone by now and I am going to use 15wt when I reassemble, if I ever get that far. I also now weight around 190 lbs. and have put 38,000 miles on it in 31 months of ownership. That is what bikes are for right? To ride!!!
Hey Burm!
Sounds like you need to make yourself a special tool. :thumb:
Check out the 7th and 11th posts in THIS OLD THREAD (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=7084.0).
Quote from: bigburma on October 13, 2007, 01:26:56 PM
Kerry, you still lurking here? Or anyone else who has recently been into their forks? I am in the middle of trying to change out my fork seals. Been leaking way too long. Have one leg off the bike, broke the damper rod bolt loose with an impact driver, removed the top cap, removed the, apparently, Progressive spring, poured what was left of the old black oil out, and now cannot get the damper rod bolt to back out anymore. Everything inside keeps turning. I put the spring back in with the top cap in place and all my weight on it to bottom it out and have my son turn the bolt with a ratchet but still same results. Everything still turns, even the tube sometimes, but the bolt just won't back off. Any ideas? By the way if these are Progressive springs (long, variable pitch windings, and very short- 3/4 to 1"- spacer) I can't imagine what stock springs would be like. These are still too soft. Of course most of the oil is gone by now and I am going to use 15wt when I reassemble, if I ever get that far. I also now weight around 190 lbs. and have put 38,000 miles on it in 31 months of ownership. That is what bikes are for right? To ride!!!
Try pulling the tube apart while spinning the bolt out. At the shop I'll put the slider in the fork clamp, upside down. Then pull down on the fork tube with one hand and use a butterfly impact (which seems to spin a little faster than the regular impact) to sping the bolt out. Be a little harder without the fork clamp, but if you hold the slider in one hand and have your son pull down on the tube that should work. Put some cardboard or something down on the floor, the damper rod is going to drop right out.
If you decide you need stiffer springs we have a number of rates available for the GS.
the link I gave to eBay is the same company although by some strange reason the shipping is cheaper through eBay.... :dunno_white:
My bad ... I never even checked the eBay link! :oops:
It looks like the eBay Buy It Now price is the same ($52.95) and UPS shipping is $9.18 ... making a total of $62.13. I guess when you said "$65 shipped" you were simply rounding up?
Good job on the cheaper shipping! :thumb:
How do you know what springs you have? My gs has been my first bike and I know everyone says the suspension is too soft but I've NEVER bottomed out and I've had some hard brakes, the PO did some modifications to the bike (bigger mains, air/fuel mixture screw) so it's possible he might have added Progressives. If I pull them out will it be plainly obvious?
Also, what kind of suspension do you want for the track? For street riding?
Also, is fork oil special oil? or is it regular oil I can pick at autozone?
for racing you propably want to go with Race Tech straight rate springs or Sonic also straight rate. As far as I know Progressives are good for commuting and everyday riding. But may be too soft for racing.
so would race tech be too hard for daily driver?
Quote from: tussey on October 13, 2007, 06:23:34 PM
How do you know what springs you have? [...] If I pull them out will it be plainly obvious?
If you have stock springs, yes. It will be pretty obvious. :icon_confused:
Quote from: tussey on October 13, 2007, 06:23:34 PM
is fork oil special oil? or is it regular oil I can pick at autozone?
I doubt AutoZone will have what you need. You'll find fork oil in the
Fluids or
Chemicals areas of bike dealer shops or bike catalogs (printed or online). Some brand names:
Suzuki
Pro Honda
YamaLube
Bel-Ray
Maxima
Spectro
Motorex
MotulStandard weight is 10W. 5W is thinner (less stiff suspension) ... 15W is thicker.
Quote from: tussey on October 13, 2007, 06:58:57 PM
so would race tech be too hard for daily driver?
it depends.... they have different rates. there are softer and harder. check this website: http://www.racetech.com/evalving/SpringRateCalculation/dirtspring.asp?brand=Suzuki&yr=04-07&ml=GS500&formuse=form1&SpringType=Fork
also official RaceTech web: http://www.racetech.com/
Quote from: tussey on October 13, 2007, 06:23:34 PM
How do you know what springs you have? My gs has been my first bike and I know everyone says the suspension is too soft but I've NEVER bottomed out and I've had some hard brakes, the PO did some modifications to the bike (bigger mains, air/fuel mixture screw) so it's possible he might have added Progressives. If I pull them out will it be plainly obvious?
Also, what kind of suspension do you want for the track? For street riding?
Also, is fork oil special oil? or is it regular oil I can pick at autozone?
Fork oil is different than regular oil, you'll need to buy it at a motorcycle shop.
There really isn't a big difference in the suspension required for the track or the street. In either case you're wanting to make full use of the available travel, but without bottoming, with a nice linear action throughout the travel. For the forks, the trick is to have springs that don't bottom even under maximum braking, and still have a little bit a travel left to deal with bumps and ripples. At both ends you're trying to absorb the energy from the bumps without upsetting the chassis and while maintaining as constant a tire pressure on the road surface as possible. For a track bike, because the suspension loading is a little higher you run slighter stiffer springs. For example, my race SVs use 0.90 fork springs, and my street one uses 0.85s. That's with the street bike being 40lbs heavier than the race bike. On the rear, it's an 11.8 spring for racing and an 11.0 for the street. The total weight/spring rate ratio ends up being about 10% stiffer on the race bikes, which really isn't that much.
Damping needs to be matched to the spring rates and weight of the bike, and linearized relative to velocity (suspension velocity, not bike speed. :) ) as much as possible.
Quote from: tussey on October 13, 2007, 06:58:57 PM
so would race tech be too hard for daily driver?
Not at all. IMO, good straight rate springs are always superior to progressively wound ones. We have a write-up on our website explaining what at:
http://www.sonicsprings.com/catalog/straight_vs_prog_tech_article.php
That said, ANY aftermarket spring will be a big improvement over stock.
Quote from: Kerry on October 13, 2007, 06:01:41 PM
My bad ... I never even checked the eBay link! :oops:
It looks like the eBay Buy It Now price is the same ($52.95) and UPS shipping is $9.18 ... making a total of $62.13. I guess when you said "$65 shipped" you were simply rounding up?
Good job on the cheaper shipping! :thumb:
Could it get any less? Yes! It's even cheaper when you buy from MAW via underbid.com. $51.36 for the springs plus $9.37 for shipping for a total of $60.73.
Still would have been cheaper if I bought them when I was contemplating the change years ago...
I got my springs yesterday. They look great! (long and thick) I don't know how my stock springs look like cause I did not take them out yet (college is eating up my free time)
What I like is fact that MAW except springs supplied PCV pipe and spacers. So I don't even need to go to the hardware store to get the PCV piep to make spacers. GREAT job MAW.
hopefully I'll install them on saturday.
let me ask a qucik question: how necessary is it for me to change the fork oil?? is it a MUST?? I have 04 with 1500 miles on it...
thanks
Quote from: kml.krk on October 17, 2007, 10:22:27 AM
how necessary is it for me to change the fork oil?? is it a MUST?? I have 04 with 1500 miles on it...
The "1500 miles" figure doesn't trigger a definite "YES" ... but the '04 model year almost does.
Fork oil is a little pricey (especially for a starving college student :icon_rolleyes:) so I'd say it's up to you. Theoretically you should change the oil every couple of years, but your bike won't fall apart if you put it off a while longer.
One advantange of changing the oil out is that you would have a documented baseline for future oil changes. (You
do keep maintenance records, right? :icon_mrgreen:)
Here's a question: How are your fork seals doing? Any leaks? The best time to change the oil may be when you do your seals.
Quote from: Kerry on October 17, 2007, 10:39:56 AM
Here's a question: How are your fork seals doing? Any leaks? The best time to change the oil may be when you do your seals.
no leaks at all - so I guess I'll be fine untill next season ;)
thanks for the information.
I will change the springs on Saturday and take my bike for a spin. I hope for the best.
I 'd like to know what you guys think about spacers? I just put in a set of spacers, probably 2 1/2 inches and the difference is huge. Very stiff front forks, super responsive, if a little twitchy. Any one else done it?
Quote from: kml.krk on October 17, 2007, 10:46:24 AM
I will change the springs on Saturday and take my bike for a spin. I hope for the best.
One other thing. You didn't mention which method you were going to use ... I assume you're going to do the "lazy man's method" from the top? (Remove handlebar, remove cap, pull old spacer and spring out, put new spring and spacer in.) If so, don't forget to do
one side at a time. :icon_rolleyes:
Even with this method, the fork oil coming off the old spring will look probably dirty enough that you'll ask yourself, "Maybe leaving that stuff in there isn't such a good idea?" Like I said, it may not be the
best option, but your bike won't fall apart right away or anything.
Quote from: elric8467 on October 17, 2007, 10:50:30 AM
I just put in a set of spacers, probably 2 1/2 inches and the difference is huge.
I assume that you still have the stock springs? (I don't think it would be possible to get the cap back on if you tried to use a 2 1/2" spacer with a set of Progressives.)
Quote from: elric8467 on October 17, 2007, 10:50:30 AM
Any one else done it?
He only used 1.5" inch spacers, but yes -- Marc Malagelada Duch went this route way back when the board was just getting started. Check out [his pioneering page on the subject (http://www.gstwin.com/making_fork_spacers.htm)] (from the "Modications" link on the main gstwin.com page).
I guess my real question was to those who have done it, how they like and so forth.
Quote from: Kerry on October 17, 2007, 11:15:38 AM
One other thing. You didn't mention which method you were going to use ... I assume you're going to do the "lazy man's method" from the top? (Remove handlebar, remove cap, pull old spacer and spring out, put new spring and spacer in.) If so, don't forget to do one side at a time. :icon_rolleyes:
Even with this method, the fork oil coming off the old spring will look probably dirty enough that you'll ask yourself, "Maybe leaving that stuff in there isn't such a good idea?" Like I said, it may not be the best option, but your bike won't fall apart right away or anything.
Yes. I'll do it the lazy way. I'll also check the oil, if it's very dirty I'll go and buy the fork oil and replace it.
Which brand do you recommend?? And how much money should I prepare? I know these are the noob questions. I can't do anything about it - I am a noob... :oops: :oops: :oops:
Quote from: elric8467 on October 17, 2007, 12:06:53 PM
I guess my real question was to those who have done it, how they like and so forth.
O I C
I bought some nylon rod back then, but ended up installing Progressives before I got around to trying spacers by themselves. So ... I'll have to defer to someone else on this one.
(http://bbburma.net/Smilies/lurker.gif)
Quote from: kml.krk on October 17, 2007, 01:09:37 PM
if it's very dirty I'll go and buy the fork oil and replace it.
Actually, it's the
replacing that's the hard part ... which is why you may want to leave it in for now, even if it's dirty. There is no drain hole in these forks, unless they added one on the later models. If you have some way to suck fluid from the bottom of a long tube, then you could give it a shot.... :icon_confused:
... otherwise, you're talking about supporting the front of the bike while you remove the front wheel (and a few other things) ... so you can get the forks off and turn them upside down to drain the old oil. This is why I suggested that you wait until you have a better reason to do everything at once.
Quote from: kml.krk on October 17, 2007, 01:09:37 PM
Which brand do you recommend?? And how much money should I prepare? I know these are the noob questions. I can't do anything about it - I am a noob... :oops: :oops: :oops:
Hmmmm. I don't have a favorite brand, but here are some of the listings in the [Chaparral (http://chaparral-racing.com)] catalog for 10W oil. I wouldn't be surprised if bike dealership prices are somewhat higher:
Bel-Ray $ 9 / liter
Maxima $ 6 / liter
Motorex Racing $10 / liter (?)
Motul Factory Line $13 / liter
Repsol (10W/20) $ 3.99 / .5 L
Spectro $10 / liter
Spectro SX $ 6.40 / 16 oz
YamaLube $ 5 / pint
yeah. I know - replacing isn't easy, that's why I thought I could do it the lazy way also :)
I'd use aquarium hose and just suck it to my mouth then spit it out... I'm just kiding :laugh: But I'd really use aquarium hose and very carefully suck the oil from the forks and before it gets to my mouth I'd pour it to some sort of container. I could also use veterinary syringe but I don't have any. Eventually If I have proper tools I'll do it the correct way.
Thanks very much for all your help! I owe you a beer :cheers: If we have any GS meeting on the east coast just remind me and I'll get you one. ;)
Installed them yesterday. I didn't have a chance to test them yet.
The oil was very clean so I didn't bother to change it. The oil level is the thing that bothers me a little. Progressive instructions say that any oil level below 140mm measured from top is ok. I checked mine - the distance from the top of the forks to the oil level was 260mm. It seems to be low to me but according to instructions it should be fine.
What do you think?? What difference does it actually make? Should I put some more oil in?
Did you do the lazy method? That fork oil measurement is made from the top of the fork when it is fully compressed and the springs removed.
OMG. I'm so dumb :laugh: I did that on decompressed forks (with one spring in) Holy cow. I just didn't see that in instructions.
Do you know how much gs forks compress? How many millimeters (or inches). If I knew that I could do the math and I would know the actual oil level.
Thanks
OK. I found that. Front suspension stroke: 120 mm (4.7 in)
so the math is easy: oil level measured when fork decompressed - front suspension stroke = actual oil level
let's put some numbers in the formula: 260mm - 120mm = 140mm
as simple as that.
cool.
thanks for help
Quote from: kml.krk on October 21, 2007, 01:14:39 PM
OK. I found that. Front suspension stroke: 120 mm (4.7 in)
so the math is easy: oil level measured when fork decompressed - front suspension stroke = actual oil level
let's put some numbers in the formula: 260mm - 120mm = 140mm
as simple as that.
cool.
thanks for help
Not so simple. Your oil level is higher than you think it is. The why is left as an exercise. :)
Hey Rich you guys located in OKC? If so would you shoot me the address. I make it over there every other month or so I could just pick them up.
Quote from: elric8467 on October 17, 2007, 10:50:30 AM
I 'd like to know what you guys think about spacers? I just put in a set of spacers, probably 2 1/2 inches and the difference is huge. Very stiff front forks, super responsive, if a little twitchy. Any one else done it?
I did about a few months ago. It is better than stock, but a band-aid fix. I want to hit track days out at hallet (local track) so the spacers and stock springs are coming out and I will pick up some stright rate springs.
Quote from: RichDesmond on October 23, 2007, 06:24:21 PM
Not so simple. Your oil level is higher than you think it is. The why is left as an exercise. :)
I don't know how you came to this conclusion but I'll stick to what I have done because I think it is correct - just think again about what I did. unless you wrote that to tease me ;)
cheers
KaMeL
Quote from: kml.krk on October 24, 2007, 10:33:10 AM
Quote from: RichDesmond on October 23, 2007, 06:24:21 PM
Not so simple. Your oil level is higher than you think it is. The why is left as an exercise. :)
I don't know how you came to this conclusion but I'll stick to what I have done because I think it is correct - just think again about what I did. unless you wrote that to tease me ;)
cheers
KaMeL
No teasing, I'm serious. :) Your method works if the fork tube wall is infinitely thin. Since it's not, the volume displaced by the metal as it drops into the oil causes the level to rise. Not a huge effect, but it's definitely measurable.
Quote from: Oklahoma_Mike on October 24, 2007, 07:17:49 AM
Hey Rich you guys located in OKC? If so would you shoot me the address. I make it over there every other month or so I could just pick them up.
You gots mail. :)
Quote from: RichDesmond on October 24, 2007, 01:19:43 PM
No teasing, I'm serious. :) Your method works if the fork tube wall is infinitely thin. Since it's not, the volume displaced by the metal as it drops into the oil causes the level to rise. Not a huge effect, but it's definitely measurable.
I though about that :thumb:
but since the level of oil was acually little bit more than 260 I didn't bother to write 265 I just rounded it up to 260 for easyness of measurement ;)
I think I'll be fine the way it is right now
good catch though.
thanks
:cheers:
Quote from: kml.krk on October 24, 2007, 04:39:22 PM
Quote from: RichDesmond on October 24, 2007, 01:19:43 PM
No teasing, I'm serious. :) Your method works if the fork tube wall is infinitely thin. Since it's not, the volume displaced by the metal as it drops into the oil causes the level to rise. Not a huge effect, but it's definitely measurable.
I though about that :thumb:
but since the level of oil was acually little bit more than 260 I didn't bother to write 265 I just rounded it up to 260 for easyness of measurement ;)
I think I'll be fine the way it is right now
good catch though.
thanks
:cheers:
Yeah, it's probably only 5mm or so, not enough to really matter. :)
finally I took my bike for the test ride after progressives installation. It is a night and day difference!! I didn't ride much but I can tell you the difference is HUGE. It goes so smoothly and nicely over any uneven road pavements (holes) and feels very stable and controlable. Taking the turns is easier and you feel you have control over the bike not the bike having control over you.
modification worth the money!! one of the best bungs for the buck for GS.
Nevermind... decided to go with sonic spring 80kg.
Quote from: RichDesmond on October 24, 2007, 01:19:43 PM
Quote from: kml.krk on October 24, 2007, 10:33:10 AM
Quote from: RichDesmond on October 23, 2007, 06:24:21 PM
Not so simple. Your oil level is higher than you think it is. The why is left as an exercise. :)
I don't know how you came to this conclusion but I'll stick to what I have done because I think it is correct - just think again about what I did. unless you wrote that to tease me ;)
cheers
KaMeL
No teasing, I'm serious. :) Your method works if the fork tube wall is infinitely thin. Since it's not, the volume displaced by the metal as it drops into the oil causes the level to rise. Not a huge effect, but it's definitely measurable.
Just to get this clear in my mind, if I replace the springs the "Lazy" way, what is the measurement of the oil level from the top uncompressed with the spring and spacer in place? Also does it matter how the spring goes in and does the washer go on top of the spring and the spacer goes on top of the washer? We have a 2000 E. I would like to do this today but still don't have all the pieces of information yet.
Thanks to all
Quote from: JerGStwinguy on December 09, 2007, 12:18:40 PMJust to get this clear in my mind, if I replace the springs the "Lazy" way, what is the measurement of the oil level from the top uncompressed with the spring and spacer in place?
I'm not sure that anyone has ever bothered to take (or at least report) this measurement. IIRC, the oil level measurement for the stock springs is 99mm from the top of the tube ... but that's taken with the tube vertical and compressed, and BEFORE the spring is inserted.
But I still think you can use this information to your advantage. Check the info pamphlet that comes in the box with your Progressive springs, but I believe the same measurement for the Progressives is something like 124mm, for a difference of 25mm.
Assuming that you're planning to work on one fork at a time, I suggest that you:
- Remove the stock spring VERY slowly, letting as much oil as possible run off the spring as it comes out.
- Measure the oil level in the fork with the spring removed. The easiest way I can think of would be to slide a metal rule into the fork, with the upper edge of the rule held against the front of the fork wall. When you think you've gone far enough, note the marking at the lip of the fork. Pull the ruler out, read the oil level on one edge of the ruler and write it down.
- Use your method of choice to remove ~25mm (1 inch) of oil. Check the level by using the SAME ruler method as before. (Whether you previously read the oil level from the lower edge of the ruler or the upper edge, do the same thing again.)
Quote from: JerGStwinguy on December 09, 2007, 12:18:40 PMAlso does it matter how the spring goes in and does the washer go on top of the spring and the spacer goes on top of the washer?
It doesn't really matter whether the "heavy" part of the spring goes in first or not.
You got the sequence right: spring, then washer, then spacer, then cap. :thumb:
Just opened up my shocks tonight to check oil level and found I already had progressive springs installed. Nice little surprise eh? Turned out the PO, didnt cut and reinstall the 1" spacer, so I went and made some that are 1.25", just a bit oversized to get some more preload. Much stiffer now, the bike can actually wheelie just because I installed the spacer, the suspension would unload to much before. Now I can put off buying straight rate springs, but in the long run I still plan to get them.
Quote from: Kerry on December 09, 2007, 10:57:31 PM
Quote from: JerGStwinguy on December 09, 2007, 12:18:40 PMJust to get this clear in my mind, if I replace the springs the "Lazy" way, what is the measurement of the oil level from the top uncompressed with the spring and spacer in place?
I'm not sure that anyone has ever bothered to take (or at least report) this measurement. IIRC, the oil level measurement for the stock springs is 99mm from the top of the tube ... but that's taken with the tube vertical and compressed, and BEFORE the spring is inserted.
But I still think you can use this information to your advantage. Check the info pamphlet that comes in the box with your Progressive springs, but I believe the same measurement for the Progressives is something like 124mm, for a difference of 25mm.
Assuming that you're planning to work on one fork at a time, I suggest that you:- Remove the stock spring VERY slowly, letting as much oil as possible run off the spring as it comes out.
- Measure the oil level in the fork with the spring removed. The easiest way I can think of would be to slide a metal rule into the fork, with the upper edge of the rule held against the front of the fork wall. When you think you've gone far enough, note the marking at the lip of the fork. Pull the ruler out, read the oil level on one edge of the ruler and write it down.
- Use your method of choice to remove ~25mm (1 inch) of oil. Check the level by using the SAME ruler method as before. (Whether you previously read the oil level from the lower edge of the ruler or the upper edge, do the same thing again.)
Quote from: JerGStwinguy on December 09, 2007, 12:18:40 PMAlso does it matter how the spring goes in and does the washer go on top of the spring and the spacer goes on top of the washer?
It doesn't really matter whether the "heavy" part of the spring goes in first or not.
You got the sequence right: spring, then washer, then spacer, then cap. :thumb:
Well I ended up doing it the right way and actually compressed the forks, I did them at the same time. The whole process was really easy, it was recommended by progressive from the literature that I got that the level was 5.5 inches from the top compressed. There was maybe a 1/2 in too much oil in each leg. Fork oil looked fresh too. Man what a difference! I weigh 265 and didnt bottom out at all. Now all I have to do for Momma's bike is change out the petcock. It suffers from running in the prime mode syndrome. Me thinks that the problem lies in the diaphragm but you cant just buy that piece. So I bought a new one, just haven't wanted to strip the body work off to replace it yet.
Thanks
Jer
Quote from: JerGStwinguy on December 10, 2007, 10:24:30 PMWell I ended up doing it the right way [...] The whole process was really easy [...] Man what a difference!
Congrats ... good job! :thumb: