I'm in the middle of putting a new chain on but I cant figure out how to remove the old one. There is sposed to be a master link or something according to the manual but I dont see the lil outide connector that distinguises it from the rest. Am I just sposed to get some bolt cutters out and go at it? Its a 93' w/ 16k I doubt its the org. chain. Any help is great!

-ash

If there is no masterlink on the old chain you will have to cut it off or remove the swing-arm. If the new one has a masterlink then just cut the old one off with a die-grinder at the pins on the outside plate (at one of the plates). Love the fine little G and the fine forum.

C.......

Ok, nevermind guys. I'm too impatient to wait for a solution. I think the only two would be eaither breaking out the dremel or prying the links appart. As it appears there is no master link in this chain I believe its the orig. I'm just gonna take it to a shop tmo and let them do it. I'm hoping it wont be too much $$$. A dremel would cost me 20 or 30 bux so if its in that price range its all good.

-ash

got a hacksaw?  those work too.

Quote from: ashmanI'm just gonna take it to a shop tmo and let them do it. I'm hoping it wont be too much $$$. A dremel would cost me 20 or 30 bux so if its in that price range its all good.

Yeah, but then you end up with a mounted chain and no Dremel tool.  

[One hour later...]

OK ashman, you got me pegged.  When I hear that someone is going to spend money at the shop because they don't know how to do something, that puts me in gear.  I just HAD to set up some lights, a tripod, etc. out in the shed and take these shots for you.  It's OK if you still decide to have the work done at the shop, but I hope the following series helps someone somehow.

=========================================

You're gonna have to pretend with me a little bit, 'cause the photos were taken off the bike with my original, done-for chain.

Suppose you had a Dremel tool.  Find the long mandrel and the heavy-duty cutoff wheel that should come in the box:



Mount the mandrel in the Dremel tool and the wheel on the mandrel:



Select a target link and grind off the two riveted heads on its pins:



Make sure that you grind both of the pins on a SINGLE link, and not one pin each from two neighboring links.  Pop the sideplate off with a flathead screwdriver (and whatever else it takes):



Leaving the freed-up link in place, pull the old chain off of one of the pins, as shown below.

NOW ... pretend that the chain length on the left is the brand-new chain, and slip it over the available pin.  Spin the rear wheel in the appropriate direction to thread the new chain around both sprockets:



Now, pretend that everything you see in the photo below is NEW material - chain, master link, everything.

* Slip one pair of O-rings / X-rings / whatever-rings over the pins.
* Apply some of the supplied O-ring grease to the O-rings and the pins.
* Push the pins through the holes on either end of the new chain.
* Slip the other O-rings over the exposed ends of the pins, and apply a dab of grease.
* Push the new sideplate over the pins.

Notice how the sideplate doesn't slip all the way on?  Here comes the hardest part of the whole process - pushing the sideplate and the clip on:



It's no big deal if you have the right tool.  (See the Need advice on chain link pressing tool thread.)  But if you don't, you just need to get creative.

Here's a detail from Rema1000's vise-and-socket based "Sideplate Press Tool" photo.  (Used by permission ... I hope!   )  Rema says that you could probably get away with using 2 sockets only - against the sideplate that's being pressed on.



Other folks have used C-clamps, Vise-Grips, you name it.  The idea is to press the sideplate on far enough that the grooves on the master link pins are exposed.  (Back up 3 photos to see the grooves.)  At that point you can manhandle the masterlink clip over the first pin ... and then use pliers to pop it on the rest of the way.  (Put one jaw against the NON-split end of the clip, and the other against the opposite pin, and SQUEEZE.)

IMPORTANT NOTE: Make sure to mount the clip so that the NON-split end meets up with the sprockets FIRST as the engine drives the rear wheel around.

Adjust the rear wheel, tighten the axle nut, replace the cotter pin, and you're DONE.  And it only took about the same amount of time as it would to ride down to the shop, let alone wait for the job to be done, and for the cashier to lighten your wallet.

Now ... what ELSE can you use that Dremel tool for...?  

WOW! Amasing Kerry, but shouldn't we install only non-master link chains? so we 'd need to remove the swing arm??? I think I read that in my Clymers Manual.

Kerry, you are a damn fine human being. Hey John, you got any more shirts? Send one to Kerry and bill me. Seriously.

you all start to see how tough life can get when you live around the corner from Kerry...  you think I can ever hope to live up to that standard?

*long suffering sigh*

ok, ok, so I'm not getting any sympathy.  Seriously, though, master link chains will work fine.  there is a slight chance that something will happen, but I'd say the chances are pretty slim.  I've put 6,000 miles or so on my new chain, and I used a master link chain.  I know Kerry has one on his bike too.

You could take off the sprocket cover and the rear wheel and change it that way as well, of course... but it's a little more hassle.  Whichever is your preference.

You guys are killing me!  

Quote from: TRshouldn't we install only non-master link chains? so we 'd need to remove the swing arm???

TR, as I look through the catalogs I don't see any way to order a continuous chain.  (Am I wrong?  )  As far as I can tell, you order the same chain either way, and then get a rivet-style master link if that's the way you want to go.

I ordered a D.I.D. O-ring chain and a clip-style master link.  When the chain arrived, I discovered that it comes with a clip-style master link in the box ... so now I have an extra master link.  (Which appears in the photos above.)

So if you want a "continuous chain" you get it by going the rivet-style link route.  The GOOD news here is that you don't need to remove your swing arm; just follow the photo series above.  If you don't want to spring for a Dremel tool just:

* Hacksaw through the middle of an old link.
* Pull the old chain off.
* Remove the front sprocket cover.
* Thread the new chain on by hand.

The BAD news is that you need a special tool to rivet the heads of the pins on that last link.  To my knowledge, the top-of-the-line tool is the Motion Pro Jumbo Chain Tool, which does everything.  The runner-up is probably their Chain Breaker & Riveting Tool.  Unfortunately, both of these tools are expensive!  Well worth it if you run a shop, but otherwise...?

Some of the other items on Motion Pro's Chain Tools page are alternatives to Rema1000's vise & socket solution, or C-clamps or Vise Grips.  And they're WAY portable ... they should fit in your under-seat tool kit.  But make sure you buy them elsewhere ... for less!   )

Finally, richard is right.  I've put about 9,000 miles on my clip-style master link O-ring chain so far.  My original, endless, X-ring chain lasted about 23,000 miles and I'm expecting to get 15,000+ out of this O-ring unit.

EDIT: Updated the links

Wow Kerry!   Well I didn't do anything as of yet. I'm at my parents house today and I'll prob. borrow one of there dremel tools. Only thing I'm not to sure about is how to connect that piece of metal that goes on the outside. Seems a little tricky to me. Anyway I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the great pics and info. That post should be up on the how to board for sure.  

-ash

Thanks Kerry, as my chain gets older, it has 17,000 Kms now, I'm starting to wonder how much life it remains since I have neglected the chain lub a little, I should have lubbed it 17 times now, and I guess hardly have 10 done.

Quote from: ashmanOnly thing I'm not to sure about is how to connect that piece of metal that goes on the outside. Seems a little tricky to me.

Yep, I should have been more clear.

You see how the hole in the master link clip is wider on the left side than on the right?  Once the sideplate is pushed on you should be able to drop the wider end of the hole over the right-side pin.

Now you need to slide the clip sideways - from right to left - until the split end of the clip snaps over the left pin.

Pretend with me one more time.  In the photo below (of my currently-mounted, filthy chain) pretend that the clip is not yet snapped onto the left pin ... that the large end of the hole is still centered over the right-side pin.

OK, now get some hefty pliers and apply pressure across the two marked spots.  It may not be easy (depending on how well you pushed the sideplate on), but this oughta do it for ya.



Good Luck!

EDIT: I noticed that Motion Pro now offers special Master Link Pliers.  I bet you could make your own with some old pliers and a grinding wheel. 

Quote from: TRas my chain gets older, it has 17,000 Kms now, I'm starting to wonder how much life it remains since I have neglected the chain lub a little

I know what you mean.  When I "cleaned" my chain last Saturday I could hear a lot of "gritty" sounds as I turned the rear wheel.  That means that I haven't been keeping up on my cleaning.  

All that dirt from the road will serve as a nice set of tiny grinders and will wear down the chain a lot faster than if it were clean.  They can get into the RED areas on the diagram on THIS PAGE.  It doesn't take too much imagination to see where it all leads.

Chains tend to do a fine job of wearing themselves down even without help from the dirt....  :x  I guess I'll have to pop my master link off soon and remove the chain to do a REAL cleaning - with a toothbrush and kerosene like Juanfer did this week.

Incidently, I found that large (but not too large) angle plyers worked best for me.  I could get the clip on and off easily... once I figured out to use that tool. =]

Good luck!

I've changed my own chain too.  I used the hacksaw method the get the old one off.  Was lucky enough then to be able to connect the old and new chain to feed through and finally joined the new one up with a master link.

On the split link / rivet question.  I asked my local bike shop.  They said that road bikes tend to have a riveted master link, dirt bikes go for the split link option.  I figured if the split link will stand up to the abuse of being used off road, it's not gonna get anywhere near that abuse on the street.  If it was a 100bhp+ race bike I may think differently, but not the GS.

Do the work yourself, you never know when knowing how to do something can come in handy!

This thread, in addition to answering the question, illustrates two things perfectly.
1) You cannot have too many tools.
2) The big advantage of a master-link is that you can use your old chain to position your new one.
Another triumph for the all-knowing ones.

Just changed my chain today.  Got an X-Ring chain (Parts Unlimited) and a JT sprocket (16T version) to replace my old chain that is siezed in several spots, due to neglect, I must confess :mrgreen:.

My old chain had one of those clip-style master link like in Kerry's picture.  I have no idea when the old chain was installed--it came with the bike (89 version) when I bought it about 10000 miles and 8 years ago.  Due to the unusually many posts recently about chains, I knew exactly what to do.  The old chain came out in no time with a plier, and the sprocket area is not bad at all--only one very black (and dead) moth other than the usual gunk and seeds.  All cleaned out with liberal application of WD-40 and paper towel.

The Parts Unlimited X-ring (came with a clip-style master link) is the cheapest X-ring I could find.  I used the vise-clamp method to install the master link.

I got the sprocket and chain from Dennis Kirk.  Surprisingly, Dennis Kirk had the cheapest combo for that--everything came out to be a tad over $70 after $6 shipping to New Jersey.

Just my $0.02 and data point.

Love the infinitely serviceable little twin and the forum, too.
e........

:mrgreen: