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FAQ AND KERRY

Started by bcutrufelli, October 27, 2004, 07:06:06 AM

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bcutrufelli

Wow those step by step pictures are awesome even a dummy like me can figure it out.  I cant say enough how good that series of pics is.  I know I am going to start working on my bike soon I wish I had a digital camera to document some things wow again all oif the how tos should be that good.

bcutrufelli


The Buddha

I still cant post in that FAQ forum but... some bits of caution...
Dont use a torque wrench to break fasteners loose... the thing is a bit more delicate than that, dont hit the axle with a hammer to get it out... if you must put the nut back in and then hit, else use a mallet. Also pushing the calipers back into their bores may be better than removing brake pads... but never done rear rotor ever... so no idea.
Cool.
Srinath.
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I run a business based on other people's junk.
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Kerry

Now you know why I still want to add explanatory text!  :)

TORQUE WRENCH: I also included a photo that shows using a regular Allen wrench to extract the rotor fasteners.  But the extra leverage can be necessary sometimes, especially if it's the first time the fasteners have ever been loosened.  There have been a few fasteners (like front caliper mounting bolts) that were torqued so tight at the factory I thought I'd never get them off!  Besides, I like to see the actual factory torque values....

But you're right -- with a torque wrench you never want to "give it your all" on the first go.  Be gentle ... ease down on it until it moves.  (Notice that I used my 3/8" drive wrench rather than my 1/2" drive one.  :roll: )


HAMMER: Guilty as charged.  I plan to add text about using something softer.  But again, I don't give it a mighty whack - I just tap until enough of the axle is showing on the other end for me to grab it with my fingers (as shown in the subsequent photo).

Since it's on the centerstand, the weight of the bike is off the axle, so the taps are actually pretty light.  In any case, with the end of the axle being chamfered as it is, there's no way I'm going to prevent the nut from going back on because of "reshaping" the end.  Is that the main reason for using "gentler" methods?


BRAKE PADS: The only reason I removed the rear brake pads was to replace them.  (Perhaps you missed the photo comparing the new pads to the old?)

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Thanks for the feedback, Srinath!  :thumb:
Yellow 1999 GS500E
Kerry's Suzuki GS500 Page

TheGoodGuy

Quote from: seshadri_srinathI still cant post in that FAQ forum but... some bits of caution...
Dont use a torque wrench to break fasteners loose... the thing is a bit more delicate than that, dont hit the axle with a hammer to get it out... if you must put the nut back in and then hit, else use a mallet. Also pushing the calipers back into their bores may be better than removing brake pads... but never done rear rotor ever... so no idea.
Cool.
Srinath.

Okay you should be now be able to post. I guess even with you being a mod, it wouldnt let you until I set you guys specifically to be a mod of that forum. Admins are on a different group hence i never saw the problem.

Pablo should also have access now.
'01 GS500. Mods: Katana Shock, Progessive Springs, BobB's V&H  Advancer Clone, JeffD's LED tail lights & LED licence plate bolt running lights, flanders superbike bars, magnet under the bike. Recent mods: Rejet with 20/62.5/145, 3 shims on needle, K&N Lunch box.

Kerry

OK, the text has been added.  I still need to add the torque setting values -- which are in my manuals at home.
Yellow 1999 GS500E
Kerry's Suzuki GS500 Page

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