News:

Need a manual?  Buy a Clymer manual Here

Main Menu

Runs like poo...

Started by Focer, April 16, 2005, 11:34:27 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

Focer

I recently rejeted (20/65/147.5), installed a k&n, and a WileyCo but, my bike seems to run kinda shity now and when its cold it coughs.. alot. I also did 3.5 turns out on the carbs. What should I check for and whats going on?

Thank you for all your replys!

Focer

No one? Nothing?

If it helps it also seems really sluggish from a stop and flatens out at high rpm.s... :?

scratch

<Sgt. Shultz voice> I know noth-thING! </Sgt. Shultz voice>
The motorcycle is no longer the hobby, the skill has become the hobby.

Power does not compare to skill.  What good is power without the skill to use it?

QuoteOriginally posted by Wintermute on BayAreaRidersForum.com
good judgement trumps good skills every time.

davipu

side ?  was that your bike on CL?

mjm

Quote from: FocerI recently rejeted (20/65/147.5), installed a k&n, and a WileyCo but, my bike seems to run kinda shity now and when its cold it coughs.. alot. I also did 3.5 turns out on the carbs. What should I check for and whats going on?

Thank you for all your replys!

Choke

The Buddha

Bad when cold = lean, maybe your floats are lower than they should be, or  somewhere you got air entering. I dunno man 01+ bike ...
Cool.
Srinath.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
I run a business based on other people's junk.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Focer

Yea I figured that I need to check the floats. Tomarrow I think I'll do that.

Its kinda funny, It doest feel like the choke is on...

Focer

...and yes that is my bike on craigslist.

mjm

Quote from: FocerYea I figured that I need to check the floats. Tomarrow I think I'll do that.

Its kinda funny, It doest feel like the choke is on...

You said it ran bad cold - I meant leave the choke ON longer - unless you are saying that it also runs bad after a warm-up.

Frost

I have 22.5/65/147.5 K&N pod and wileyco...
so basically same setup as you...

by shitty...do you mean boggy?...lag in throttle response?...what exactly do you mean?

I have mine 3.75 turns out...and it runs fine...i think all i need is a carb synch...
wileyco, K&N pod, rejet 22.5/65/147.5, F16 flyscreen, progressive springs, 15t front sprocket...more to come: katana shock

Focer

Ok I just hopped on my bike for the first time in a few days. It does seem like its running lean. I was on the way to work today going 70 on the freeway and I started to feel like I was running out of fuel. Got it up to 80 or so but, it didnt seem like it wanted to go any faster than that...

Also I let her warm up for a little longer, seemed to help a bit but it just takes longer to warm up now than before the mods.

I checked my float hights and they dont look like they are just right. The fuel came up to about half way up the bowl. How do I adjust the floats? Also how do I sync. the carbs?

Gleanerizer

Quote from: Focer...
I checked my float hights and they dont look like they are just right. The fuel came up to about half way up the bowl. How do I adjust the floats? Also how do I sync. the carbs?
That's most of your problem right there if not all of it.  That's WAY low.  If you have Allen screws on your float bowls, you can tweak your float heights without taking the carbs out (though it requires some finger gymnastics and trial-and-error, it's still easier).  I'm going to assume you have stock screws on those bowls, though, so you're going to have to take the carbs out, unscrew the bowls, and bend around the  metal tangs that're attached to the plastic floats until the floats rest at the specified height.

The '02 carb floats look nothing like the floats in the Clymer, as I rudely found out recently.  Once I guessed the float height (the specs in the Clymer seemed wrong), I put the bowls back on with Allen screws, put the bike back together, and checked the float heights again.  I was on the money on the left carb but too high on the right.  So--this is tricky but can be done--without taking the carbs out, I drained the right carb and took the bowl off, held the float with one hand, and tweaked the tang with a tiny computer-size screwdriver to make the float close the needle valve at a lower height.  Then I put the bowl back on using two diagonally opposite screws (makes a good enough seal for a quick test), and checked float height again.  I had to repeat this two more times, but with some patience I got it exactly right and my bike runs great now.  I dunno about your jetting situation (go ask Srianth) but your floats are definitely contributing to the problem at least.

Edit: Here's how high your float heights should be, courtesy of Rema1000.
2002 GS500--the fastest year!
2005 SV650S--faster than the fastest year GS!

The Buddha

1/2 bowl ... will it even run ??? OK set it by bending the float tang. And you'd need to bend away from the seat.
Synch is either vacuum with motor running or eyeball with carbs off ...
Cool.
Srinath.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
I run a business based on other people's junk.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Focer

-DamnI really wish I had replaced with alen bolts when I rejetted! Makes life a little harder now...
-Yea still running. Will it cause damage if I ride it like this?
-Also would it help to run it in PRI?

Gleanerizer

Running in PRI will just allow the gas to come up to the pitifully low float level you have ( :) ) without the engine running, so no, it will not help.  If you've already taken the screws off the bowls once, you probably won't have so much of an ordeal getting them off this time, but still I'd recommend replacing them with Allens--much easier to work with.  For 2001+ GS carbs, you'll need 4mm Allen (aka "hex") machine screws, 12 mm long, and a 3mm Allen wrench.  Now fix dem floats.

You know what would make this job easier but I'm not sure it even exists?  A 3mm Hex (Allen) key 1/4" ratchet drive bit, along with a small 1/4" drive ratchet with a small swing angle.  That would make it much easier to remove the carb bowls without even taking them off the bike if you get the floats wrong on the first try.  But if you have the same luck finding tools that I do, you're going to have to use a hex key, which I don't think can be done by anyone with hands bigger than mine (I can just barely do it).  Best solution: get it right the first time.  Best of luck to you.

And yes, I'm having a slow day at work. :P
2002 GS500--the fastest year!
2005 SV650S--faster than the fastest year GS!

Gleanerizer

Quote from: Focer
-Yea still running. Will it cause damage if I ride it like this?
Hmmm, seems I ignored this part.  I doubt you'll do any serious harm, might make you need spark plugs sooner or something... :dunno:  Of course, I'm wondering why it's running at all with floats that low--I was about 3/16" short on both bowls and my bike was running like S H I T... stalling at stops, maybe 1/3 less power, etc.
2002 GS500--the fastest year!
2005 SV650S--faster than the fastest year GS!

SMF spam blocked by CleanTalk